Methods for disconnecting tubing? quick disconnects, etc...

orev · 10-07-2003, 02:34 PM

It's been a long time since I last looked into this, so I'm hoping someone has figured something out by now.

I have most of my cooling gear in an external box (pump, rad, fans) because my case isn't big enough for everything. I'm looking for a method to easily disconnect the tubes from the external box, to make it easier to move the case around.

I've seen the stuff at US Plastics. Has anyone used anything like that?

How about other methods? Ideally a quick disconnect with shutoff would be best, but I can deal with a disconnect without shutoff. I'm hoping someone has found something that doesn't affect flow rate too much.

Thanks

winewood · 10-07-2003, 03:58 PM

Put a ball valve with 3/8 - 3/8 nipples on each side with tubing going to a john guest fitting on each going to the external case... OR

properly drain you equipment for transport like you should, and not worry about it. I drain my setup, then blow into it, to make sure all remaining water in the loop is out. Then drain the leftover. It takes 2 minutes if you have quick fittings on your res.

Hellion_Prime · 10-08-2003, 07:20 AM

I've used the Colder HFC quick disconnects from USPlastic before. They work very well. My only issue with them is they have a 3/8" nominall flow through the fitting, no matter what the actual size is.

megalomando · 10-14-2003, 02:20 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Hellion_Prime
I've used the Colder HFC quick disconnects from USPlastic before. They work very well. My only issue with them is they have a 3/8" nominall flow through the fitting, no matter what the actual size is.

I have a computerized beer homebrewery I built and in the process discovered that there are different types of valves. if you go HERE you'll go to a page that sort of describes this. ( the company is no longer in business but has left the web page up for past customers to review when buying from somewhere else). In short, some valves are full bore & others are less than that.

http://www.morebeer.com/

Has a good selection of valves & quick disconnects.

& For our Aussie friends

http://oz.craftbrewer.org/

Good luck

brucoman · 10-14-2003, 03:27 PM

I have also used the Colder valved disconnects, but removed them due to high pressure drop. I now use Parker FS-751-12FP/FS-752-12FP hydraulic disconnects (http://www.parker.com/quickcouplings.../FS_Series.PDF), I get less than .3 PSI drop at up to 3 gpm. They are HUGE, 316 Stainless Steel & come in at a hefty 2# each. Find them at auction/discount house with a bit of luck.

brucoman · 10-14-2003, 03:32 PM

As far as draining the system? Only in an emergency leak would that happen. In a sealed system, 90% Distilled water & 10% blend of Methanol, Isopropyl & Ethylene glycol.... use rubber gloves...methanol = BAD...

10-07-2003, 02:34 PM	#1
orev Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 35	Methods for disconnecting tubing? quick disconnects, etc... It's been a long time since I last looked into this, so I'm hoping someone has figured something out by now. I have most of my cooling gear in an external box (pump, rad, fans) because my case isn't big enough for everything. I'm looking for a method to easily disconnect the tubes from the external box, to make it easier to move the case around. I've seen the stuff at US Plastics. Has anyone used anything like that? How about other methods? Ideally a quick disconnect with shutoff would be best, but I can deal with a disconnect without shutoff. I'm hoping someone has found something that doesn't affect flow rate too much. Thanks

10-07-2003, 03:58 PM	#2
winewood Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: in my chair Posts: 574	Put a ball valve with 3/8 - 3/8 nipples on each side with tubing going to a john guest fitting on each going to the external case... OR properly drain you equipment for transport like you should, and not worry about it. I drain my setup, then blow into it, to make sure all remaining water in the loop is out. Then drain the leftover. It takes 2 minutes if you have quick fittings on your res. __________________ -winewood-

10-08-2003, 07:20 AM	#3
Hellion_Prime Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Arlington, MA, US Posts: 90	I've used the Colder HFC quick disconnects from USPlastic before. They work very well. My only issue with them is they have a 3/8" nominall flow through the fitting, no matter what the actual size is. __________________ That which does not kill me had BETTER do enough damage to keep me from firing back!

10-14-2003, 03:27 PM	#5
brucoman Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: Midwest Posts: 157	I have also used the Colder valved disconnects, but removed them due to high pressure drop. I now use Parker FS-751-12FP/FS-752-12FP hydraulic disconnects (http://www.parker.com/quickcouplings.../FS_Series.PDF), I get less than .3 PSI drop at up to 3 gpm. They are HUGE, 316 Stainless Steel & come in at a hefty 2# each. Find them at auction/discount house with a bit of luck.

10-14-2003, 03:32 PM	#6
brucoman Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: Midwest Posts: 157	As far as draining the system? Only in an emergency leak would that happen. In a sealed system, 90% Distilled water & 10% blend of Methanol, Isopropyl & Ethylene glycol.... use rubber gloves...methanol = BAD...

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