Finally water rig sorted **pics inside**

[BAcon]

ok got it all setup finally...*** AQX 50z came DOA so is off back to the US anytime soon, in the meantime managed to find a brand new unused mcp600 rev2 for £35inc (exact same pump as the AQX) so am now using that instead

here are some pics for you all of my finished rig, bearing in mind it has now fully blead and there are no bubbles on the Tline tube

ok



and with case door off



and some other pics if your interested


closer with side off

6002

pump

close

rad barbs

side view again

front

pump close

Thats a few of them, cpu temp is good it seems, 35C idle and hits 42C load (stock volts)
if i up to 1.8v it hits a massive 48C hehe, nice and cool tho with the heating on which i never use it can go to 50C (the chick needs the heating on as she gets cold) eh whats cold lol

Gpu needs a remount as temps are about 15C over what they should be, still cooler than air tho lol, but will remount later on

what do you think?

[Cranky]

nice job m8. the only thing that concerns me is that real tight bend going back to the pump intake.

[Sc0rian]

Nice clean job, like the pump and cpu block.

Good job dude

- S

[Tempus]

Nice looking. Very clean lines on the case.

You using straight water or do you have a clear additive?

[divardio]

V.nice, what hardware are you running, do you plan to OC?

[msv]

Eeeh, don´t You have any fan guards on the top of the case? Do You place the computer so You can´t reach the top of the computer anyway, or do You simply keep Your fingers away from where they don´t belong?
Otherwise, cool rig!
regards
Mikael S.

[BAcon]

have some purple ice in there used about 1oz, not sure if i needed more or not, maybe ill add a bit more if you think so, there is about 1.5L of water int here

fan guards that i bought overlapped so i left them out until i get time to search for some that dont, lol i dont know anybody stupid enough to stick there hand into a 120mm fan


I am at the minute up to 270 x 10 with 1.8v on my 3500NC using the neo2 and some Gskill LE

full load 48C according to speedfan

[pHaestus]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5-0573_IMG.jpg

That's one of the most ridiculous things I have ever seen. Get rid of that pretzel!

[msv]

Originally Posted by pHaestus

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5-0573_IMG.jpg

That's one of the most ridiculous things I have ever seen. Get rid of that pretzel!

Watercooling can be very educative. After some googling I´ve learned what a pretzel is.
OK, besides from looking weird and the T-connector for the filling can be placed otherwise in the loop, how much will that pretzel affect overall cooling? It´s a quite likely point for future kinks, so it might affect flow.
regards
Mikael S.

[BAcon]

After a remount for the HL im now at a chilly 37C idle and 42C load at 456/1.17 after a few hours of HL2, im still on the stock GT bios as well, so when i give it more juice im hoping for 465+ artifact free on the core

Why is it rediculus? its looped unkinked, im sure 10inches of extra tube wont decrease the cooling or restriction, it was either that or kinking the tubing and taking the card down with it

ill get some more tubing in the future when i next drain it and maybe reroute a few things and see what difference it makes, not a lot im guessing

[pHaestus]

I do my best to eliminate all useless head loss in loops. It just makes no sense. You are thinking only about the head loss from 10" of tubing, but you also have to consider the head loss from those turns. Looking at them I'd guess the flow resistance to be somewhere between a 45 degree sweep and a 90 degree sweep. Take a look at this page and do the math:

http://www.procooling.com/articles/h...s_with_h2o.php

Call it K = 20f for every 90 degree turn or K=80f for your pretzel. Now consider that K = (L/D)f, so L/D = 80. Your tubing ID is 0.5", so your 10" pretzel has an effective length of 160" long. Now of course there would be SOME resistance from just the 10" of tubing (10/0.5 or 20f). So your little 10" pretzel has at least 8x the flow resistance it should if it were just a straight run of tubing.

Now does this actually make a difference in final CPU temperature? Sure it could. Is it going to be 4-5C? Nah probably not. I'm obsessive though and like to do things correctly

[BAcon]

Originally Posted by pHaestus

I do my best to eliminate all useless head loss in loops. It just makes no sense. You are thinking only about the head loss from 10" of tubing, but you also have to consider the head loss from those turns. Looking at them I'd guess the flow resistance to be somewhere between a 45 degree sweep and a 90 degree sweep. Take a look at this page and do the math:

http://www.procooling.com/articles/h...s_with_h2o.php

Call it K = 20f for every 90 degree turn or K=80f for your pretzel. Now consider that K = (L/D)f, so L/D = 80. Your tubing ID is 0.5", so your 10" pretzel has an effective length of 160" long. Now of course there would be SOME resistance from just the 10" of tubing (10/0.5 or 20f). So your little 10" pretzel has at least 8x the flow resistance it should if it were just a straight run of tubing.

Now does this actually make a difference in final CPU temperature? Sure it could. Is it going to be 4-5C? Nah probably not. I'm obsessive though and like to do things correctly

interesting perhaps a re plumb is in need then, i have a g4 on order so when that appears ill see what i can do with the tubing and see if the tline will fit at the top by the rad outlet

Cheers for the info dude

[krazy]

Looks nice and clean. I also recommend ditching the loopdy-loop thing coming off of the video card. I would try making the length of hose between the T for the fill tube and the pump inlet a lot shorter. There's no reason not to have the plastic of the T and the plastic of the pump inlet barb physically touching eachother. This would also virtually eliminate two size changes in the plumbing where the water has to do some acrobatics to keep flowing, which should theoretically make the water flow around the loop with a little greater ease.

If shortening that section of tubing to nothing still isn;t enough to get a reasonable curve off of the video card block, I would slide the pump further forward. It looks like you have about a half-inch of space before the pump would run into that drive cage. Heck; you could even raise the pump up a bit with a scrap of wood or a bracked fabricated of sheet metal and stick the butt-end of the pump inside the opening of the drive cage for even more room. If you do this, I would highly recommend using some kind of vibration-dampening material like a block of soft rubber to offset the pump. No reason not to make things quieter and kill some vibration in the process, right?

[BAcon]

thanks for the suggestion, dont really want to move the pump as i have bolted the pump down onto some 10mm neoprene and then to the case (left that gap so the HD cage can still be used in the future)

id rather move the Tline nearer to the rad outlet and get a good curve from the GFX card to the pump that way


like i said when my G4 arrives ill have a replumb then, and see what can be done

[BAcon]

edit: double post