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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 45
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All-
I just got in a nice dual xeon motherboard and while getting out my Swiftech gear (swiftech P4 blocks with Xeon Mounting hardware) I noticed something rather bizarre.. Each mounting piece has four screws with springs, for more info see here at Sidewinder You'll also notice the 4 "washers" in the picture, these things actually have teeth inside them and seem to twist onto the screw. Well I attempted the installation, only to find on one of my kits I was missing the washers with teeth. So Sidewinder offered to mail me some replacements (Nicely done!). However, I noticed as I mounted the one complete kit, that the springs never compressed? In fact, without those washers I couldn't get any pressure on the block to actually mount to the CPU. So, being rather inspired, I went to Home Depot and picked up some 6/32s 1.25 inch screws to replace the 1.5 inch ones they send. So I gave it a shot. Now there is definitly more pressure, as the springs compress (somewhat), however not too much. Then, just this morning I see Sidewinder is now selling 1 5/8s inch screws. Argh! Should I replace the 1.25s inch ones I got a home depot? Do I risk some sort of damage to the cpu? I didn't have to use any force to put them on, in fact I never did more than light touch the screw driver and put them in. Please tell me I'm ok and don't sweat it. Thanks! |
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#2 |
Big PlayerMaking Big Money
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com
Posts: 4,782
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I would contact Swiftech directly about this issue. It sounds like possibly you got screws designed for a different processor with your package.
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#3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 45
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I'm thinking your right, I'm just trying to imagine if 3/8 of an inch is going to matter when it comes to pressure on the cpu.
Of course I don't want to break anything, but I'd like to get the whole system fired up before my return windows close with newegg and such. H |
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#4 |
Big PlayerMaking Big Money
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com
Posts: 4,782
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3/8" is a pretty big shift in the pressure applied. It might not matter if you are increasing the pressure but if you are decreasing then you run the risk of damaging th CPUs. They have the normal P4 heatspreader on them, right? If so then it requires a LOT of force to flatten out onto the core so that you get good thermal transfer from core through heatspreader to heatsink. Just give Gabe a call; they can probably overnight you the parts. I can't imagine that they sell a lot of Xeon heatsinks at Sidewinder. And if it's a shorter screw that is needed I am sure you can find them at Home Depot or such. The springs should definitely be compressing though and if they aren't then something is wrong.
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#5 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Posts: 2,371.493,106
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h4rm0nix
sounds like you have the ss adaptor plate on the bottom side of the wb ck your instructions (look at the image on the link you posted) the correct screw length is 1 1/2 " |
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#6 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 45
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To all-
Thanks for the assistance, the problem was the 1 1/2 inch screws did NOT compress the springs at all, in fact the block would fall off if not for the Antec silver sticking it on. So I went with some nice 1 1/4 inch screws from Home Depot. They worked nicely, I did not tighten them down all the way, just to the point where the first two coils compressed together. All in all I believe the change in pressure will be minimal, and doubt it will cause any damage to the cpu. I can recall Heatsink fans that created more down pressure than these things. (God I hate those spring mount fans!) However, just to help explain the problem, I've attached a small picture of the final mounted blocks. ![]() |
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#7 | |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
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#8 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 45
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Ok, Is this going to make a difference?
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#9 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 45
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Maybe you can help me out, I don't understand how this would work differently.
From my understanding the flange piece (bright metal piece with holes for the mounting screws) is a specific width throughout. If I remove it and flip it over won't it be the same width still? I didn't notice a lip or edge that would have made one side "thicker" tthan the other, however perhaps that's just poor vision. If I understand you right, what your saying is if I take it out and flip the flange over then the original screws will work? H |
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#10 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
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on my old website (sig link) there is an article on testing showing the measured load/deflection curve for these springs
- from which you can calculate the load but if the spring coils are binding, you have no idea of the load you are applying -> if binding it is excessive in any case |
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#11 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 45
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Ok, so if I remove the coil binding I should be fine?
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#12 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 45
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Done.
I've removed the 1 1/4 inch screws, and replaced them with the 1 1/2 inch screws, this time using the newly acquired washers with teeth (I wish I knew the name of those things). Sidewinder sent me additional washers last week, and they arrived while I was responding. Hopefully this means I will be ok. Too bad swiftech didn't provide additional instructions with the install kit, they were very sparse on detail. H |
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#13 |
Big PlayerMaking Big Money
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com
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He is saying that you have the stainless steel plate under the block (you can see the blue of the aluminum top on top of the stainless steel in your pic). You SHOULD have the stainless steel plate on top of the block, which would raise the springs 0.1" or so and cause them to give the right pressure with the included 1.5" bolts.
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#14 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 45
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You know, I think it took me 15 minutes until I figured out what you meant.
hahah, I understand now, time to remove the blocks and start again. Doh! H |
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#15 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
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h4rm0nix
thanks for the input, the instructions are being made quite explicit BTW, the nylon washers with 'teeth' are retaining washers to hold the screw/spring assy in place during assembly - and they go under the plate they are essential to nothing, just a convenience |
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#16 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 45
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Thanks guys! I finally got it.
Now, one last thing... When I took the blocks back off, I noticed that the die didn't line up directly underneath the nicely lapped portion of the block. There's a 1/16th on one edge of the die that is not touching the block. I figured this is a bad thing, however I can't mode the block mounts into place any more. Strange H |
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#17 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
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normal, all ok
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#18 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 45
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Thanks! Time to remount and move on.
I apprecite all the help guys, hopefully more idiots like me will come along and read these postings. Thanks! H |
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