Heatercore #2-205

t00lb0x · 11-08-2003, 12:32 AM

This heatercore is a monster.
The only problem with it is its .75 and .625 for inlet and outlet (3/4 and 5/8.) It is possible to fit 1/2 clearflex over this or will I have to get someone to weld 1/2 barbs on [not allowed to weld.]

pHaestus · 11-08-2003, 12:42 AM

Clearflex won't go. Silicone you can make stretch.

Skulemate · 11-08-2003, 03:04 AM

Clearflex surely will go over the 5/8" barb, but I do agree that it likely won't make it over the 3/4". Why don't you take a look at the Caprice core (GM 8201)?

pHaestus · 11-08-2003, 10:15 AM

I thought all the chevrolet heatercores used one 5/8 and one 3/4 pipe? Look for a Ford equivalent (Econoline van maybe?). I COULD be wrong about this though.

t00lb0x · 11-08-2003, 11:51 AM

Could I put in a 1/2inch barb and screw it in and use some super heavy glue (supposidly 3 times stronger than glue and waterproof.) Would that work without leaks?

*edit*
What if I cut the barbs so the size gets smaller then try doing the above?

pHaestus · 11-08-2003, 01:08 PM

Superglue won't work but JB Weld will work just fine

t00lb0x · 11-08-2003, 01:47 PM

Guess I'll have to test it then

Gonna get the biggest heatercore I can find now. Where would I get JB weld?

Skulemate · 11-08-2003, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pHaestus
I thought all the chevrolet heatercores used one 5/8 and one 3/4 pipe? Look for a Ford equivalent (Econoline van maybe?). I COULD be wrong about this though.

You are right that the Caprice core does have a 5/8" and a 3/4" barb. However, the 3/4" is made from a flared out 5/8" length of pipe, and as such this section can easily be cut off leaving you with two 5/8" barbs.

Gooserider · 11-09-2003, 10:42 PM

Many cores have the larger diameter tube made by flaring out the smaller size, as was mentioned earlier. It is easy enough to cut the oversized bit off, along with any excess tubing. It is then possible to apply barbs to the remaining stubs. Get a size intended to fit over copper pipe the same size as the OD of the tubing coming out of the rad. (You should be able to get these at a hardware store or Home Depot, but you might need to go to a plumbing supply store)

The best attachment method is to solder (NOT weld!) them on, use a propane torch, low temp (lead, not legal for drinking water systems) solder, and acid core flux. I reccomend filling the core w/ water to keep the heat from getting into the rest of the core and desoldering things you don't want desoldered.

If soldering isn't possible, or it is an aluminum core (don't use copper fittings on an Al core) try JB weld, plumbers goop, or other waterproof sealant/adhesive intended for continuous immersion.

Whatever method is used, pressure test when done (25 PSI max) to ensure there are no leaks.

Gooserider

RedPhoenix · 11-15-2003, 12:23 PM

Home depot sells barbs to fit this. Just do what I did, you know the link.

lol 25psi? Thats recommended? Mine withheld close to.. 375psi before i stopped it. JB Weld is great stuff, I also used some "Goop" its a sealent inbetween the barbs.

Hellion_Prime · 11-17-2003, 01:53 PM

Gooserider · 11-17-2003, 09:05 PM

Quote:

RedPhoenix:
25psi? Thats recommended? Mine withheld close to.. 375psi before i stopped it. JB Weld is great stuff, I also used some "Goop" its a sealent inbetween the barbs.

This is the spec that I got for testing automotive heatercore type rads.

I forget the exact source, but it was one of the better 'experts' here. According to this source the rads are only spec'd to withstand 30 PSI, and he didn't reccomend going over 25. (Note, the standard automotive cooling system is rated 15-20 PSI max) I know that when I started getting over about 20 PSI there was visible distortion in the tubes, and you could hear creaking noises coming from the cooling fins. I wasn't tempted to push it any harder!

Different style rads, particularly the 'Transmission oil cooler' and 'Fin-on-tube' styles would be able to withstand considerably more pressure, however I still wouldn't overdo it. Considering that the *maximum* pressure you can get in a WC setup is less than 15 lbs, probably more like 5-7 PSI for most of our pumps (Figure roughly 0.5 PSI per foot of head pressure) pressure testing at around 100 PSI is WAY overkill, and even 25 PSI is more than adequate. Considering the amount of damage an explosive failure can do, it isn't worth the risks of using higher pressure.

Note that I only tested the rad at 25 PSI, everything else in my setup gets tested at ~90 PSI, my air compressor's maximum output pressure...

Gooserider

RedPhoenix · 11-17-2003, 09:08 PM

Interesting. Alright lol ill be sure to not go that high again. Thanks for the heads up

11-08-2003, 12:32 AM	#1
t00lb0x Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: In a box Posts: 221	Heatercore #2-205 This heatercore is a monster. The only problem with it is its .75 and .625 for inlet and outlet (3/4 and 5/8.) It is possible to fit 1/2 clearflex over this or will I have to get someone to weld 1/2 barbs on [not allowed to weld.] __________________ "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bullshit"

11-08-2003, 03:04 AM	#3
Skulemate Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 381	Clearflex surely will go over the 5/8" barb, but I do agree that it likely won't make it over the 3/4". Why don't you take a look at the Caprice core (GM 8201)? __________________ Michael E. Robbins M.A.Sc. Candidate, University of Toronto 12.1 GHz of AMD's finest (17.7 GHz total) crunching proudly for the AMDMB.com Killer Frogs SETI BOINC: Dual Opteron 246s (Iwill DK8N) \| XP2800+ (Shuttle SN41G2) \| 3x XP2400+ (ASUS A7N266-vm) SETI BOINC: 2x P4 2.8E (ASUS P4R800-vm) \| Crunching 24/7

11-08-2003, 11:51 AM	#5
t00lb0x Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: In a box Posts: 221	Could I put in a 1/2inch barb and screw it in and use some super heavy glue (supposidly 3 times stronger than glue and waterproof.) Would that work without leaks? edit What if I cut the barbs so the size gets smaller then try doing the above? __________________ "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bullshit"

11-08-2003, 01:47 PM	#7
t00lb0x Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: In a box Posts: 221	Guess I'll have to test it then Gonna get the biggest heatercore I can find now. Where would I get JB weld? __________________ "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bullshit"

11-09-2003, 10:42 PM	#9
Gooserider Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: North Billerica, MA, USA Posts: 451	Many cores have the larger diameter tube made by flaring out the smaller size, as was mentioned earlier. It is easy enough to cut the oversized bit off, along with any excess tubing. It is then possible to apply barbs to the remaining stubs. Get a size intended to fit over copper pipe the same size as the OD of the tubing coming out of the rad. (You should be able to get these at a hardware store or Home Depot, but you might need to go to a plumbing supply store) The best attachment method is to solder (NOT weld!) them on, use a propane torch, low temp (lead, not legal for drinking water systems) solder, and acid core flux. I reccomend filling the core w/ water to keep the heat from getting into the rest of the core and desoldering things you don't want desoldered. If soldering isn't possible, or it is an aluminum core (don't use copper fittings on an Al core) try JB weld, plumbers goop, or other waterproof sealant/adhesive intended for continuous immersion. Whatever method is used, pressure test when done (25 PSI max) to ensure there are no leaks. Gooserider __________________ Designing system, will have Tyan S2468UGN Dual Athlon MOBO, SCSI HDDS, other goodies. Will run LINUX only. Want to have silent running, minimal fans, and water cooled. Probably not OC'c

11-08-2003, 12:42 AM	#2
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	Clearflex won't go. Silicone you can make stretch.

11-08-2003, 10:15 AM	#4
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	I thought all the chevrolet heatercores used one 5/8 and one 3/4 pipe? Look for a Ford equivalent (Econoline van maybe?). I COULD be wrong about this though.

11-08-2003, 01:08 PM	#6
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	Superglue won't work but JB Weld will work just fine

11-15-2003, 12:23 PM	#10
RedPhoenix Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 266	Home depot sells barbs to fit this. Just do what I did, you know the link. lol 25psi? Thats recommended? Mine withheld close to.. 375psi before i stopped it. JB Weld is great stuff, I also used some "Goop" its a sealent inbetween the barbs. __________________ rawr www.mysoarer.com

11-17-2003, 01:53 PM	#11
Hellion_Prime Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Arlington, MA, US Posts: 90	__________________ That which does not kill me had BETTER do enough damage to keep me from firing back!

11-17-2003, 09:08 PM	#13
RedPhoenix Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 266	Interesting. Alright lol ill be sure to not go that high again. Thanks for the heads up __________________ rawr www.mysoarer.com

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