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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2
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I've been researching, documenting, and thinking some more. I am inviting some feedback on what I plan on purchasing.
My current setup is this: Aopen HX08 XP2100+ A7N8X Dlx 2 cdroms 2 HDDs My major concerns are 1.)noise, 2.) price, 3.) temps. I looked at the 'newbie' kits ( aquarius / iceberg systems ) and honestly I don't see the benefit when I can get virtually same temps via air. So my plan is this: Via Aqua 1300 - 55 Maze 3 Waterblock - 70 1/2" ID Hoses - 8 Chevette Heatercore - < 25? - used likely Total under $200 CAN dollars. Reservoir unknown at this point, but a minor detail. (4) Panaflo 120mm volt modded to 'supposedly' produce 19dBa @ 37cfms ( 2 for rad - push/pull, and 1 exhaust / 1 intake ). I'm aiming for something around 10°C above ambient. |
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#2 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Massachusetts U.S.A.
Posts: 24
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Hello All, Looks good Ben Jr. you might want to take a look at the Hagen Laguna pumps, they're made up your way and have a pretty good reputation. I'm using their PT-305 Utility/Statuary #2 pump 810L/214G @ 0', 130cm/4.26 Water column, 11 watts, cost me $35.00 US, very quiet. They have more powerful pumps as well, but this is enough for mine. Check in the pond section under products. Regards, Szandor
http://www.hagen.com/canada/english/ |
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#3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: home
Posts: 365
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Are you planning to overclock or overvolt your system? If not, then based on your own criteria the proper answer is air cooling. Certainly there's nothing wrong with water cooling, but for stock systems the only real justifications include "something new to try", "geek factor", etc. Top notch heat sinks will keep your processor quite happy and stable without producing any more noise than a fan blowing on a radiator.
As for "suggestions", an inside joke would be, "Choose a different user name". LOLOL. |
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#4 | |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Posts: 2,371.493,106
Posts: 4,440
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I would add MUCH more but it is not fair to kick a cripple lol |
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#5 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 381
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Come on guys, that's not very nice...
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__________________
Michael E. Robbins M.A.Sc. Candidate, University of Toronto 12.1 GHz of AMD's finest (17.7 GHz total) crunching proudly for the AMDMB.com Killer Frogs SETI BOINC: Dual Opteron 246s (Iwill DK8N) | XP2800+ (Shuttle SN41G2) | 3x XP2400+ (ASUS A7N266-vm) SETI BOINC: 2x P4 2.8E (ASUS P4R800-vm) | Crunching 24/7 |
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#6 |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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Yeah... What's wrong with "Ben"?
![]() Otherwise, this system is A-OK. Nice to see a noob get it right the first time. ![]() |
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#7 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Posts: 2,371.493,106
Posts: 4,440
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Ben
at a young age you were spirited away from your native world this universe is described in "The World of Null A", by AE van Vogt |
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#8 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: France
Posts: 1,221
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Ben Jr: if your first criterion is noise, you'll have to change a few bits.
- start by running at stock. - fans: get down to *one* fan only. 120mm Papst fans are even more silent (get the 4412 N/2GL). Undervolt it. Multiple fans in parallel *always* produce more noise, and produce extra noise due to resonant frequencies. - get rid of *any* other fan in your case. Mod the PSU with a silent 80mm such as the 8412, and take a good PSU to begin with (Zalman, Antec TruePower..) - make sure the airflow produced by your only fan cools down critical elements (HDDs for instance). If your case is closed make sure it passes over the mobo. - then and only after you've done that, start to overclock / volt mod etc. That's the way to get a 'rather silent' system. Don't worry about the singly fan on the rad. With a good rad it's not problematic - you'll still get good temps. |
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#9 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Posts: 2,371.493,106
Posts: 4,440
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wait a second here gmat
Null A Ben just said it was "A-OK" ??? Ben Jr listen to gmat your namesake is adrift withoud a paddle, he is however quite expert in posting |
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#10 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: France
Posts: 1,221
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Ben Jr: Ah i just saw you've got an A7N8X.
Pop that crappy NB heatsink off. Replace it with something useful, or at least lap it and use thermal paste. Or with the money you'll save on fans, buy a NB waterblock. Since you're buying at DDen - take one of those wonderful Z blocks, and 2 Y splitters. You'll thank me later when you get stable 200+MHz on the FSB... |
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#11 |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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Without an overclock, the base description is "spot on".
If you're shooting for an OC, then follow gmat. |
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#12 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Posts: 2,371.493,106
Posts: 4,440
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nope
without an overclock, do listen to myv65's comments remeber, reliability is inversely related to complexity simple is always better Last edited by BillA; 03-27-2003 at 04:19 PM. |
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#13 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 381
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__________________
Michael E. Robbins M.A.Sc. Candidate, University of Toronto 12.1 GHz of AMD's finest (17.7 GHz total) crunching proudly for the AMDMB.com Killer Frogs SETI BOINC: Dual Opteron 246s (Iwill DK8N) | XP2800+ (Shuttle SN41G2) | 3x XP2400+ (ASUS A7N266-vm) SETI BOINC: 2x P4 2.8E (ASUS P4R800-vm) | Crunching 24/7 |
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#14 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: SLO, CA
Posts: 837
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Skulemate:
That's mostly because the NB is not getting enough voltage to remain stable above 180FSB. A quick Vdd mod will solve that problem, however this is not for the "faint of heart" ![]()
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Athlon64 X2 4200+ @ 2.5Ghz (250FSB x 10) OCZ VX 1GB 4000 @ 250FSB (6-2-2-2 timmings) DFI LANParty nForce4 Ultra-D SCSI Raid 5 x (3) Cheetah 15K HDDs LSI Express 500 (128MB cache) OCZ PowerStream 520W PSU ATI X850XT PE (Stock) DTEK WhiteWater + DTEK Custom Radiator Eheim 1250 |
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#15 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 381
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Yeah, I realize that's probably the issue with my board, and when I get a chance I'm going to give the VDD mod a shot. But the fact still remains that there are some v1.04 boards that can't do 200FSB straight out of the box.
__________________
Michael E. Robbins M.A.Sc. Candidate, University of Toronto 12.1 GHz of AMD's finest (17.7 GHz total) crunching proudly for the AMDMB.com Killer Frogs SETI BOINC: Dual Opteron 246s (Iwill DK8N) | XP2800+ (Shuttle SN41G2) | 3x XP2400+ (ASUS A7N266-vm) SETI BOINC: 2x P4 2.8E (ASUS P4R800-vm) | Crunching 24/7 |
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#16 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2
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I'll prob follow some of the suggestions, and I'll look at that other pump as well.
I just changed boards actually and once I finish building my sisters PC, I'll exchange my 512 Crucial 2700 for some PC3200. My previous board was the A7V8X, and I was able to get a stable 2400Mhz from a XP2100+ off air. I haven't gotten the chance to overclock with the A7N8X since I always seem to be working, but I'll assume that I'll get the same. I might be swapping that cheesy HS off the NB with something else, its getting hot. |
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#17 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: U.S.A = Michigan
Posts: 1,243
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For the CPU I'd suggest the TC-4 over the Maze 3. And Gmat's NB advice is right on, get a water block or at least a Iceburg.
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