2 ?? 4 Cathar - Page 3

Since87 · 11-11-2003, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 8-Ball
How easy is it to remove the heat spreader?

It's fairly easy though somewhat tedious to do carefully.

It is held down with a rubbery material around the rim of the IHS. It's just a matter of gradually sawing away at the rubber with a razor blade. (I didn't push very hard, due to fear of going too far too fast.)

One tip, get a thin single edge razor blade meant for shaving. I got the only thing I could find at the hardware store, which was a box cutter blade. It was too thick to work well, but I did get the job done with it.

nikhsub1 · 11-11-2003, 10:19 PM

It is simple to remove the IHS, listen to Since87 he has it right. I forgot to mention that I lost 5-6C (closer to 5) by removing the IHS.

nikhsub1 · 11-11-2003, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by SoulEdge
@ nikhsub, I'm not using the same mobo as you, I've got an epox 4pca3+ but so far having only cooled WITH the IHS, I can attest to the cpu sensor being extremely unresponsive. It responds to temperature changes rather slowly and also likes to bounce a bit. Like when I'm sitting at idle, it will usually sit there and go 40-42-40-42. My room temp is usually around 25C but when I open my window right next to the rad and let some 10C air in, it takes 5 mins before the cpu decides to drop to about 38 :shrug:

Hmm, my board always reacted very quickly to load/idle temps as the readings are on die. What I mean by that is if in an idle state, say 30C for an idle temp, and I run CPU burn, within seconds the temp will shoot up to 36C. Literally in the blink of an eye. This is what I love about the on die readings, they react very quickly to idle/load changes. Your board must not read the on die like the Asus P4 boards. My point is that my 'load resolution' really were quite bad with the IHS, not that the temps were slow to respond. This bunk resolution leads me to believe that with an IHS, there could be something interesting going on OTHER than just bad measuring equipment.

Perhaps with an IHS, there is a point (at least with watercooling at ambient temps) to where increased efficiencies in WB's mean nothing. Maybe the IHS creates such a barrier that once you get to a certain point, (as Bill would say 'good enough') anything beyond that is useless.

SoulEdge · 11-12-2003, 03:45 PM

Either way, down w/ the IHS!

Seriosly though, I'm taking mine off first chance I get.

bigben2k · 11-13-2003, 01:15 AM

Save that IHS!

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=8345

11-11-2003, 10:19 PM	#52
nikhsub1 c00ling p00n Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: L.A. Posts: 758	It is simple to remove the IHS, listen to Since87 he has it right. I forgot to mention that I lost 5-6C (closer to 5) by removing the IHS. __________________ :-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-: E6700 @ 3.65Ghz / P5W DH Deluxe / 2GB 667 TeamGroup / 1900XTX PC Power & Cooling Turbo 510 Deluxe Mountain Mods U2-UFO Cube Storm G5 --> MP-01 --> PA 120.3 --> 2x DDC Ultras in Series --> Custom Clear Res "Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity." 1,223,460+ Ghz Folding@Home aNonForums :-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:

11-13-2003, 01:15 AM	#55
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Save that IHS! http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=8345 __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

11-12-2003, 03:45 PM	#54
SoulEdge Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: USA Posts: 4	Either way, down w/ the IHS! Seriosly though, I'm taking mine off first chance I get.

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