rad/HC for dual 120 low flow fans?

[Twill]

<EDIT>

I decided to change the topic of this thread instead of making a new one...dont know why, but the logic was there at some point. Anyhoo...

There is an radiator/autoparts shop near me that will custom make a radiator/heatercore. But I wouldnt know what to ask for as in materials, type, fin structure etc.

I dont know how expensive it would be or if they cut down old HC's or make new ones...but if I were to go ask, and was looking for a rad for low flow fans, what would I be asking for

Twill

--Original pre-edit message------------------

Hey guys,

I'm trying to figure out what rad/heatercore to use with a two low flow 120mm fans.

I'll probably be using the new DDC pump for reference. I havnt chosen blocks yet but will probably include (or build up to) CPU, chipset/GPU, PSU and maybe HDD

The space I have to work with is approx 6inches by 10 7/16ths (but I cut cut up to almost 11 inches)

Budget is more important that performance...I will saccrifice the two degrees for a $60 price difference

any suggestions on a Rad/HC and where to get it in Canada?

Thanks
Twill

[MadHacker]

Originally Posted by Twill

I'm trying to figure out what rad/heatercore to use with a two low flow 120mm fans.

the thinner the core the better it would be for low air flow.

Originally Posted by Twill

The space I have to work with is approx 6inches by 10 7/16ths (but I cut cut up to almost 11 inches)

I have an HTML list of heatercores here

Originally Posted by Twill

Budget is more important that performance...I will saccrifice the two degrees for a $60 price difference

as for price... get a list of a few you like and go to your local auto parts store...
that all I can recomend.
Expect to pay anywhere from $50-$90 for a new core...

[bobkoure]

Originally Posted by Twill

...Budget is more important that performance...

Try the heatercore for a mercury montego (about 6x6x2 finned area), about US$30 at auto parts stores around here (and the inlet/outlet are the right size to "just use" with 1/2" ID tubing - or you can cut them off shorter if the bends are inconvenient). Use a coolingworks shroud (about US$10) to attach a single 120mm fan, preferably on the pull side. If your fans are really low power, you can try stacking them on the pull side - this'll work best if they're not right on top of each other but have some space. I've used a "fan frame" (old 120mm fan I've removed the "guts" from) to space them, but you could just use threaded rod, nuts and wrap the space between with duct tape or flashing or something.

So... for US$40 plus fan(s) you get decent cooling, low noise if your fan(s) is/are low noise. I've had best performance/noise results with stacked nexxos 120mm fans, but they're about US$30 each, which would blow your budget. You could try a single panaflo L1A at 7VDC (or two of these stacked at 5V) for a reasonable cost/noise/cooling compromise and maybe go for the more expensive fans as budget permits...(?)

[Twill]

Thanks for the reply...

I am using two 120mm Yate Loon fans (Nexus fans before re-brandind and mild modification...and priced at only $7US)

I wanted to use them side by side so was looking for something longer.

Here is a question tho, there is a company here that makes custom radiators/heatercores (or claim to) would it be possible/efficient to have them make one and if so, what do I ask for?!

[bobkoure]

There's a lot of info about that here - but you have to search/read.
It might be worth starting with this post from Cathar. There's another whole thread mostly around Cathar's having had a very large frontal area, very thin, wide spaced fin, single pass radiator custom built - but I can't find it at the moment.
BTW, there are some thin automotive heater cores, but all the ones I've seen have had the fins spaced too closely together, to the point that I went back to a montego core for the latest machine I've built (for a friend).

BTW, where did you get the yate-loon fans? Have you compared them side-by-side with the nexos ones? Yes, I know the nexos have "Yate Loon" molded into the frame, but I'm wondering what differences there might be between standard ones and for-nexos ones, other than being orange, of course...

[Twill]

The Yate loon's just showed up in a couple of random places recently...compgeeks has them, isellsurplus has them.

I'm following the comparrisson on SilentPcReview.com Here and it seems that a whole bunch of new fans are showing up that might be nice silent fans, including one aluminium one. It seems that the orange (a different orange) 120 yate loons are holding up against the nexus fans....at a much lower price....and with a higher CFM (although also higher db at that speed)

I'll pull up cathar's posts if I can find them. thanks

Twill

[Ruiner]

check out the end of this thread: http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=10790
The 240v AC fans mentioned there offer great, quiet flow at 110v and only cost 10 bucks each.

[Twill]

I'm quite happy with the yate loon style fans, dont need that serious cooling.

I'm more concerned about the heatercore/rad. I'll give the people a call and see if it's even possible (money wise) to get a custom rad, it would be pretty cool tog et it to work.

Thanks for the link

Twill

[samualt]

From everything I have read you want something simular to the Fedco 2-342 (GDI 399090, 1972 CHEVROLET TRUCK C10 1/2 TON SUB 2WD, 9.5"x6.125"x2") heater core. You can get it at any auto parts store for about $20 total (U.S.) I just got one yesterday.

The reason you want one like that is:
1. It's a single pass. You will see the in/out on either side and the water doesn't make any U turns and such. This increases flow rate tremendously. A double pass unit can kill head (the ability to pump water uphill) by as much as 70%. Double pass units usually have the two connectors on the same side.
2. The in/out is diagonal to each other and this causes more of the fins to be used. Otherwise the first few fins may be the only ones transfering water because of the low pressure of the pumps we use (as opposed to the much larger pressure in a car cooling system.)
3. It's copper and will match your water block so there is no electrolysis.

Things to change about it:
1. Would be nice to have a larger unit for outside-the-box cooling. A nice 12"x7" size would be great!
2. It would be better if it were 1" to 1.25" thick instead of the 2" thick. This would be for better airflow with the slower fans we use as opposed to the heavy duty blowers on most cars.
3. It would be nice if it already came with .5" ID (Inside Diameter) barbs (the hose connectors) that most of us are using.

You'll have to ask someone else about fin spacing and such.

Just my 2 cents, and I could be wrong