Getting Clearflex tubing over copper pipe

LeadSalad · 07-29-2003, 06:54 PM

Is it possible to somehow get 1/2inch Clearflex tubing over 1/2inch copper pipe? Does boiling it work to soften it and then slide it over the copper pipe? Or am I going to have to solder pipe to brass barbs?

waterrat · 07-29-2003, 07:00 PM

1/2 a cup of water, 90 sec in the microwave and, voila!!

LeadSalad · 07-29-2003, 07:45 PM

Thanks, guess I'll try that..

bigben2k · 07-29-2003, 08:10 PM

It's not easy, but it's possible. The OD of a "1/2 inch" copper fitting is more like 5/8".

I use the same nuked water.

yuanlong · 07-29-2003, 10:30 PM

Abit out of topic but still related...

If I got the tube over the copper pipe, it will be quite hard to pull out after some time of usage... so how do you guys pull it out, by heaten it again or any other method??

Zhentar · 07-29-2003, 10:40 PM

A utility knife works pretty well for getting it off I'd assume.

I've started leak testing my first watercooling set up.

The hose I boiled to get on the 5/8" pipe on my radiator are the only 2 connections that didn't leak on my first test, even without anything holding them tight.

bigben2k · 07-30-2003, 08:19 AM

Clamps become optional, at this point: the tight connection works almost as well as a clamp itself would.

To get it off, you can pull the tubing at an angle, back and forth, while pulling out.

Spike · 07-30-2003, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by waterrat
1/2 a cup of water, 90 sec in the microwave and, voila!!

Or you could just boil some water in a kettle

waterrat · 07-30-2003, 03:32 PM

but, I like microwave.

I use clamps any way, on all my connection, and my radiator does not have barbs

CoolROD · 07-30-2003, 10:22 PM

The nominal O.D. of 1/2" pipe is .840" -This holds for any schedule -"wall thickness" SCH 10, 40, 80, 120 etc.

bigben2k · 07-30-2003, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by CoolROD
The nominal O.D. of 1/2" pipe is .840" -This holds for any schedule -"wall thickness" SCH 10, 40, 80, 120 etc.

Yeah but copper is a bit different.

I found that the 1/2" fittings have an OD that's 1/16 short of 3/4", aka 11/16".

The 3/8" fittings are perfect for 1/2" tubing though.

CoolROD · 07-30-2003, 11:08 PM

Ben -you know more than most people but here it is for the record:

The male (and female) threaded part of 1/2-14 NPT has to have the same geometry -across the board- for the typical takeup of .4375 (7/16"). SCH 40 would have an ID of about .622" (~5/8"), an O.D. of .840" So your first thread could be roughly 11/16" (.688) -Now that is a 3/16" Dia. stretch -it can't be fun putting those on! ...and it is going to leak because there is nothing to fill in the void between threads.

Material shouldn't make a difference for american standard pipe.

bigben2k · 07-30-2003, 11:16 PM

No, I was referring to copper fittings and pipe, the kind that you solder together.

I was just at the hardware store, and I had my tape measure with me!

I also measured a threaded PVC 90 elbow (schedule 80), and the inside is still 3/4", and in the same bad mitre configuration. In other words, to get that sweep in an elbow, you really have to use the copper fittings.

3/8" fittings are good for 1/2" tubing, but the actual curve in the fitting is narrower than the connection, probably more like 3/8" (go figure!).

I asked my buddy Roger what cheap pipe bender he used: I'm going to have to try something myself.

Now if only there was 5/8" copper parts available anywhere, then I might be able to clamp my 3/4 tubing to it. (btw, the 3/4" fitting have an OD of ~1 inch

).

CoolROD · 07-30-2003, 11:37 PM

OK you are looking at copper tubing -like you sweat (solder)together. Soft copper tubing is regularly available in 5/8" Dia. It is soft enough that it is sold in rolls in boxes.

You can easily bend it in your hands but if you want tight radiuses you do need a bender...or even a long spring that just fits over the tube

I have a set of benders made this way and they work pretty well. Get an extension spring so it will have a lot more coils to support the tubing.

Tubing benders are available pretty cheap also. My local Carquest sold one this week that would do 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 for $7.00. And it was the type with a moving arm which is much better than the one piece units.

bigben2k · 07-30-2003, 11:53 PM

Here's what my buddy Roger did:
http://www.wc101.com/articles/coppertubing.php

...and yes, he did use vynil for the connections to the blocks.

He made a reference to a "tube bending spring". Is that what you were talking about?

I'd like to be able to make really tight bends, but if I have to, I'll use 45 elbows fittings. The problem is still that there's no fitting that'll accept a 3/4 braided hose with ease.

CoolROD · 08-01-2003, 12:58 AM

Just curious...what kind of "braided" hose are you using?

bigben2k · 08-01-2003, 07:16 AM

It's regular ole' 3/4" ID braided vinyl hose that I got at the hardware store. Dirt cheap, but solid as a bullet!

mad mikee · 08-01-2003, 08:33 AM

Variable temp Heatguns from the local hardware store, put a little lube on the pipe (no not that one!) and just wiggle it on over. Clamps will be required since it will probably not be a vise-like grip. Also don't try for ridiculous expansion like 1/2" tube on 3/4" pipe!

07-29-2003, 06:54 PM	#1
LeadSalad Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: East Bay, Cali Posts: 10	Getting Clearflex tubing over copper pipe Is it possible to somehow get 1/2inch Clearflex tubing over 1/2inch copper pipe? Does boiling it work to soften it and then slide it over the copper pipe? Or am I going to have to solder pipe to brass barbs?

07-29-2003, 07:00 PM	#2
waterrat Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: miami Posts: 35	1/2 a cup of water, 90 sec in the microwave and, voila!! __________________ 8rda3+,xp1600@1.8gig, OCZ EL 256meg x 2, TI4200, MAZE 3,RIO 1700, BIX size used heater core.

07-29-2003, 08:10 PM	#4
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	It's not easy, but it's possible. The OD of a "1/2 inch" copper fitting is more like 5/8". I use the same nuked water. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-30-2003, 08:19 AM	#7
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Clamps become optional, at this point: the tight connection works almost as well as a clamp itself would. To get it off, you can pull the tubing at an angle, back and forth, while pulling out. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-30-2003, 10:22 PM	#10
CoolROD Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: North Carolina, USA Posts: 225	The nominal O.D. of 1/2" pipe is .840" -This holds for any schedule -"wall thickness" SCH 10, 40, 80, 120 etc. __________________ Jack of all Trades, Master of None.

07-29-2003, 07:45 PM	#3
LeadSalad Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: East Bay, Cali Posts: 10	Thanks, guess I'll try that..

07-29-2003, 10:30 PM	#5
yuanlong Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2003 Location: Malaysia, KL Posts: 39	Abit out of topic but still related... If I got the tube over the copper pipe, it will be quite hard to pull out after some time of usage... so how do you guys pull it out, by heaten it again or any other method??

07-29-2003, 10:40 PM	#6
Zhentar Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 225	A utility knife works pretty well for getting it off I'd assume. I've started leak testing my first watercooling set up. The hose I boiled to get on the 5/8" pipe on my radiator are the only 2 connections that didn't leak on my first test, even without anything holding them tight.

07-30-2003, 03:32 PM	#9
waterrat Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: miami Posts: 35	but, I like microwave. I use clamps any way, on all my connection, and my radiator does not have barbs

07-30-2003, 11:08 PM	#12
CoolROD Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: North Carolina, USA Posts: 225	Ben -you know more than most people but here it is for the record: The male (and female) threaded part of 1/2-14 NPT has to have the same geometry -across the board- for the typical takeup of .4375 (7/16"). SCH 40 would have an ID of about .622" (~5/8"), an O.D. of .840" So your first thread could be roughly 11/16" (.688) -Now that is a 3/16" Dia. stretch -it can't be fun putting those on! ...and it is going to leak because there is nothing to fill in the void between threads. Material shouldn't make a difference for american standard pipe. __________________ Jack of all Trades, Master of None.

07-30-2003, 11:16 PM	#13
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	No, I was referring to copper fittings and pipe, the kind that you solder together. I was just at the hardware store, and I had my tape measure with me! I also measured a threaded PVC 90 elbow (schedule 80), and the inside is still 3/4", and in the same bad mitre configuration. In other words, to get that sweep in an elbow, you really have to use the copper fittings. 3/8" fittings are good for 1/2" tubing, but the actual curve in the fitting is narrower than the connection, probably more like 3/8" (go figure!). I asked my buddy Roger what cheap pipe bender he used: I'm going to have to try something myself. Now if only there was 5/8" copper parts available anywhere, then I might be able to clamp my 3/4 tubing to it. (btw, the 3/4" fitting have an OD of ~1 inch ). __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-30-2003, 11:37 PM	#14
CoolROD Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: North Carolina, USA Posts: 225	OK you are looking at copper tubing -like you sweat (solder)together. Soft copper tubing is regularly available in 5/8" Dia. It is soft enough that it is sold in rolls in boxes. You can easily bend it in your hands but if you want tight radiuses you do need a bender...or even a long spring that just fits over the tube I have a set of benders made this way and they work pretty well. Get an extension spring so it will have a lot more coils to support the tubing. Tubing benders are available pretty cheap also. My local Carquest sold one this week that would do 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 for $7.00. And it was the type with a moving arm which is much better than the one piece units. __________________ Jack of all Trades, Master of None.

07-30-2003, 11:53 PM	#15
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Here's what my buddy Roger did: http://www.wc101.com/articles/coppertubing.php ...and yes, he did use vynil for the connections to the blocks. He made a reference to a "tube bending spring". Is that what you were talking about? I'd like to be able to make really tight bends, but if I have to, I'll use 45 elbows fittings. The problem is still that there's no fitting that'll accept a 3/4 braided hose with ease. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

08-01-2003, 12:58 AM	#16
CoolROD Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: North Carolina, USA Posts: 225	Just curious...what kind of "braided" hose are you using? __________________ Jack of all Trades, Master of None.

08-01-2003, 07:16 AM	#17
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	It's regular ole' 3/4" ID braided vinyl hose that I got at the hardware store. Dirt cheap, but solid as a bullet! __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

08-01-2003, 08:33 AM	#18
mad mikee Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: US of A!!!! Posts: 146	heat guns work wonders also Variable temp Heatguns from the local hardware store, put a little lube on the pipe (no not that one!) and just wiggle it on over. Clamps will be required since it will probably not be a vise-like grip. Also don't try for ridiculous expansion like 1/2" tube on 3/4" pipe! __________________ His PCV2000 DFI ULTRA D (SLI Modded just because) 4200 x2 @ ~ 10 x 260 /1.49 Vcore , G5 + PA160 + 150mm Papst@5V + Maze 4 GPU + mcp350. Temp 36-37(load-2 x D20L) 2x1GB Ballistix PC4000, x800xl 256m, 74G rap + 160G Hitachi SATA , 21" mit/nec 1920x1440 Crt + 19 Neovo F-419 1280x1024 LCD, OCZ Powerstream 600 Hers: (my beloved who lets me do all this) LianLi PCV1000, SD3700 @ 9x300, 1GB GBLA, 250+ 120 SATA, X700pro, 19" Neovo F-419 LCD, another OCZ 600

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