Check this Res out!!!!

[Brad]

HOLY ****ING HELL, that looks SOOOO nice, even if it is a Dell, that is just so ****ing sexy, damn I so want that

[EMC2]

Look closely at that pic that Rick posted. Notice how the water isn't even flowing around the sides of the block except directly under the inlet and outlet.

Also with the "crosshatch" on top of the slug such as it is, I suspect the flow through the valleys of the hatching is very low. Good flow probably only extends at most a third of the way into the valleys. The only good side is the flow on top of the block would be quite turbulent.


icel0rd -
What processor, what multiplier, what FSB, what memory settings, running what program do you get your 9C over ambient. And what specifically is at that temp of and how is the measurement taken?

[icel0rd]

Originally posted by RickCain


So are you saying they will ship to the US? I would love to get that resov.

I ordered one from http://www.low-noise.de/

I sent them an email and they agreed to ship to the US if I wire transfered them the amount in Euro to their account. I wired the money and paid a hefty fee to do so, but I'm glad I did.

These guys are great. They understand english well enough to communicate and they deliver what they promise (at least they did for me).

I love my block.

[Brad]

Heh, I'm working in a computer shop, we had like 8 people all looking at the picture, all drooling. Probably half are married

I have a gf too, but I'd prefer that setup in a dual Xeon or dual athlon than a gf

[Fixittt]

[forward] Email this to Brads Girlfriend [/forward]

[DigitalChaos]

FIXIT i looked at the pics and didnt even see those ties, i was just assuming that the hose clamps were mistaken =) and

RICKCAIN yea i also agree that its because its an amd block on an intel board

EMC2, take a look at the pics of the blocks that are empty. there are little pockets that guide the water. im sure that this is what you are seeing in the filled block pictures as "low flow" but infact these are just the pockets drilled in.


anyway im thinking of using that same slug design, but a different design on the rest of the block, and how the water is channeled in.
if you guys could help me out in finding out how to cut that slug... ill probably make a few for whoever wants them. thing is i dont have a cnc. if thats how they made it , then i would like to know, but i can still figure out some other way.

hell i could always take a hack saw and do that, but it wouldnt look as precise as that. HOW DO YOU GET IT THAT PRECISE???

once i figure out how to cut the slug, i will show you guys me designs.

[Fixittt]

Digital,

I HAVE A CNC MILL NAH NAH NEE BOOO BOO!

I to am working on a design incoperating the "SLug"

I have been for some time now.

As far as the slots cut, It was done with either a Hot saw, or some sort of CNC saw. There is no way those were cut on a CNC mill, You would destroy end mills (Cutters) faster then you would make the slots.

Also, I did notice ho he machines out small pockets in the plexi glass to distribute the coolant over more of the core. I think this is a good design, but the slots are way to thin, maybe if they were 2 to 3 times wider you could get the coolant to "INJECT" thrue the slots at a high velocity.

[DigitalChaos]

Fixit, could ya tell me what a hot saw is?
i have no idea =)

i would only plan on making a very small ammount. mainly just to cover the cost of my block. i love doing that

as for the design. i want to have the pockets to be on the bottom of the block so that cooler water is by the core... instead of the tips of the slug.

[Brad]

Also, I did notice ho he machines out small pockets in the plexi glass to distribute the coolant over more of the core. I think this is a good design, but the slots are way to thin, maybe if they were 2 to 3 times wider you could get the coolant to "INJECT" thrue the slots at a high velocity.

I noticed that too fixitt, I think it'd be interesting to experiment how deep and how wide the plexi channel would be to achieve the best temps

[Kevin]

that reservoir is just a tube... w/ two barbs... not too tough to make...
-Kev

[decodeddiesel]

I agree Kev, just a matter of availability. Honestly though I think I like Turbokeu's better fo looks myself, just my $.02.

[gmat]

Same here. The res is nice but too big and too expensive. I prefer Turbokeu's design, more compact and nicer.
As for retention mechanism of the K4 waterblock i think they sell plexi tops drilled with socket A or 478 holes. Just ask them.

[icel0rd]

Originally posted by EMC2
Look closely at that pic that Rick posted. Notice how the water isn't even flowing around the sides of the block except directly under the inlet and outlet.

Also with the "crosshatch" on top of the slug such as it is, I suspect the flow through the valleys of the hatching is very low. Good flow probably only extends at most a third of the way into the valleys. The only good side is the flow on top of the block would be quite turbulent.


icel0rd -
What processor, what multiplier, what FSB, what memory settings, running what program do you get your 9C over ambient. And what specifically is at that temp of and how is the measurement taken?

Athlon XP 1800+ (actual speed is something like 1.53 GHz
FSB speed = 133 (266 effective since both ends of the wave are used)
Memory settings are set in performance mode on my mobo (not sure what it sets it to, but I can verify).

The temperature was taken on the processor alone via the probe on the board using motherboard monitor and the gigabyte util that comes with the board. I know people are going to lecture about the inaccuracy of the probes on board, but what matters to me is that the last setup I put together using cheaper compound and a less efficient setup with the same components produced poorer results compared to how things run with the way I have my layout now. I never removed the processor, so the probe never got touched.

Before I changed my system layout and corrected hastey mistakes and such, at the previous temperature readings, I got 45 to 48C at full load under 31 to 32c ambient. That was with an inefficient radiator setup under the chassis without a fan blowing directly through the fins or pulling directly through the fins. I had a little desk clip on fan blowing under the chassis until I found a way to cool the rad correctly (ghetto, I know). I also had no chassis fan on the mobo side of my YY cube case to draw or expel air.

What I changed specifically:
Removed the rails that provided support for the very long AGP PCI cards since I didnt need it.

Mounted Rad in the bottom left of the chassis face (inside) against the chassis wall.

Cut a hole in the chassis for my 120mm fan to suck the air through the rad fins. Cut a matching hole through the plastic face for the fan to expel air from.

Installed a rubber gasket around the fan hole to make sure that air was being drawn 100% from inside and that the seal was good.

Fan walls (not blades) were rubber coated and mounted between the plastic face chassis cover and the chassis over the fan hole with the gasket.

Eliminated the chassis fan on the drive bay side of the case (rear) for silence and since my 500W ATX PSU has 2 fans in it and it expels air from that side of the chassis anyway.

Hose lengths were reduced because the radiator was now much closer to the res/pump. New hose was installed since I noticed that the stupid pipe joint compound I used was the stuff that doesnt harden, and it got into the hose and coated it with a white goopy film. Bad move last time. I didnt pay attention because I did a rush job.

Remounted the processor after thoroughly cleaning the block and the core with rubbing alcohol. I noticed that the edge of the block was shifted a bit and was barely sitting on the lip of the processor mounting socket (not an optimal fit and I used cheap compound to top it off). I applied Antec reference silver compound carefully and correctly this time and mounted the block.

Well, that covers it. BTW, I ran SETI@home for an hour to peg the machine at 100% when I took the reading.

I also did some 3d gaming (anarchy online, Q3A) for a few hours and noted the temp immediately after end game. In Anarchy Online, I just run in window mode and check the temps in the system tray.


-Ice-

[RickCain]

Can you post a pic?

[icel0rd]

I promise good pics for you as soon as I get my digital camera.

I was waiting on the minolta DiMage S404 to come out this week. I'm going to place an order maybe this weekend if anyone has the critter in stock yet and I will have lots of pics for you guys


-Ice-

[Fixittt]

sorry Digital.


a hot saw is like a wood cutting curcular saw as it has a round disk. But its more like a HUGE cut off wheel for a dremel. and instead of itbeing portalble like a circualr saw, its mounted to a base. U pull the trigger then pull it down to the material on a hinge. Makes alot of sparks, and smells really bad, It also gets the material really hot. Hence the name HOT SAW

[EMC2]

icel0rd - thanks for the info. So basically a "stock" XP1800, running at default, using the onboard temp probe, right? In that case the temps you gave aren't surprising


Digital - Went back and looked at the pics on the empty block and see the "pockets" that allow the water flow to spread out over the top of the block. But what I see and mentioned in my previous post is if you look at the pics of the block under operation (and you can verify this by looking at the empty blocks) is that there is not any flow around the side of the slug (you can see in the empty block pics that the acrylic actually goes right up against the side of the slug). So, the water flows only across the top of the slug.

Yes, as Fixitt stated the pockets are a good idea in so far as that it helps to spread the flow out before it hits the restrictions of the slug, but some flow around the sides of the slug would improve things too My guess would be that they intentionally prevented side flow because of the flow restriction presented by the top of the slug. If there were channels around the sides of the block of any size, it would significantly reduce the flow over the top (least path of resistance).

Brad - not just the plexichannel depth/width, but more so the grooves in the top of the slug

[Strafe]

The K4.1 is the block that came in second only to the Innovatek block in a waterblock comparison here (man I hope that link works). Of course for some reason they're all stuck on 3/8 over there but they make some great stuff.

[Brad]

after thinking about it, instead of just having <> shapes throughout it, why not do some funny stuff, maybe some /_\ or many other shapes, like a super dense alpha pal 8045 maybe

[EMC2]

Strafe - the link worked A few things I noticed in reading over the article - they use a 1048 pump and 3/8" tubing for the testing. (they also did testing with a 1005 and 1/4" tubing) They used a heat load of only 80W. Lastly, out of all the blocks they tested, the difference from first place to last place was less than 1 degree C. If you throw out the original Senfu block, the spread is only 0.5C. Considering potential test and measurement error sources, basically a dead heat (ewwwwww, bad pun!).

It does provide some insight into the thinking of the German wc market though (medium heat loads, small hose diameters, small pumps).

[Brad]

maybe that chart is c/w instead of temp differance?

anyway, I think the germans have really cool blocks, but they seem to be about 1-2 years behind us in radiators, tubing, pumps

[icel0rd]

Amen to that Brad. From what I have seen so far, I don't think they can touch the rads available out here. The blocks are pretty cool though.

Has anyone checked out one of those "heatkiller" blocks ?

Ya know, now that I think of it, this discussion has gone off the topic a little I did order that digi cam though. I think its the best one on the market for the money it costs. I will send you guys some mug shots of my toy's progress when it comes in next week sometime.

-Ice-

[mx-6*]

What camera did you get dude?

Did you buy it online? I've seen some pretty good deals compared to buying in town. I got mine at digitaldealz a few months ago.

[EMC2]

Brad - from reading the translation of the article and looking at the individual test results (you have to click on each block to see the results) it definitely appears to be core temp differences not C/W difs.

[Makaijin]

Unless I'm wrong, but those acrylic waterblocks and the res are originally from a german company called www.cooling-solutions.de