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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#26 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 193
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Hey Redleader:
Who do you know w/ UV Dye and heatercore. Can you find out what heatercore and UV Dye? The only heatercore and UV Dye success I have heard of is with the Dangerden series.
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NF7-S Bios D1.8 218FSB X 11.5 1700+ DLT3C 0310 @ 2511Mhz TwinMos 2x256 PC3200 BH-5 Albatron TI4800se 310/643 3dmark 15,110 3DMark2001SE Link |
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#27 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 58
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Well I do use a Dtek rad in my rig. The UV dye is not from D-tek but our own brand in our shop. Been running for 5 months now without fading so this puzzles me....I am sure it's not the rad.
http://lux-forums.pascomwebhosting.c...topic.php?t=52
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#28 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: C-ville, VA
Posts: 6
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I'm not sure if this applies to this situation, but pigments, including many fluorescent "dyes", are highly insoluble in water (around 1 part per trillion). They are particulate in aqueous solution and require some turbulance to remain in the water column. The dyes in question could be tested for solubility by centrifugation of the diluted sample (something around 1000g x 5 minutes). Edit: Or just dilute in coolant in a tall jar and let it sit a few days to see if any flourescenece begins to band at the bottom.
As far as the general loss of flourescence some people have seen, this could also simply be photobleaching (loss of activity of the flourophore). A stabilizing agent such as n-propyl gallate may be required. http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/cgi-bin/...ProdNo=W294705 n-propyl gallate is what I have used in fluorescence microscopy, but there are many anti-fading reagents, some of which may be better suited to home use. I suspect the original sample of dye may contain an anti-fading reagent, but the dilution when added to cooling systems may bring the concentration below a feasible level. PS: I hope I'm not restating well-known data. I've only recently started reading this forum in hopes of quieting my HTPC. Last edited by RabidMoose; 06-17-2003 at 07:45 PM. |
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#29 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 193
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Deviant:
Sounds like you may not have the same Dtek Rad we have. They make two types. One with screw in barbs and one without screw in barbs. Which do you have and what type of pump are you using? How can I get some of that UV Dye your using? is that Dye-lite? I see those pics of UV Dye all over the net! http://www.directron.com/waterdye.html Those look like the Old dtek Dye pics. I bought some UV Dye from Directron.com and it was the worst! It was exactly old dye-lite. Thanks ***That Is One Bad, Sweet Looking Case *** Notice the Rad is installed sideways at the top.
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NF7-S Bios D1.8 218FSB X 11.5 1700+ DLT3C 0310 @ 2511Mhz TwinMos 2x256 PC3200 BH-5 Albatron TI4800se 310/643 3dmark 15,110 3DMark2001SE Link Last edited by Sproket; 06-17-2003 at 09:32 PM. |
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#30 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 58
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Sproket:
To my knowloedge D-tek has only one heatercore. Some painted and one unpainted. Mine's black and I have the barbs screwed in. My pump is an Hydor L30. The UV dye is not Dye-Lite nor comes from D-Tek. We deal with an industrial company that makes UV dyes, UV paints and UV inks among other things. They know their stuff when it comes to UV. I honestly know no other stores that uses that company. I'm not saying we are the only one but I haven't seen one that uses them yet. Most use Dye-Lite and brand them under their name. I'd like to help clear this matter out for you so if you pay for the shipping I'll send you a 1 oz. bottle for free. ![]()
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#31 | |
Thermophile
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az
Posts: 1,264
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I'm guessing you just have crappy die or something. |
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#32 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 193
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I dont want to stir up stuff or make any one person or company look bad. thats not my intensions. But the facts are, for me, I tried Dtek dye and rad and it did Not work for me. If I took out Dtek rad out of loop I had no problem, even with same dye. Yes the Dtek Dye worked well without Dtek rad.
I tried mounting that rad every which way. I used distilled water all the time. Just my facts and experience.
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NF7-S Bios D1.8 218FSB X 11.5 1700+ DLT3C 0310 @ 2511Mhz TwinMos 2x256 PC3200 BH-5 Albatron TI4800se 310/643 3dmark 15,110 3DMark2001SE Link |
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#33 | |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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Right, but your experience points to a heatercore (any heatercore) as acting as a trap for heavy UV particles. Obviously the Aquacoil doesn't. The oddball is Joe
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Sprocket, if you want to try Deviant's dye, I'll chip in for the shipping. I assume that we can get more of the stuff, if it works? |
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#34 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 193
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Oh I'll pay for shipping, no big deal. But thank you for the offer.
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NF7-S Bios D1.8 218FSB X 11.5 1700+ DLT3C 0310 @ 2511Mhz TwinMos 2x256 PC3200 BH-5 Albatron TI4800se 310/643 3dmark 15,110 3DMark2001SE Link |
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#35 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 58
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Sproket,
I don't want to twist your arm. I was just trying to help. Like I said my offer stands...not to put down D-Tek (hell! I'm their main Canadian reseller lol) but to try and help solve this issue. Anyway, if you are interested, PM me with your address. If not no harm done.
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