deviding water flow into multiple loops

[fhorst]

Hi All,

I guess this has been arround in this forum, but I can't find it..

I want to devide my loop into 2 or 3 loops. One 13mm, one 10mm and one 6mm.

With an Y from the 13 to the 10 and 6 goes OK, but...
as my 6mm loop is more restrictive, almost all the flow goes via the 10mm.

Also, if I don't bring the loop together at the end, I have a decent flow in the 10 and 6mm loop.
If I use the same way, with an Y to bring the loop together again, my 6mm loop "drops dead"!

I guess that's due to the pressure of the 10mm loop.

For my new setup, I'm thinking of using 2 MCP600 with the WW.
As the 2 MCP's will give more flow then the WW can handle, I want to "tap off" the 6mm loop (will be quite restrictive) to release the "over pressure" of the WW.

How do I join the loops together without having the 6mm loop drop dead?

[Gooserider]

If you have a res, I would just have the end of each loop dump into it. Seems to me like a waste to add the flow restriction to rejoin the loops since it doesn't add any additional cooling.

If this means that one loop or the other gets excessive flow, then you might need to add a valve or other restriction in one or more of the loops to balance things out. However I don't think you'll need to do this.

Gooserider

[freeloadingbum]

Why would you think that the WW couldn't handle the pressure of two pumps? I'm sure it could handle ten times that. Adding a second pump would be a waste anyway since the mcp600 is ideal for high resistant blocks already.

[fhorst]

Originally posted by freeloadingbum
Why would you think that the WW couldn't handle the pressure of two pumps? I'm sure it could handle ten times that. Adding a second pump would be a waste anyway since the mcp600 is ideal for high resistant blocks already.

Well, I guess you have seen the results with the MCP600 and a "restrictive" setup. The flow dropped from 8.4 to 5 L per minute.
(3 blocks, 2 rad's, 3/8" tube)

I will have 4 radiators (DTEK, BIX, one from a motorcycle and one from a LADA , WW block, DD Z NB chip block, DD Gforce4 block at 1/2"

I will make mosfets and coil blocks, Block for the south bridge, and thinking of "sandwiching" my P4 with on the back one of those nice flat koolance CPU blocks. (all 6mm ID hose)
I'm still figuring out what to do with my memory and GPU memory

Then I have my harddisks. I'm thinking of building
this block. For now I need at least 3 of them, but I'll be adding an other HDD soon.

So, I don't think one pump can get it all done.

I'm not sure where in the loop I need to place the other pump...

Goose, I think you are right. I guess
this bay from Dangerden should take care of that.

(I could also use it to make 2 seperate loops, with two pumps, but as you could see from what I'm pushing the water through, I guess, only the rad's will already kill the flow for one MCP....)

[fhorst]

Just to clarify:



I guess if I will use the Chieftec Dragon DA-01BD, that one should fit this setup.

Waterloops are to be decided, but i was thinking to use the split of the WW to go to the OTES block. (surgestions are welcome)

For the HDD's, I'm not sure what I'll make. It also clould be a 1.5 mm copper plate on the sides, with some copper tubing welded on it.

Also, I'm not sure how things will fit. If possible, I'll place the MCP's on the side of the blower motor.

The blower will be, besides the fan from the PSU the only fan.

[Blackeagle]

Dumped the first attempt at a post.

1) With the air flow going through 4 RADS and 4 hhds, just how much cooling do you think the last 2 rads will do?

Not much, if any, cooling will come from those last 2 rads, they are flow constrictions on both the air and water side only.

2) Why watercool the hdds, SB & mosfets?

All of these can be cooled by use of air flow & passive heat sinks. And doing so will allow a much better water flow through your systems remaining blocks.

3) Why dual Swiftech pumps?

A single Iwaki MD20rlzt will do it better (more head than the dual 600's combined), and at nearly equal cost.

4) I may be misinformed on motorcycle rads construction, but I believed they were made of aluminum. At least 2 of the other rads are copper cored.

Not good to mix metals, if you are.

I'm unsure as to your goal here. Are you after quiet at all costs?

I'd suggest a separate smaller case under the main puter case for the bulk of your cooling system.

1) One very large heater core. Fedco #2-192 would be a great choice. The blower idea would work well here.

2. Iwaki MD15 which is a better performer than a single 600 and lower cost than dual 600s. A MD20rlzt could be used, but more expensive and larger.

3. Water cool just the CPU, GPU & NB (NB could also be air cooled.

4. Have one inlet 120mm low noise fan and one outlet fan of the same type in the main puter case. These will provide all the air flow needed for the passive heat sinks on the SB, mosfets, vidio RAM, hdds (Or just have the inlet air flow over the hhds without any expensive hdd coolers.) Hook these fans to a reobus for ease of control of your air flow & for the lowest noise possible.

5. Cool the NB with a Swiftech air cooler, it's one of the best air coolers made. And it's all the NB needs.

[fhorst]

Thanks for the detailed reply!

A bit of explanation is in place....

I'm working on 4 things:
1. Silent
2. Get the water temps as close to ambient as possible
3. Water-cool all that needs a heat sink
4. "Low" power consumption

1. The silent part is covered by the use of the Blower. It runs at 4v @ 3A, and is complete silent, with a decent amount of airflow. Good part is that it is made for this type of job.
Even 4 PAPST fans at 7v won’t give the same amount of airflow in this restricted setup.
The rest is taken care of with the use of my Nexus PSU (20dba) and the 2 MCP600.
The Iwaki pump’s seem to make quite some noise!

2. My idea is that the cooling loop will start with a split at the top two rads, to make them less restrictive. They are the “last” to receive air, and will receive the heated water first.
Those two will cool the water a lot, but not to ambient temps. After those 2 rads, the split will be combined again, and go via the motor rad to the LADA rad. As the LADA rad will suck in fresh air, which will be the coldest place, and get the water temps as close to ambient as possible.
As far as I know, there are 3 ways to get more heat dissipated from radiators (in general):
1. more cooling surface
2. higher airflow (= more noise)
3. higher water velocity (= more restrictive)
After testing with one LARGE rad (20x40x5 cm) and several other setups, this is the best way to go to get the temps as low as possible. My motor rad is made of copper.

3. To get a stable OC, I must get the temps of the mosfets down. Hot mosfets and coils give fluctuations in the CPU voltage. Running at 1ghz fzb (4x 250 Mhz) is “normal” for me. I want to push it to 285, getting my CPU at 4Ghz.
I want to get as much heat out of my system, so the HDD’s are water cooled. This is also the reason why I will cool the backside of my CPU with a waterblock. All the heat goes into the water. That’s why I want to split the loops!

4. The blower and 2 MCP600 won’t cost me much power. In the Netherlands where I live, power is expensive! 100 watts on a year basis will cost me 220 Euros (I run 24/7)
This makes the power consumption important.

I hopes this clarifies it a bit.

[rocketmanx]

I've been thinking of running dual "loops" in my rig. But I don't understand why you you want to run both pumps in the same system. Why not just run 2 systems in one rig, one for some components and one for the other. You have 2 pumps and there's no reason why you can't run 2 systems off of the same res. This is what I've been considering, but only a t-line setup, no res. You'd run 2 comlepetely different systems, in t-line with no shared res so no shared temp exchange, and then the high heat items like cpu and gpu won't bring heat into your lower temp system. In your case this would also solve the 2 different rad metal problem.
BTW- I just ordered a small racing heat exchanger to try out. I've been racing for quite a few years and I can't imagine a heater core could cool as well as what I've seen some of the racing rads preform. After all they are designed to take some severe heat. Plus they are built better and they already have the NPT bungs welded into them so you can run any size/type fitting you want. Heck you could even use some cool looking braided stainless hose with aluminum AN fittings, would look very cool

[superart]

Originally posted by rocketmanx
BTW- I just ordered a small racing heat exchanger to try out. I've been racing for quite a few years and I can't imagine a heater core could cool as well as what I've seen some of the racing rads preform. After all they are designed to take some severe heat. Plus they are built better and they already have the NPT bungs welded into them so you can run any size/type fitting you want. Heck you could even use some cool looking braided stainless hose with aluminum AN fittings, would look very cool

post pics of that when you get it. Sounds cool.

[fhorst]

The reason why I chose for running the pumps in "one loop" is to get more performence from my WW.

Also redundency is an issue for me.

besides, the rad's are all copper ;-)

[rocketmanx]

The DB30517 is the one I got, the other is a thinner alternative although they have a lot to choose from. I've been using Fluidyne for quite a while and they are very good. A C&S custom rad would be best but quite expensive. Haven't got the rad yet, still waiting on special order. It was quite salty too at $350, came out of the Ol' racing budget

DB30517 Late Model Oil Cooler

Fluidyne Legends cooler

[fhorst]

That rad looks cool but the price....

still, the question remains... how to spit the loops?

One part I'll take care of, is to place the "outlets" of the two loops into a bay res.

I guess just wait and see where that brings me.