Water finally set up - Frothy Water?

deeznuts · 01-08-2002, 04:28 AM

Water setup - Water is all frothy?
Hey i just finished setting up my final water cooling system. I did a test run a while back, but i didn't use water wetter. Now this is my final setup, so I did use WW, about 2 oz per gallon. Now the water is super duper frothy, and it runs through the tubes and all that.

Since I am using silicone hose, I can't really see what is going on in the tubes. I use a 10oz dubro, so I look in there, and it is frothy. Any Ideas? Does it go away with time? Only been on about 1 hour, so I guess I will wait till tomorrow. Maybe my flow is too fast, or dubro too small?

Also, I cracked the acrylic top off my spir@l, so luckily I had a spare maze2 laying around. I was pissed though, hopefully danny or fixitt can sell me a new one. I swear something is keeping me from using this spir@l, tons of incidents, one after the other. After I get it all new and spiffy I just might sell it, anyway, i'm going to start a new thread to rant about it.

deez

decodeddiesel · 01-08-2002, 11:12 AM

Whats it doing now Deez? Is it still frothy? I used to have this problem with my danner model 5, everytime my water truned frothy I KNEW I had a small leak going on somewhere in the impeller housing. Since I've gone to an Eheim 1250 I've never seen this happen again. I can tell you that frothy water is the direct result of air entering the water in or near the pump.

Fixittt · 01-08-2002, 11:23 AM

Your going to rant about the block?

When you put the top on, did you slowly tighen it down like you would when mouning a waterblock? Cross corner?

deeznuts · 01-08-2002, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fixittt
Your going to rant about the block?

When you put the top on, did you slowly tighen it down like you would when mouning a waterblock? Cross corner?

no, no, no Fixitt. i wouldn't rant about this block. i was going to rant about how i had to go through almost hell to get it working (all coincidental) and when i finally get to use it, I freakin cracked the top. i think it's my fault, overtightening. am i supposed to tighten springs all the way down? or just partly?

when i mounted it, yes it was slow cross corner tightening. but i did tighten the springs dtek gives all the way down though.

again, Fixitt, i love this block. it is my most prized possession in my system. problem is, just when i am about to get it going, something major happens, and i can't. that's why my little post about selling it, i don't know if i have the balls to put it in now, but i most likely will, shoot, i waited almost two months for it! btw fixitt, i sent you an email.

decoded, i don't think it is a leak, but how can i be sure? if you saw how my dubro was, you could see that the water entering into the res is so strong, it hits the back wall, and creates this crazy ass whirlpool looking thing. i have the inlet of the res halfway up, and the current is so strong on the back wall, the water rushes all the way to the top, and topples over like a wave. that's why i think it is the res/flow. if it is an air leak, how can i tell for sure?

deez

Brad · 01-08-2002, 05:11 PM

deez, if water is leaking, you'll find that the level of water in the res goes down over time.

why not put a bit more water into the res so that you don't get that splashing effect?

deeznuts · 01-08-2002, 05:20 PM

actually Brad, it isn't water leaking i am worried abut (no leaks *wipes sweat off of brow*) but air leaking as decoded suggested. i want to know how can i check to see if air is leaking, which i hope isn't the case, cuz i sealed the pump and everything else up like a mofock.

i can't put more water, if i do, it will splash out everytime i open up the top. it already is almost hitting the top. hmm, i will try to top it off, to see what happens.

deez

decodeddiesel · 01-08-2002, 06:41 PM

deez, it's pretty easy to get a good seal with those Dubros, just use the 3 part top with the rubber stopper and the bottom and top, as you tighten it squeezes the stopper and creates a seal. remember these tanks are designed to be leak proof inside a little RC plane while it is doing loops, barrel rolls etc. I am more worried about your pump, do yu have a Danner or a Eheim? In my dubro the water hits the opposite side with the Eheim 1250 and I have NO air in my system. I am still convinced yu have a leak in your impeller housing, try to mark your waterlevel in the dubro and keep checking it to see if it is dropping, a sure indication of a leak. Finding it is the harder part

Brad · 01-08-2002, 07:36 PM

do you need to be able to open it up when it is running?

Fixittt · 01-08-2002, 08:43 PM

U know, I had that smae problem with my intercooler setup. Had air in the system. I used the fill tube to fill it, and had to turn the case upside down, and to the left and every other which way...... Then I relized that I had plugged the fill tube. This kept it an air tight system, I removed the plug on the fill tube, and within a few hours had all the air out of the system. Is yours sealed? if so, maybe a small pin hole up top somewhere will allow any built up preassure to be released.

Just my 2 cents.

Also, I will get you a now top. No problem. what size hose barbs did U have?

Brad · 01-08-2002, 08:58 PM

now thats customer service for you.

hey fix, what sort of lead time is there on your blocks now?

deeznuts · 01-08-2002, 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fixittt
U know, I had that smae problem with my intercooler setup. Had air in the system. I used the fill tube to fill it, and had to turn the case upside down, and to the left and every other which way...... Then I relized that I had plugged the fill tube. This kept it an air tight system, I removed the plug on the fill tube, and within a few hours had all the air out of the system. Is yours sealed? if so, maybe a small pin hole up top somewhere will allow any built up preassure to be released.

Just my 2 cents.

Also, I will get you a now top. No problem. what size hose barbs did U have?

thanks Fixitt. yeah, i can't believe i finally got the system up, and i freakin crack the top, and must use a maze2 for now. i can't wait for the top, i will install that sucker immediately. i do have to contact danny though, and get one bolt for the mount. it seems my bag only had 3, i might have lost it, or never got it. and the funny thing is - NOBODY carries #8/32 x 2 1/2". can you believe that? jesus, that is one thing that got in my way, hence my comment earlier about the rant.

for everyone else, i solved the problem. it was the damn dubro. i am almost positive. i went out and bought a T fitting, and hooked it up. after less than 2 hours all air is gone. might be some bubbles, but i cannot see them. everything is fine and dandy here, yeah.

also, anyone have an Epox board? how accurate is the Thermistor? on MBM5 i have 22 ambient, and 35 CPU under load. that doesn't look to great to me. but i have a compunurse, and a thermometer next to me, they say 25 ambient and 28 load. what do you guys think? it is 8K7A with a 1.0ghz on it.

deez

Butcher · 01-09-2002, 12:12 AM

I read in the 40s on the in-socket under load, I don't have an external probe for any comparison because I'm a fool and forgot the hole for it in the block

Fixittt · 01-09-2002, 09:08 AM

U still didnt tell me what size hose barbs U got, I am thinking it was 1/2 inch.

webmedic · 01-09-2002, 09:12 AM

On my abit kt7a-raid under load my temps are about 10c over ambient (case temp not room) This is with it overclocked. The xp I used was overclocked only about 120mhz the duron I have in it now is about 200mhz over. They both give about the same temps. Not overclocked my temps drop by about 2c or 3c at full load. Oh and my insocket thermistor gives within 1c the same as my compunurse. From the article over here
http://www.voidyourwarranty.net/revi...de/index2.php3
on the asus board anyway the insocket didn't go as low and not quite as high as the in cpu diode.

Brad · 01-09-2002, 04:55 PM

the 8k7a reads a little low, but it isn't too bad, from what I have seen.

still, what is more important than your temps is the actual overclockability of your cpu. With air cooling, due to the 60mm fan moving air around you might get lower temps than watercooling, but with watercooling you will be able to go higher, simply because the cpu itself is cooled better, not the insocket thermistor

deeznuts · 01-09-2002, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fixittt
U still didnt tell me what size hose barbs U got, I am thinking it was 1/2 inch.

oh yeah, i forgot, 1/2" barbs. thanks fixitt.

Brad, are you sure the 8K7A reads a little low? it seems high to me, i'm reading like 49c under load, but my overclock is a lot higher than before. i hit 1680-1690 (still trying to find right combo) with a 1.0 Ghz, ayhja-y. vcore is 2.22 idle, around 2.10-2.15 under load. i don't trust my compunurse anymore, it just stays around 33c.

should the maze2 be warm to the touch under load? i felt the top, and it was kinda cool, felt towards the bottom, only a tiny bit warm. i guess i need to reseat it for better thermal conductivity huh? pretty good overclock for incorrect seated block. guess i'll wait for spir@l.

Brad · 01-09-2002, 06:02 PM

almost all mobo temps are low, 49C is probably about right though, looking at Joe's temps of around 40C, but with a 100w cpu, not 160w cpu

deeznuts · 01-09-2002, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Brad
almost all mobo temps are low, 49C is probably about right though, looking at Joe's temps of around 40C, but with a 100w cpu, not 160w cpu

how many watts am i using? i have radiate but for the life of me cannot figure out how to use it.

also, you think my wb is not seated right, as it never gets warm to the touch?

Brad · 01-09-2002, 08:26 PM

turn your pump off, the waterblock should heat up fairly quickly. Don't forget to turn it back on

you are using 124.4w, at 1690, 2.15v

deeznuts · 01-09-2002, 08:38 PM

thanks. but shouldn't it be warm even with the system running? i always thought the block should be warm to the touch which means it is seated properly.

deez

webmedic · 01-09-2002, 08:49 PM

Mine only gets warm if I forget to turn on the pump. After i turn the pump on it takes about 2 seconds for it to feel cool to the touch.

Brad · 01-09-2002, 08:52 PM

my maze1c gets a little warm with a 350w heatload

deeznuts · 01-09-2002, 11:41 PM

hmm, ok. anyways, i just did a swapperoo with my 8K7A and 1.0 Ghz with a Soyo SY-K7V Dragon Plus and 1900+, for $100. so i am going to try it, and see if I should keep the 8K7A, or just use the Soyo.

gonna reseat the block anyway, see what i get. i guess these old T-birds put out a lot of heat eh?

deez

Brad · 01-09-2002, 11:53 PM

I know that I honestly wouldn't upgrade from an 8k7a to anything else this side of a duallie.

But I'll be interested to see what you get with your new cpu.

deeznuts · 01-10-2002, 04:59 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Brad
I know that I honestly wouldn't upgrade from an 8k7a to anything else this side of a duallie.

But I'll be interested to see what you get with your new cpu.

i know, this decision is racking my freakin brain. should i stay with 8K7A, or should i get the Soyo, damn. seeing as i probably won't unlock the xp, i would only need to hit like 145-150 fsb to hit the max on the chip, which would be 1800. decisions decisions.

01-08-2002, 04:28 AM	#1
deeznuts Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: san diego Posts: 142	Water finally set up - Frothy Water? Water setup - Water is all frothy? Hey i just finished setting up my final water cooling system. I did a test run a while back, but i didn't use water wetter. Now this is my final setup, so I did use WW, about 2 oz per gallon. Now the water is super duper frothy, and it runs through the tubes and all that. Since I am using silicone hose, I can't really see what is going on in the tubes. I use a 10oz dubro, so I look in there, and it is frothy. Any Ideas? Does it go away with time? Only been on about 1 hour, so I guess I will wait till tomorrow. Maybe my flow is too fast, or dubro too small? Also, I cracked the acrylic top off my spir@l, so luckily I had a spare maze2 laying around. I was pissed though, hopefully danny or fixitt can sell me a new one. I swear something is keeping me from using this spir@l, tons of incidents, one after the other. After I get it all new and spiffy I just might sell it, anyway, i'm going to start a new thread to rant about it. deez

01-08-2002, 11:23 AM	#3
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	Your going to rant about the block? When you put the top on, did you slowly tighen it down like you would when mouning a waterblock? Cross corner? __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

01-08-2002, 08:43 PM	#9
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	U know, I had that smae problem with my intercooler setup. Had air in the system. I used the fill tube to fill it, and had to turn the case upside down, and to the left and every other which way...... Then I relized that I had plugged the fill tube. This kept it an air tight system, I removed the plug on the fill tube, and within a few hours had all the air out of the system. Is yours sealed? if so, maybe a small pin hole up top somewhere will allow any built up preassure to be released. Just my 2 cents. Also, I will get you a now top. No problem. what size hose barbs did U have? __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

01-09-2002, 12:12 AM	#12
Butcher Thermophile Join Date: May 2001 Location: UK Posts: 1,064	I read in the 40s on the in-socket under load, I don't have an external probe for any comparison because I'm a fool and forgot the hole for it in the block __________________ Once upon a time, in a land far far away...

01-09-2002, 09:08 AM	#13
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	U still didnt tell me what size hose barbs U got, I am thinking it was 1/2 inch. __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

01-08-2002, 11:12 AM	#2
decodeddiesel Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: classified Posts: 534	Whats it doing now Deez? Is it still frothy? I used to have this problem with my danner model 5, everytime my water truned frothy I KNEW I had a small leak going on somewhere in the impeller housing. Since I've gone to an Eheim 1250 I've never seen this happen again. I can tell you that frothy water is the direct result of air entering the water in or near the pump.

01-08-2002, 05:11 PM	#5
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	deez, if water is leaking, you'll find that the level of water in the res goes down over time. why not put a bit more water into the res so that you don't get that splashing effect?

01-08-2002, 05:20 PM	#6
deeznuts Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: san diego Posts: 142	actually Brad, it isn't water leaking i am worried abut (no leaks wipes sweat off of brow) but air leaking as decoded suggested. i want to know how can i check to see if air is leaking, which i hope isn't the case, cuz i sealed the pump and everything else up like a mofock. i can't put more water, if i do, it will splash out everytime i open up the top. it already is almost hitting the top. hmm, i will try to top it off, to see what happens. deez

01-08-2002, 06:41 PM	#7
decodeddiesel Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: classified Posts: 534	deez, it's pretty easy to get a good seal with those Dubros, just use the 3 part top with the rubber stopper and the bottom and top, as you tighten it squeezes the stopper and creates a seal. remember these tanks are designed to be leak proof inside a little RC plane while it is doing loops, barrel rolls etc. I am more worried about your pump, do yu have a Danner or a Eheim? In my dubro the water hits the opposite side with the Eheim 1250 and I have NO air in my system. I am still convinced yu have a leak in your impeller housing, try to mark your waterlevel in the dubro and keep checking it to see if it is dropping, a sure indication of a leak. Finding it is the harder part

01-08-2002, 07:36 PM	#8
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	do you need to be able to open it up when it is running?

01-08-2002, 08:58 PM	#10
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	now thats customer service for you. hey fix, what sort of lead time is there on your blocks now?

01-09-2002, 09:12 AM	#14
webmedic Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Cheney, Wa Posts: 367	On my abit kt7a-raid under load my temps are about 10c over ambient (case temp not room) This is with it overclocked. The xp I used was overclocked only about 120mhz the duron I have in it now is about 200mhz over. They both give about the same temps. Not overclocked my temps drop by about 2c or 3c at full load. Oh and my insocket thermistor gives within 1c the same as my compunurse. From the article over here http://www.voidyourwarranty.net/revi...de/index2.php3 on the asus board anyway the insocket didn't go as low and not quite as high as the in cpu diode.

01-09-2002, 04:55 PM	#15
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	the 8k7a reads a little low, but it isn't too bad, from what I have seen. still, what is more important than your temps is the actual overclockability of your cpu. With air cooling, due to the 60mm fan moving air around you might get lower temps than watercooling, but with watercooling you will be able to go higher, simply because the cpu itself is cooled better, not the insocket thermistor

01-09-2002, 06:02 PM	#17
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	almost all mobo temps are low, 49C is probably about right though, looking at Joe's temps of around 40C, but with a 100w cpu, not 160w cpu

01-09-2002, 08:26 PM	#19
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	turn your pump off, the waterblock should heat up fairly quickly. Don't forget to turn it back on you are using 124.4w, at 1690, 2.15v

01-09-2002, 08:38 PM	#20
deeznuts Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: san diego Posts: 142	thanks. but shouldn't it be warm even with the system running? i always thought the block should be warm to the touch which means it is seated properly. deez

01-09-2002, 08:49 PM	#21
webmedic Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Cheney, Wa Posts: 367	Mine only gets warm if I forget to turn on the pump. After i turn the pump on it takes about 2 seconds for it to feel cool to the touch.

01-09-2002, 08:52 PM	#22
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	my maze1c gets a little warm with a 350w heatload

01-09-2002, 11:41 PM	#23
deeznuts Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: san diego Posts: 142	hmm, ok. anyways, i just did a swapperoo with my 8K7A and 1.0 Ghz with a Soyo SY-K7V Dragon Plus and 1900+, for $100. so i am going to try it, and see if I should keep the 8K7A, or just use the Soyo. gonna reseat the block anyway, see what i get. i guess these old T-birds put out a lot of heat eh? deez

01-09-2002, 11:53 PM	#24
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	I know that I honestly wouldn't upgrade from an 8k7a to anything else this side of a duallie. But I'll be interested to see what you get with your new cpu.

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