water chiller ASAP

clone · 05-13-2001, 09:54 PM

ok i will just tell you my setup now and see about what you have for ideas

111 watt tec on 600celeron at 1008
water block on elsa gladiac gts no oc
water block on northbridge of cusl2
magdrive 250gph
senfu dual radator moded to 3/8
1 gallon of liquid in system

all copper

i dont like my water temps about 7F above ambient

i want to implemt a water chiller this is what i am thinking 2inch x 7inch water block with 2 FROST-74 6.1amp 65.0watt 16.7volt tecs will this bring my temps down much if at all

what should i use for hsf on it i was thinking a alpha pal35 socket style or a alpha p3175 slot style

i have the oulet split one line for the gpu and north and the other for the cpu then they are re spliced just befor radator

should i put the chiller befor radator causing radator to warm it back up

put it right after radater then dump into res

or put it inline just before the cpu

twocpu · 05-14-2001, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by clone:
i dont like my water temps about 7F above ambient

First you need to get your coolant temperature closer to ambient. Either increase the airflow through your radiator, or get a radiator that will handle the heat load better.

If you lower the coolant temp by 7 degrees you'll also lower the coldside temperature of your peltier by approximately the same amount

jimsnyder · 05-28-2001, 01:57 PM

Chiller needs to be just before CPU. The important temp is how cool the CPU is, and you want as much heat before the radiator as possible.

imagex · 06-05-2001, 03:28 PM

i tryed it with a old water block and 72 watt pelt with a verylarge heatsink/fan and did't see much of a difference. but i made a evap system that made a difference, my cooling temp went from 98F to 74F and cpu temp 56F to 34F.

Shawn811 · 06-14-2001, 02:31 PM

I tried build a chiller with my 72Watt 40mm pelt. I had no temperature drop on my CPU as well. I blame the silly homemade chiller waterblock I made. It was a steel electrical outlet thing so I blamed the steel's low conductivity. When you tried your first chiller did you use a aluminum or copper block?

Kevin · 06-14-2001, 04:33 PM

Chillers don't work well if you expect water to merely pass through one side and come out the other side cooler. they need water to continue to circulate through them and eventually the water temp will lower significantly.

imagex · 06-14-2001, 06:57 PM

it was my first block i made ,and it was alum. i'm sure it would work better with a good copper one, but hell there was no change at all maybe 1-2f so i looked for another way and evap cooling is it! it realy cools not just move heat but cools

clone · 06-14-2001, 09:27 PM

it the chiller is 2x6 in an s pattern that is about 2 feet long if you messure it out with two 74 watt tecs

05-13-2001, 09:54 PM	#1
clone Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2001 Location: West Springfield, MA Posts: 160	water chiller ASAP ok i will just tell you my setup now and see about what you have for ideas 111 watt tec on 600celeron at 1008 water block on elsa gladiac gts no oc water block on northbridge of cusl2 magdrive 250gph senfu dual radator moded to 3/8 1 gallon of liquid in system all copper i dont like my water temps about 7F above ambient i want to implemt a water chiller this is what i am thinking 2inch x 7inch water block with 2 FROST-74 6.1amp 65.0watt 16.7volt tecs will this bring my temps down much if at all what should i use for hsf on it i was thinking a alpha pal35 socket style or a alpha p3175 slot style i have the oulet split one line for the gpu and north and the other for the cpu then they are re spliced just befor radator should i put the chiller befor radator causing radator to warm it back up put it right after radater then dump into res or put it inline just before the cpu

06-05-2001, 03:28 PM	#4
imagex Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: south FL Posts: 220	i tryed it with a old water block and 72 watt pelt with a verylarge heatsink/fan and did't see much of a difference. but i made a evap system that made a difference, my cooling temp went from 98F to 74F and cpu temp 56F to 34F. __________________ Overkill'n Overclock'n Hybrid Mobile Solutions

06-14-2001, 02:31 PM	#5
Shawn811 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 7	I tried build a chiller with my 72Watt 40mm pelt. I had no temperature drop on my CPU as well. I blame the silly homemade chiller waterblock I made. It was a steel electrical outlet thing so I blamed the steel's low conductivity. When you tried your first chiller did you use a aluminum or copper block? __________________ http://plaza.powersurfr.com/shawnscase/

06-14-2001, 04:33 PM	#6
Kevin Slacking more than your weird uncle Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: San Diego, CA (UCSD) / Los Angeles, CA (home) Posts: 1,605	Chillers don't work well if you expect water to merely pass through one side and come out the other side cooler. they need water to continue to circulate through them and eventually the water temp will lower significantly. __________________ I used to throw hot coffee all over the ass of the horse there, then whip him while he was kickin' at me. Those f***in things are crazy.

06-14-2001, 06:57 PM	#7
imagex Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: south FL Posts: 220	it was my first block i made ,and it was alum. i'm sure it would work better with a good copper one, but hell there was no change at all maybe 1-2f so i looked for another way and evap cooling is it! it realy cools not just move heat but cools __________________ Overkill'n Overclock'n Hybrid Mobile Solutions

05-28-2001, 01:57 PM	#3
jimsnyder Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 23	Chiller needs to be just before CPU. The important temp is how cool the CPU is, and you want as much heat before the radiator as possible.

06-14-2001, 09:27 PM	#8
clone Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2001 Location: West Springfield, MA Posts: 160	it the chiller is 2x6 in an s pattern that is about 2 feet long if you messure it out with two 74 watt tecs

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