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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#1 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 365
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The pump is already barbed for 3/4 hose so I was thinking it was probably designed to pump through 3/4 hose (yes I know brilliant observation
![]() Last edited by psychofunk; 12-02-2004 at 02:05 AM. |
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#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 383
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I dont think parrallel loops are ever a good idea, especially when both parts of the loop need good cooling.
That iwaki has huge head, might as well use it. |
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#3 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: london, england
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you can certainly stretch 1/2" tubing over them with a bit of work so you could just use 1/2" on the outlet etc., and larger tubing just from res to inlet.... |
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#4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Los Angeles
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Yeah you are right it is 5/8" and i plan to do exactly as you suggested as well as run in series. I do however have another question, the label on the pump states "voltage......100...V". Does this mean that if I connect to my regular house current that I am actually over volting the pump? Or am I fine plugging it into a regular US house outlet?
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#5 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Midwest
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that model was made for 100v.... I have a MD-30RZ 100v myself
yes, if you plug it into line power you are overvolting it I use a AC variable transformer to power my pump, can get them cheap FWIW I have adjusted voltage from 80 to 120 with neglible flow rate change but audible noise changes |
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#6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: North Carolina, USA
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Was the pump originally for 100V at 50 Hz?
Is so you are OK running it at 120 V at 60Hz. That is really pretty common. I assume it is a synchronous induction motor and not rectified to DC, etc. If all of this is true then you will see a performance increase from running the pump on US power. The motor will be fine -the current is limited by inductance and your Volts / Hz ratio is fairly constant -so you are not really over voltaging the motor. The synchronous RPM of the motor will be faster. (More Volume and Pressure) If it is a mag drive then there is some point where the pump will decouple from the motor and "slip" , but I suspect that that point is well beyond where you will be running. Again many designers assume that 100V / 50Hz motors will be run at 120V / 60 Hz. If the pump wasn't originally designed for 100V / 50 Hz please disregard this post. ![]()
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#7 |
Cooling Savant
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I am not sure but the pump sticker says (sorry no digi cam)
IWAKI MAGNET PUMP MODEL MD-20RZG-1 MAX CAPACITY-------------------------13.5/15-------------l/min MAX HEAD-------------------------------4.6/6.7-----------------m RATED VOLTAGE-------------------------------------100--------V RATED POWER CONSUMPTION------------------43/59------W RATED FREQUENCY--------------------------------50/60-----Hz INDOOR SINGLE PHASE INDUCTION MOTOR CAPACITOR-RUN POLES---------------2 VOLTAGE----------100----------V FREQUENCY-----50/60-------Hz CURRENT------0.54/0.71------A OUTPUT-------------20---------W SPEED--------2650/3000----rpm RATING-----------------------CONT. CAPACITOR-------3.5----------uF INSULATIONCLASSE THERMALLY PROTECTED DO NOT RUN PUMP DRY BLAH BLAH BLAH LTD ETC ------------------------------------------------------------ So looking at it then would that (in the case where there are two numbers seperated by a "/" ) mean at 100v / 120v. I still actually want to find one of those " AC variable transformer" that brucoman mentioned so that I could play with undervolting. Any recommendations on a good one of those things to get. You have to pardon my ignorance but when I did a google I got nowhere so I will be basically asking the same question of one of the guys at home depot and I have more confidence in you guys. Thanks. Last edited by psychofunk; 12-06-2004 at 12:28 AM. |
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#8 | |
Cooling Savant
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#9 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: North Carolina, USA
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Variac is a common brand of variable transformer.
As is Superior Electric's Powerstat.
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#10 | |
Cooling Savant
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Also, thanks cool for the name brand suggestions I am on to google right now. |
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#11 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jun 2004
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speed is determined by frequency and slightly by voltage.
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#12 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
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The speed is determined automatically. The motor naturally tries to sync with the frequency of the AC sine wave. (Hence "Synchronous Motor")
The speed (in RPM) will be [the frequency (in Hz) x 120] / the number of poles of the motor stator (The way the motor is wound). You would then multiply the result by some constant <1 to compensate for motor "slip". Slip has to exist for the motor to function. I say constant, but this number will vary (a little) with motor load, etc. For Instance @ 50 Hz: (50Hz * 120) / 2 Poles = 3000 RPM -->Your motor nameplate says 2650 RPM at 50 Hz so you have .883 as your slip factor for real world RPM. For Instance @ 60 Hz: (60Hz * 120) / 2 Poles = 3600 RPM -->Your motor nameplate says 3000 RPM at 60 Hz so you have .833 as your slip factor for real world RPM. edit: By running a synchronous induction motor at reduced voltage and constant frequency (as you would be doing with a variable transformer) you are allowing the motor armature to "slip" more thus reducing the motor speed. The angular velocity of the AC current around the stator stays the same -you are just letting it outrun the armature by reducing the magnetic coupling between them. (You are reducing the motor torque)
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Jack of all Trades, Master of None. Last edited by CoolROD; 12-06-2004 at 12:57 PM. |
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#13 | |
Cooling Savant
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#14 | |
Cooling Savant
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Now -if the pump is fan cooled then excessive speed reduction will not allow the pump motor to cool properly and motor temperature will increase. You will just have to be the judge of that -just see how hot it gets.
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#15 |
Cooling Savant
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I have started shopping for a variable ac transformer and I notice that they come in different ratings. I found one for $50 bucks that matchs what I want perfectly (0-120v) but it is rated at 2 amps. Is that sufficient for my use, the Iwaki MD20RZ? All I plan running on it is the pump.
Hey are these things noisey??? What about input voltage? Some say 110v and some say 120v? Sorry for the stupid questions but I know nothing about anything electrical other than it hurts. I am looking at these two, what do you think? http://store.yahoo.com/webtronics/ensavat.html http://www.davesbargainoutlet.com/Vi...=PowerstatL10C Last edited by psychofunk; 12-19-2004 at 08:41 PM. |
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#16 |
Cooling Savant
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I like the first one (The Blue one). -More power, nicer, cheaper, voltmeter, etc.
Remember you can also use this as an (incandescent) light dimmer, soldering iron controller, etc. Either input voltage is fine. Either unit is more than than you need WRT power, but fine for sure. (Look at the amps capacity -you only need >1A) Bigger won't hurt and could be more useful for "other" projects. These are (nearly) silent. There may be a very slight 60 Hz buzz. Avoid over-volting your motor (you will have this capability). You won't gain anything.
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#17 |
Cooling Savant
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Thanks alot cool you have been a great help with this. As for overvolting, the only way that is going to happen is by accident, I am looking to run at 75-100v. I will run at 100v and reduce until I see a temp drop then bump it up a notch and keep it there perm. Oh yeah and the fact that thing has an input voltage of 110v is not a problem?
Last edited by psychofunk; 12-19-2004 at 11:59 PM. |
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#18 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
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110 input is what you want to plug into your house outlets
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#19 |
Cooling Savant
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You will easily see 10 volts difference in 110 AC from different locations in the US. Some of the plants I operate in have 130 no-load volts. I don't think I have ever seen <100 VAC. I usually see about 115 VAC. In addition: While power utilities tightly regulate frequency -they spec voltage +/- 10% to be "normal" for some typical applications -and more variance for others.
I did find this link edit: sp
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#20 | |
c00ling p00n
Join Date: Jun 2002
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Below is all you need, thanks to greenman who turned me on to this for a 100v MD-30Z
Quote:
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#21 |
Cooling Savant
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CoolRod:
During heavy summer load season we often see 98-105 incoming in our datacenter BTW PacificCorp is a large customer of ours! nikhsub: ya a resistor would work, but I like a vari trans to play with lowered voltages with my my 100v MD30_RZ |
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#22 |
Cooling Savant
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And it (xfmr) is more efficient.
Series resistor is definately the cheaper route, but you have to know what voltage you want to end up with. Still you could buy several different ones to try... Nik: are you getting 100V with that 16 ohms?
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Jack of all Trades, Master of None. Last edited by CoolROD; 12-20-2004 at 12:30 PM. |
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#23 | |
c00ling p00n
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#24 |
Cooling Savant
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I believe I aimed for about a 12 volt drop when I speced the resistor.
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