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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Up in the boon'dox
Posts: 18
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Well water cooling ram has always interrested me an I have always though that there was a abetter way than what i have seen so i came up with my own design to be used with chilled water. With chilled water the top will be copper unless someone knows of a clear low temp plastic as insulation wont be used because I am making a nitrogen sealed box so that you can see the block and all.
There is another block for the back side and the last two screw holes screw them together and the notches in the back ar to go over the locking tabs. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Duke Last edited by Dukemurmur; 09-29-2005 at 08:06 AM. |
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#2 |
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of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
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What if you have two sticks of RAM?
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#3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 41
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#4 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2005
Location: US
Posts: 123
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__________________
Intel is the way to go. |
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#5 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 41
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#6 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Up in the boon'dox
Posts: 18
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That is why it is for DFI NF4 there is enough space to fit them in.
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#7 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: U.S.A = Michigan
Posts: 1,243
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http://www.directron.com/blaframcooler.html
A copper version of these? Just need to add a copper spiral turbulator to your version. Like the fact you are using copper instead of aluminum, much better. I'd also suggest you use a drill press to dimple the surface the water flows over for more surface, may as well get all the performance you can while going to this much trouble. |
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#8 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Up in the boon'dox
Posts: 18
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That is where I got the basic design idea but look at mine and look at theres they have to epoxy theres on i dont...also the fins will provide more that enough cooling for ram as mine are going to be used with chilled wqater not normal water.
Duke |
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#9 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: U.S.A = Michigan
Posts: 1,243
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Directon carried ones have 4 screws to hold them, 1 per corner.
Did not note fins in your first post, and dimples would be easy. Just throwing out ideas bro. EDIT: Duh! Now relized you were refering to the attachment to the RAM stick, not how the block it's self is held together. Still pretty easy to hold with a number of differant clip types I can think of. Or very small clamp. Last edited by Blackeagle; 09-27-2005 at 08:35 PM. |
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#10 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: South Africa
Posts: 82
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Hmm Nice!
![]() Been looking into this. Theres a big debate as to wether its worth it: Most agree that air cooling (HSs & fan/s) is as good if you use normal water cooling. Unless you are going for quiet. Chilled water seems to give good results. ![]() |
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#11 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: southeast asia
Posts: 164
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What do you do to the Hose so that it would not bend the RAMs, and how would you stick the block to the RAMs?
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#12 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: california
Posts: 429
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I think the new patriot ram style heatsink with some good airflow is sufficient. |
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#13 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 41
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#14 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Up in the boon'dox
Posts: 18
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Those work like crap look at the surface area the water covers it has to go up the Cu then the 1/16th thick plate touches where the water goes through if you ask my that isnt ANY better than a heat spreader there was a guy that made something like that on a spanish forum...i know that i put TT ram sinks on my UTT and a fan and i gaind 5 MHx just from that so water migh gain 1-2 more MHz so with chilled water I am hopping for about 20+ over air and to it is worth it.
Dragon BTW those block do look nice... |
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#15 |
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It definitely wasn't worth it for DDR, but DDR2 has a power output that could be as much as three times higher: we'd have to revisit that question, but I think that the answer is still going to be: "no".
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#16 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Up in the boon'dox
Posts: 18
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Not for TCCD no it isnt but for high voltage highe speed tight timmied UT or BH-5 2 me it is well worth it. I mean TCCD speeds with UTT timmings.
I am thinking about change the inlets making them more of an elipse but still have the 1/2 area so that i can make the side tops of the blocks thiner so that they can be more easily fir in DC boards...Not that i plain on going comercial with these only because it will be pain for me as i am in school...but i have a few revisions already thought up for them that i might implemint today but idk. Dragon |
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#17 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: South Africa
Posts: 82
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I also have BH-5 RAM, so am watching this thread Dukemurmur.
![]() When can we expect some Benchies? Found 2 small, matched HSF + Pelts off of P1 233 CPUs and am thinking of perhaps using them on a milled copper RAM cooler thingy. PS: After reading Bigben2K's post it looks as though this may become mainstream some time in the future. People laughed when I first WCd my CPU. ![]() Last edited by Dunno; 09-28-2005 at 04:00 PM. |
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#18 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 95
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I built waterblocks for my DDR RAM back in the day. It was fun but ultimately overkill (and actually quite dangerous as I found out).
I had two sticks of Corsair PC2400 RAM (yes...this was before the PC2700 standard was finalized). I was running -30'c coolant and was able to run that RAM at 210MHz or so on my old Abit KT266a motherboard (remember that chipset ![]() ![]() However, I ended up killing one of the sticks when the assembly ended up pulling the RAM right out of the board when the system was running. I found out the hard way those little tabs that hold the RAM in arent really too strong ![]() Basically, its not worth it if you cant secure the RAM in place. My $0.02... ![]() |
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#19 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 41
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#20 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Up in the boon'dox
Posts: 18
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My pipes are cooming in throu the lexan top so there will be downward pressuer if anything.
Duke |
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#21 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Up in the boon'dox
Posts: 18
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Well i know have a new project that i am working on here...it is d-ice cooling for the ram...i got the insperation from seeing the guy on XS that cooled his bh with phase change...so i am hoping to break the record or to maybe kill my ram...one of the 2...
Duke |
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#22 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Argentina
Posts: 2
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From Argentina, my wb for the RAM memory
before the "cromado" (chromium plating ?) sorry but my ingles is not very good ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Next to the wb for de ram of vga ![]() ![]() ![]() Saludos Last edited by Lord Murray; 04-08-2006 at 07:47 PM. |
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#23 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 141
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ser bellĂ*simo
very nice coolers and a nice ramcooler solution, though they could have been better polished before chrom-palating it. Must have been quite expensive to chrome-plate it otherwise you have somespecial ressources for that. I didn't thought of that way to arrange the fittings on the ramcoolers before, very interesting. but it could get a little messy with tubing if you use that with 4 rams. It would be nice from you to add that pics to the homebuilt blocks gallery. |
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#24 |
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I like that video card ram block idea; never seen it done that way before. Nice work!
Yeah, put it up in the block gallery: http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=9263 |
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#25 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 141
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I just finished my delrin topped DRAM Waterblock for two modules.
It features 4 3*3mm channels and a14*2mm channel in the top to reduce restriction and it has G1/4" Threads. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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