Powering pump w/ PS switch

CheeseBall · 05-19-2003, 10:31 PM

I opened up my Antec True550W today, and there are 4 male connectors on the switch. 2 ground and 2 "+" I think you call it. The 2 wires going to the switch are connected by going through the holes in the center of the male connectors and then being "soldered" to the stripped wires. The ONE wire goes through the TWO connectors (the grounds are in a column and so are the +s). So it will be tough to get some female connectors over them to power my pump. Has anyone done this w/ a similar PS? I guess I was just expecting something different and now I don't know what the best thing to do is.

If I decide not to try it I guess I will just rig up a switch and relay.

Thanks for any insight.

CheeseBall · 05-19-2003, 10:57 PM

The only way I see this working is stripping the end of my pump's power cable (duh), and wrapping each wire from the pump around the section of wire right in between the 2 male connectors of the same type (+ or -) on the switch. Then electrical taping around that.

The space around the switch is VERY cramped, and who knows, the solder stuff keeping the wires on the connectors might actually be some sort of insulation, but probably not.

Man I need a digital camera!

Cyco-Dude · 05-20-2003, 01:17 AM

it might be easier to just use a power plug from an old AT PSU and wire the pump into that (as outlined in PC's pump-wireing how-to). it'll save you the headache of fumbling around in your cramped PSU (and possibly screwing up).

also, liquid electrical tape is your friend. look for it at Ace Hardware and Discount Auto Parts as those are the only places that ive found some in. very good for those weird wiring jobs where vinyl electrical tape just isnt practical (or simply wont work / look good) or heat shrink tubing is impossible.

bigben2k · 05-20-2003, 07:37 AM

Agreed.

The pump relay outlined in pHaestus' article works fine, and if you wire in an outlet, you don't have to cut the pump's wiring at all, which is always preferable, IMO.

I mounted the circuit on a small PCB, then added standoffs so that I could make a nice and clean installation.

CheeseBall · 05-20-2003, 10:55 PM

cyco-dude, which article are you refering to? Please post a link. I'm not exactly sure how I would use an AT plug or which plug you mean (external 110VAC plug, mobo plug, or neither?).

Also, after reading pH's article, you wouldn't need to wire a ground wire to the molex when tapping into the PS because most pumps that I know of don't have a ground anyways. Correct?

I would really rather not use a relay because I see no reason to have two power plugs going out of the case. I already voided my warrenty anyways... I would just rather get the power from my PS.

bigben2k · 05-21-2003, 10:03 AM

http://www.procooling.com/articles/h..._pumps_-_p.php

If you wire in the pump relay to the power outlet inside the PSU (as outlined in pHaestus' article), then you won't have two outlets on the PC case.

If you want to avoid a relay, you might consider a solid-state relay.

If your pump does not have a ground wire, then you can exclude it, but you should make sure that nothing metalic on the pump is going to short out against the case. This is usually not a problem with polarized plug/outlet, if you wire it correctly. A multimeter comes in handy here.

CheeseBall · 05-21-2003, 10:33 PM

I have read pH's article, but I'm not exactly sure I get what you mean bigben. In pH's article it LOOKS like you're wiring to the outside of the PS plug. Are you tapping into the PS plug from the inside in the same manner as you would when using the switch?

Thanks for the help,
Also, could someone explain more on how you would set up the diode thing (when using a relay), and if you all think it's really neccessary. My PS is worth about $100, so if it's at all a good idea I'll do it.

bigben2k · 05-22-2003, 07:46 AM

No, in pHaestus' article, there's a power cable soldered to the inside of the PSU's power connector.

The diode is necessary, yes! Whenever you have a coil in a circuit, and there's power going through it, it will actually send out a surge, when the power supply is turned off. It's a switching effect. The diode prevents this current from passing through, into the PSU, and potentially damaging sensitive components, and that protection extends to all other components connected to the same power line (usually +12).

The key here is to select a relay that has good rated contacts, and draws minimal power for the coil. I found mine at www.allelectronics.com , and mounted it all on a small PCB, then added standoffs, so that I can mount it nicely inside my case. I mounted a power outlet right on the same PCB, so the pump can simply plug into it.

CheeseBall · 05-22-2003, 07:56 PM

how much skill does it take to solder it? Maybe I could find someone to help me out soldering.

bigben2k · 05-22-2003, 08:29 PM

Basic soldering skills are all that's needed. The problem is that it might be tricky to get to the leads, depending on the PSU layout.

In mine, I'd have to solder it on one of 4 PCB (printed circuit board), and that would be very easy.

(Of course I won't be doing that, hehe!

)

05-19-2003, 10:31 PM	#1
CheeseBall Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Colorado Posts: 176	Powering pump w/ PS switch I opened up my Antec True550W today, and there are 4 male connectors on the switch. 2 ground and 2 "+" I think you call it. The 2 wires going to the switch are connected by going through the holes in the center of the male connectors and then being "soldered" to the stripped wires. The ONE wire goes through the TWO connectors (the grounds are in a column and so are the +s). So it will be tough to get some female connectors over them to power my pump. Has anyone done this w/ a similar PS? I guess I was just expecting something different and now I don't know what the best thing to do is. If I decide not to try it I guess I will just rig up a switch and relay. Thanks for any insight.

05-20-2003, 01:17 AM	#3
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	it might be easier to just use a power plug from an old AT PSU and wire the pump into that (as outlined in PC's pump-wireing how-to). it'll save you the headache of fumbling around in your cramped PSU (and possibly screwing up). also, liquid electrical tape is your friend. look for it at Ace Hardware and Discount Auto Parts as those are the only places that ive found some in. very good for those weird wiring jobs where vinyl electrical tape just isnt practical (or simply wont work / look good) or heat shrink tubing is impossible. Last edited by Cyco-Dude; 05-20-2003 at 10:24 AM.

05-20-2003, 07:37 AM	#4
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Agreed. The pump relay outlined in pHaestus' article works fine, and if you wire in an outlet, you don't have to cut the pump's wiring at all, which is always preferable, IMO. I mounted the circuit on a small PCB, then added standoffs so that I could make a nice and clean installation. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

05-21-2003, 10:03 AM	#6
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	http://www.procooling.com/articles/h..._pumps_-_p.php If you wire in the pump relay to the power outlet inside the PSU (as outlined in pHaestus' article), then you won't have two outlets on the PC case. If you want to avoid a relay, you might consider a solid-state relay. If your pump does not have a ground wire, then you can exclude it, but you should make sure that nothing metalic on the pump is going to short out against the case. This is usually not a problem with polarized plug/outlet, if you wire it correctly. A multimeter comes in handy here. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

05-22-2003, 07:46 AM	#8
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	No, in pHaestus' article, there's a power cable soldered to the inside of the PSU's power connector. The diode is necessary, yes! Whenever you have a coil in a circuit, and there's power going through it, it will actually send out a surge, when the power supply is turned off. It's a switching effect. The diode prevents this current from passing through, into the PSU, and potentially damaging sensitive components, and that protection extends to all other components connected to the same power line (usually +12). The key here is to select a relay that has good rated contacts, and draws minimal power for the coil. I found mine at www.allelectronics.com , and mounted it all on a small PCB, then added standoffs, so that I can mount it nicely inside my case. I mounted a power outlet right on the same PCB, so the pump can simply plug into it. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

05-19-2003, 10:57 PM	#2
CheeseBall Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Colorado Posts: 176	The only way I see this working is stripping the end of my pump's power cable (duh), and wrapping each wire from the pump around the section of wire right in between the 2 male connectors of the same type (+ or -) on the switch. Then electrical taping around that. The space around the switch is VERY cramped, and who knows, the solder stuff keeping the wires on the connectors might actually be some sort of insulation, but probably not. Man I need a digital camera!

05-20-2003, 10:55 PM	#5
CheeseBall Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Colorado Posts: 176	cyco-dude, which article are you refering to? Please post a link. I'm not exactly sure how I would use an AT plug or which plug you mean (external 110VAC plug, mobo plug, or neither?). Also, after reading pH's article, you wouldn't need to wire a ground wire to the molex when tapping into the PS because most pumps that I know of don't have a ground anyways. Correct? I would really rather not use a relay because I see no reason to have two power plugs going out of the case. I already voided my warrenty anyways... I would just rather get the power from my PS.

05-21-2003, 10:33 PM	#7
CheeseBall Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Colorado Posts: 176	I have read pH's article, but I'm not exactly sure I get what you mean bigben. In pH's article it LOOKS like you're wiring to the outside of the PS plug. Are you tapping into the PS plug from the inside in the same manner as you would when using the switch? Thanks for the help, Also, could someone explain more on how you would set up the diode thing (when using a relay), and if you all think it's really neccessary. My PS is worth about $100, so if it's at all a good idea I'll do it.

05-22-2003, 07:56 PM	#9
CheeseBall Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Colorado Posts: 176	how much skill does it take to solder it? Maybe I could find someone to help me out soldering.

05-22-2003, 08:29 PM	#10
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Basic soldering skills are all that's needed. The problem is that it might be tricky to get to the leads, depending on the PSU layout. In mine, I'd have to solder it on one of 4 PCB (printed circuit board), and that would be very easy. (Of course I won't be doing that, hehe! ) __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

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