Got a Danner 3 any warnings?

psychofunk · 02-25-2003, 12:24 AM

Besides this

http://www.procooling.com/articles/h...___3_31_00.php

is there anything that I should be aware of with Danner's? For example is it only good for 24\7 operation. If I connect it with my PSU to turn off and on will it die (because of the on/off operation-over time of course). Anything? Thanks.

redleader · 03-01-2003, 04:39 PM

I've heard they're pretty good. I haven't used one though. I know of a few people who have been running them for years with no trouble, so it should be pretty safe.

pHaestus · 03-01-2003, 05:32 PM

Careful with brass barbs on the inlet area. I would suggest nylon only and also use a metal hose clamp to try and reduce stress on the plastic inlet piece. Many people had them crack due to this (me included). A little JB Weld often solves the problem though.

Can O' Beans · 03-01-2003, 11:47 PM

Yes, the inlet & outlets are a little on the weaker side (in my opinion). Just go easy on it & you should have no problems.

THey also have been known to leak between the impeller housing & main body, like noted in the article. I haven't seen it, but some people seal this with a bit of silicone.

I have a 500gph one & haven't had any problems with it yet.

I did try the "mod" for these pumps. You're supposed to glue the impeller onto the shaft to prevent movement. This didn't work at all (thank god I only used silicone). The "slack" is there to help get the pump started. WIth the impeller siliconed in place on the shaft, the pump didn't want to start. The people who successfulyl did this must have been lucky and got just the right positioning...

02-25-2003, 12:24 AM	#1
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	Got a Danner 3 any warnings? Besides this http://www.procooling.com/articles/h...___3_31_00.php is there anything that I should be aware of with Danner's? For example is it only good for 24\7 operation. If I connect it with my PSU to turn off and on will it die (because of the on/off operation-over time of course). Anything? Thanks.

03-01-2003, 04:39 PM	#2
redleader Thermophile Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az Posts: 1,264	I've heard they're pretty good. I haven't used one though. I know of a few people who have been running them for years with no trouble, so it should be pretty safe.

03-01-2003, 05:32 PM	#3
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	Careful with brass barbs on the inlet area. I would suggest nylon only and also use a metal hose clamp to try and reduce stress on the plastic inlet piece. Many people had them crack due to this (me included). A little JB Weld often solves the problem though.

03-01-2003, 11:47 PM	#4
Can O' Beans Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Pa - USA Posts: 264	Yes, the inlet & outlets are a little on the weaker side (in my opinion). Just go easy on it & you should have no problems. THey also have been known to leak between the impeller housing & main body, like noted in the article. I haven't seen it, but some people seal this with a bit of silicone. I have a 500gph one & haven't had any problems with it yet. I did try the "mod" for these pumps. You're supposed to glue the impeller onto the shaft to prevent movement. This didn't work at all (thank god I only used silicone). The "slack" is there to help get the pump started. WIth the impeller siliconed in place on the shaft, the pump didn't want to start. The people who successfulyl did this must have been lucky and got just the right positioning...

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