what to use after WD40?

fhorst · 12-02-2003, 07:13 PM

I cleaned my blower for my radiators with WD40, and it's silent for now, but after one day it starts making a cracking noise (like it runs dry)

i used WD40, so it does not kill my electro parts.
What kind of oil can I use to make it run smooth again? (that does not kill my electro parts)

bigben2k · 12-02-2003, 09:00 PM

He he... WD-40, as some people know, is actually a degreaser. I keep arguing that it's more of a degreaser than a lubricant, but yes, it can be used, temporarily, as a lubricant.

What you're looking for, is a dielectric grease.

Now if you ever want to remove the grease, use that degreaser, see?

nikhsub1 · 12-02-2003, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
He he... WD-40, as some people know, is actually a degreaser.

Nothing cleans hands better after working on a car, that's for sure

Groth · 12-03-2003, 07:12 AM

A mixture of turpentine and 30 weight motor oil works well. The turpentine thins the oil and decreases the surface tension and increases wetting, allowing excellent penetration. Then, as the turpentine evaporates, the oil is sucked farther into all the tiny spots it wouldn't normally reach.

For hard to reach places, a syringe tipped with a plastic straw works. Yeah, you'll smell the turpentine for a bit, but it will be a long lasting lube.

Bit o' trivia: WD-40 was designed as a Water Displacer. It's lubricating and solvent properties are just a happy coincidence.

killernoodle · 12-03-2003, 10:47 AM

Plastic components that need to be lubricated should be used with lithium grease, but it works just as well on metal components. It is also quite thick, so lots of splattering and dripping shouldnt be a problem when you turn the fan on.

starbuck3733t · 12-03-2003, 03:02 PM

Spray silicon. Works very well on my paintball gun to keep things running smooth... never used it on a fan though.

superart · 12-03-2003, 03:22 PM

whatabout graphite?

ndtinker · 12-03-2003, 04:48 PM

Silicon spray is all I use. Works great on fans and volume knobs that start to pop and crackle when you turn them after awhile.

fhorst · 12-03-2003, 04:57 PM

OK, thanks for the input!

I had some bike chain grease laying arround, it's a spray with HPL PTEE that can be used for "all" that needs grease and has a temp range from -50 to 250 degrees It thin, but vaporises quickly and then leaves a film of grease.

For now it's working, so I let my blower run for 2 days, see if the problem is solved.

There is now also grease inside the copper windings of teh motor, and on the magnet..... I hope that does not matter....

iroc409 · 12-03-2003, 06:00 PM

lol... i was going to suggest silicone as well.

i'd be careful with it tho, it's usually fairly thick and kinda 'sticky'... so on a fan, you probably want to use it quite sparingly.

killernoodle · 12-05-2003, 10:32 PM

I put some slick honey bike fork lube on the inside of an old sunon fan once, decreased 1000 RPMs and was incredibly smooth for some reason. Probably cause the stuff is probably 2000wt.

fhorst · 12-06-2003, 04:54 PM

OK, I tried the spray with HPL PTEE, it's getting thick and sticky.
It seems to kill my PRM, but it's damm silent (at 5v).At 12v I can hear the noise of the air, and that's quite loud, but it has an "overkill" airflow

As I want to run it at 5v it just does not have enough air flow... :-(
So I decided to flush it again with WD40, and use silicone.

With silicone my RMP is back :-) but after running a few days the pitchy, whiring sound comes back again

I also tried the 7v trick, but it seems like you can not run that much amps over that trick. My psu won't start.....

Well, I guess I'm going to soke it again with HPL PTEE , and let it run for a few day's.... Maybe it will speedup again.

Groth · 12-06-2003, 09:00 PM

The 7V thing only works with a sufficient load on the +5V rail. You can get around this with a relay and a delay timer, so the computer has a second or two to load +5V before the blower starts. Or, add a big inductor in series with the blower to reduce its start-up current. The relay or inductor would require a diode to protect against back EMF.

If you're into the cycling thing, try a different chain-lube on your blower. The "dry" lubes for use in dusty/off-road riding should work.

Gooserider · 12-09-2003, 12:45 AM

I thought they had a review here on some 'Green Slime' oil that was intended as shock oil for RC cars? I know the review said nice things about using it on radial fans?

Gooserider

12-02-2003, 07:13 PM	#1
fhorst Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Almere, The Netherlands (Europe) Posts: 262	what to use after WD40? I cleaned my blower for my radiators with WD40, and it's silent for now, but after one day it starts making a cracking noise (like it runs dry) i used WD40, so it does not kill my electro parts. What kind of oil can I use to make it run smooth again? (that does not kill my electro parts) __________________ If it get's hot, it needs to be watercooled!

12-02-2003, 09:00 PM	#2
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	He he... WD-40, as some people know, is actually a degreaser. I keep arguing that it's more of a degreaser than a lubricant, but yes, it can be used, temporarily, as a lubricant. What you're looking for, is a dielectric grease. Now if you ever want to remove the grease, use that degreaser, see? __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

12-03-2003, 10:47 AM	#5
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	Plastic components that need to be lubricated should be used with lithium grease, but it works just as well on metal components. It is also quite thick, so lots of splattering and dripping shouldnt be a problem when you turn the fan on. __________________ I have a nice computer.

12-03-2003, 03:02 PM	#6
starbuck3733t Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: State College, PA Posts: 338	Spray silicon. Works very well on my paintball gun to keep things running smooth... never used it on a fan though. __________________ Goliath: 3.4E@3.91/Abit IC7, Maze4 (temporarily) + custom splitter to crazy 4-way watercooling parallel loop: X800XT @ 520/1280 + AC Twinplex, AC Twinplex Northbridge, Silenstar Dual HDD Cooler, Eheim1250, '85 econoline van HC + 2x120, 1x120 exhaust - polished aluminum frame panaflo L1As, 2x18GB 10K RPM U160 SCSI, 4GB PC4000. I wanna be BladeRunner when I grow up! Project Goliath - nearing completion.

12-03-2003, 03:22 PM	#7
superart Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: FL Posts: 787	whatabout graphite? __________________ When you do things right, people won't be sure youv'e done anything at all. Looking to buy/trade for used Deep Fryer and Vacume Pack Sealer.

12-03-2003, 07:12 AM	#4
Groth Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: MO Posts: 781	A mixture of turpentine and 30 weight motor oil works well. The turpentine thins the oil and decreases the surface tension and increases wetting, allowing excellent penetration. Then, as the turpentine evaporates, the oil is sucked farther into all the tiny spots it wouldn't normally reach. For hard to reach places, a syringe tipped with a plastic straw works. Yeah, you'll smell the turpentine for a bit, but it will be a long lasting lube. Bit o' trivia: WD-40 was designed as a Water Displacer. It's lubricating and solvent properties are just a happy coincidence.

12-03-2003, 04:48 PM	#8
ndtinker Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Medina, TN Posts: 30	Silicon spray is all I use. Works great on fans and volume knobs that start to pop and crackle when you turn them after awhile. __________________ -=:: Deus Ex Machina ::=- Jackson, TN's ONLY LAN Group http://www.jacksongamingleague.com

12-03-2003, 04:57 PM	#9
fhorst Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Almere, The Netherlands (Europe) Posts: 262	OK, thanks for the input! I had some bike chain grease laying arround, it's a spray with HPL PTEE that can be used for "all" that needs grease and has a temp range from -50 to 250 degrees It thin, but vaporises quickly and then leaves a film of grease. For now it's working, so I let my blower run for 2 days, see if the problem is solved. There is now also grease inside the copper windings of teh motor, and on the magnet..... I hope that does not matter.... __________________ If it get's hot, it needs to be watercooled!

12-03-2003, 06:00 PM	#10
iroc409 Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: midwest side, yo Posts: 596	lol... i was going to suggest silicone as well. i'd be careful with it tho, it's usually fairly thick and kinda 'sticky'... so on a fan, you probably want to use it quite sparingly. __________________ :shrug:

12-05-2003, 10:32 PM	#11
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	I put some slick honey bike fork lube on the inside of an old sunon fan once, decreased 1000 RPMs and was incredibly smooth for some reason. Probably cause the stuff is probably 2000wt. __________________ I have a nice computer.

12-06-2003, 04:54 PM	#12
fhorst Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Almere, The Netherlands (Europe) Posts: 262	OK, I tried the spray with HPL PTEE, it's getting thick and sticky. It seems to kill my PRM, but it's damm silent (at 5v).At 12v I can hear the noise of the air, and that's quite loud, but it has an "overkill" airflow As I want to run it at 5v it just does not have enough air flow... :-( So I decided to flush it again with WD40, and use silicone. With silicone my RMP is back :-) but after running a few days the pitchy, whiring sound comes back again I also tried the 7v trick, but it seems like you can not run that much amps over that trick. My psu won't start..... Well, I guess I'm going to soke it again with HPL PTEE , and let it run for a few day's.... Maybe it will speedup again. __________________ If it get's hot, it needs to be watercooled!

12-06-2003, 09:00 PM	#13
Groth Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: MO Posts: 781	The 7V thing only works with a sufficient load on the +5V rail. You can get around this with a relay and a delay timer, so the computer has a second or two to load +5V before the blower starts. Or, add a big inductor in series with the blower to reduce its start-up current. The relay or inductor would require a diode to protect against back EMF. If you're into the cycling thing, try a different chain-lube on your blower. The "dry" lubes for use in dusty/off-road riding should work.

12-09-2003, 12:45 AM	#14
Gooserider Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: North Billerica, MA, USA Posts: 451	I thought they had a review here on some 'Green Slime' oil that was intended as shock oil for RC cars? I know the review said nice things about using it on radial fans? Gooserider __________________ Designing system, will have Tyan S2468UGN Dual Athlon MOBO, SCSI HDDS, other goodies. Will run LINUX only. Want to have silent running, minimal fans, and water cooled. Probably not OC'c

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