maze 4?

jesus · 06-12-2003, 04:03 PM

i know this has probley been asked a million times.. does anyone know how this block performs compared to a maze 3 and dtek white water? i wanna get back into water cooling and im deciding on which block to get for an amd rig. thx

pHaestus · 06-12-2003, 04:22 PM

I am assuming it is better than a Maze 3 or they would go back to drawing board. No idea about WW, but other blocks dont seem to be getting all that close.

jesus · 06-12-2003, 07:48 PM

also the becooling block the "slit edge" seen here

i dont think its as good as the other blocks, but it kinda uses a ww type design. has anyone tried this block?

and still no has reviewed the maze 4 , cmon..

redleader · 06-12-2003, 11:46 PM

Those outter channels are pretty pointless.

Anyway looks like a WW clone with slightly less thought given. Probably does pretty good.

Sproket · 06-13-2003, 12:11 AM

I honestly ahve been having a little problem with my Whitewater collecting fuzz, lint at the input barb. I have no idea where this lint is coming from. I take system apart and clean everything and fill outside of case and distilled water is crystal clear, lint free when I add it. I must be missing something.
Right now I think Im lint free, if temps start to rise after weeks then I know I have lint.
Now Im using a new rad so this problem maybe solved.
Before was a dtek heatercore. Now Aquacoil II.
Maybe I had lint inside of dtek rad?

BO(V)BZ · 06-13-2003, 10:16 AM

Could the fibers be some sort of algae? If you don't have any anti-bacterial chemicals, that's what I'd think that it is.

airspirit · 06-15-2003, 11:59 AM

Some algae looks like that. That would be my suspicion. Try adding some antifreeze, hyperlube, and non-chlorine/non-bromine hot tub sanitizer to your coolant after doing a full system flush (to kill it all). Check out how to do this easily here:

http://www.procooling.com/articles/h...atercoole5.php

No scrubbing involved and it will ALL die. Plus, any non-organic gunk will get flushed as well.

redleader · 06-15-2003, 02:37 PM

Are you using Water Wetter?

Anyway I'd keep the DTek. Its a much better radiator.

OT: When you search for "Aquacoil II" on Google, this thread is the second link.

Sproket · 06-15-2003, 03:15 PM

Dtek Rad way better than AquaCoil II???
Hmmm.......
Yes Dtek Rad is better at cooling than Aquacoil II by like 3 degree.
Thats it.
BUT if your gonna run UV Dye through the Dtek you can forget it.
The dtek acts like a UV Dye trap.

One big difference I have Noticed about the AquaCoil II, It Rocks.
I No longer get that white film on the inside of my tubes, they are just clear. I No longer see little specs of solder floating around inside tubing, my UV Dye just stays there inside tubing and makes me happy. there are no mixed metals inside the AquaCoil either, 100% copper.

As I type Im sitting at 98F with Whitewater block and Im overclocked. Im getting a second L1A fan for the AquaCoil II. Thats should drop temps even more, then my temps will be below what I had before with the Dtek Rad.

My 2 cents

NeoReaper · 06-15-2003, 08:50 PM

OMG is that why my blue uv dye seems to vanish after a day or so??? why does the uv dye get trapped in the dtek radiator?

06-12-2003, 04:03 PM	#1
jesus Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: my house Posts: 18	maze 4? i know this has probley been asked a million times.. does anyone know how this block performs compared to a maze 3 and dtek white water? i wanna get back into water cooling and im deciding on which block to get for an amd rig. thx

06-13-2003, 12:11 AM	#5
Sproket Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 193	I honestly ahve been having a little problem with my Whitewater collecting fuzz, lint at the input barb. I have no idea where this lint is coming from. I take system apart and clean everything and fill outside of case and distilled water is crystal clear, lint free when I add it. I must be missing something. Right now I think Im lint free, if temps start to rise after weeks then I know I have lint. Now Im using a new rad so this problem maybe solved. Before was a dtek heatercore. Now Aquacoil II. Maybe I had lint inside of dtek rad? __________________ NF7-S Bios D1.8 218FSB X 11.5 1700+ DLT3C 0310 @ 2511Mhz TwinMos 2x256 PC3200 BH-5 Albatron TI4800se 310/643 3dmark 15,110 3DMark2001SE Link

06-15-2003, 11:59 AM	#7
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Some algae looks like that. That would be my suspicion. Try adding some antifreeze, hyperlube, and non-chlorine/non-bromine hot tub sanitizer to your coolant after doing a full system flush (to kill it all). Check out how to do this easily here: http://www.procooling.com/articles/h...atercoole5.php No scrubbing involved and it will ALL die. Plus, any non-organic gunk will get flushed as well. __________________ #!/bin/sh {who;} {last;} {pause;} {grep;} {touch;} {unzip;} mount /dev/girl -t {wet;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} echo yes yes yes {yes;} umount {/dev/girl;zip;} rm -rf {wet.spot;} {sleep;} finger: permission denied

06-15-2003, 03:15 PM	#9
Sproket Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 193	Dtek Rad way better than AquaCoil II??? Hmmm....... Yes Dtek Rad is better at cooling than Aquacoil II by like 3 degree. Thats it. BUT if your gonna run UV Dye through the Dtek you can forget it. The dtek acts like a UV Dye trap. One big difference I have Noticed about the AquaCoil II, It Rocks. I No longer get that white film on the inside of my tubes, they are just clear. I No longer see little specs of solder floating around inside tubing, my UV Dye just stays there inside tubing and makes me happy. there are no mixed metals inside the AquaCoil either, 100% copper. As I type Im sitting at 98F with Whitewater block and Im overclocked. Im getting a second L1A fan for the AquaCoil II. Thats should drop temps even more, then my temps will be below what I had before with the Dtek Rad. My 2 cents __________________ NF7-S Bios D1.8 218FSB X 11.5 1700+ DLT3C 0310 @ 2511Mhz TwinMos 2x256 PC3200 BH-5 Albatron TI4800se 310/643 3dmark 15,110 3DMark2001SE Link

06-12-2003, 04:22 PM	#2
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	I am assuming it is better than a Maze 3 or they would go back to drawing board. No idea about WW, but other blocks dont seem to be getting all that close.

06-12-2003, 07:48 PM	#3
jesus Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: my house Posts: 18	also the becooling block the "slit edge" seen here i dont think its as good as the other blocks, but it kinda uses a ww type design. has anyone tried this block? and still no has reviewed the maze 4 , cmon..

06-12-2003, 11:46 PM	#4
redleader Thermophile Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az Posts: 1,264	Those outter channels are pretty pointless. Anyway looks like a WW clone with slightly less thought given. Probably does pretty good.

06-13-2003, 10:16 AM	#6
BO(V)BZ Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: WI Posts: 53	Could the fibers be some sort of algae? If you don't have any anti-bacterial chemicals, that's what I'd think that it is.

06-15-2003, 02:37 PM	#8
redleader Thermophile Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az Posts: 1,264	Are you using Water Wetter? Anyway I'd keep the DTek. Its a much better radiator. OT: When you search for "Aquacoil II" on Google, this thread is the second link.

06-15-2003, 08:50 PM	#10
NeoReaper Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2003 Location: USA Posts: 30	OMG is that why my blue uv dye seems to vanish after a day or so??? why does the uv dye get trapped in the dtek radiator?

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