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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums.

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Unread 07-16-2001, 10:29 PM   #1
DSREC
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Default Waterblock Choices & Idea

Alright, so I'm finally setting up my H20 system after a long long wait. I'm still a bit worried this whole thing is going to burst and get water all over the comp, then it starts smoking, then flames, then the house is on fire, and so on. Hehe
But, alright -- DangerDen Maze2 or is there anything better. Here is my planned setup:

Maze2
BlackIce Rad.
Eheim 1048(#'s?)
**Possible chiller tank**

So now, is that all going to work out here? I was reading another thread about 3/8" versus 1/2" and the pros/cons. Is it that big of a difference? What type of barbs or connections does the BlackIce and Maze2 have?

Lastly I promise -- here's what I was thinking. Obviously when you're dealing with something like H20 cooling, surface area that comes in contact with the coolant (H20) is more important than flow rate. That being said, why are all these waterblocks flat and simple back and forth patterns? I was just looking at the swiftech heatsink 462 heatsink for a second. It has a flat bottom, but then it has all those pins coming up which increase the surface area. Soo if you put 4 walls on a top on that heatsink, wouldn't that be 100x better than a regular waterblock? All the water would be flowing past the multiple pins and etc.

Thanks for everyone's help!
-Mike
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Unread 07-16-2001, 10:36 PM   #2
DSREC
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Argh.. I forgot one more question for the good ole' forum.. I was tinkering with the idea of CO2 cooling. I'm thinking a small paintball CO2 tank, some high pressure tubing or etc and a waterblock. Of course, I'm missing a compressor I assume. CO2 is cold in its pressurized liquid state (inside the tank). Now if you just skip the compressor, and have the gas just connected to the waterblock - the liquid CO2 would be in the waterblock staying cool. Now, the CPU gets hot and warms the block... I guess if the gas got too hot and expanded, then the tank would explode.. but I dont know if that'd even happen since the waterblock would be cold. Ah too much free time to think of these ideas
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Unread 07-16-2001, 11:01 PM   #3
redleader
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CO2 is only cold when it is expanding (boiling off). A waterblock filled with CO2 would be no better then a waterblock filled with water and a dead pump (it would fry the CPU). You could get a compresser in which case you would have invented a homemade air conditioner. I'd recommend a regular air conditioner or better yet a watercooled computer

The Maze2 is one hell of a block. DangerDen makes both 3/8 and 1/2 inch versions. IIRC the blackice is only 3/8 inch. So if you want a 1/2 inch system you would need a Big Mama or a standard heatercore (generally have 5/8-3/4 inch fittings). Oh yeah, the BigMama by stock is also 3/8, but for $5 extra they will mod it to 1/2.

Waterblocks need to have as much waterflow as close as possible to the CPU core. The Maze2 does a very good job of this. A standrad HS would probably pass most of the water through the fins and not the base where its need most.

There was a long thread on www.hardforum.com a few months back that discussed 1/2 vs. 3/8 in great deal. I went with 1/2 in the setup I ordered today.
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Unread 07-16-2001, 11:48 PM   #4
GuyBFF
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Definately do 1/2" now while the cost is virtualy the same. Centrifugal pumps are poor with restrictions, and 1/2" can flow twice what a 3/8" system can.

Maybe consider upgrading the pump to a Eheim 1250. Surface area is definately key, but flow rate makes a huge difference also. This unit is twice the 1048 and still nearly silent. Only consideration is you'll need a 1/2" to 5/8" barb conversion for the intake.

Also consider the D-Tek Cooler Core. If your not up to soldering barbs on a heater core, then this one is just like the Big Momma at 42.99 and comes with 1/2" barbs. It appears to look the same (although painted silver).
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Unread 07-17-2001, 10:48 AM   #5
DoeBoy
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Everybody keeps on talking about damn barbs... I am definently a newbie and what the hell is a barb? do you have a picture for it? I have seen the adapters but I have no idea what a barb is.
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Unread 07-17-2001, 11:39 AM   #6
DSREC
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Alright, so I'm definitely going to go with the following:

Maze2
BlackIce
Eheim 1250 (1/2" right?)
**Possible chiller tank*

So what do I need to connect the 1/2" stuff to the BlackIce and etc? Just some different adapter threads or similar?

Also, I've seen very very small compressors but have no idea where to find them online. Anyone have a clue? -- still just tinkering with the idea of a homemade AC unit minus the freon. Why do they use freon also? Colder when expands? I know its a "heavy" or rather a gas with a high density but eh...
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Unread 07-17-2001, 01:07 PM   #7
krp
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Doeboy,

This is a hose barb - for connecting flexible tubing to other plumber's nightmares:



The "size" of these is stated as two numbers: the TUBING inside-diameter for the barbed end and the PIPE-thread size for the other end.
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Unread 07-17-2001, 06:30 PM   #8
futRtrubL
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Concerning a possible compresor system. You really can't use CO2 as it doesn't have a liquid phase at the pressures you'll be dealing with, so pretty much untransportable. Also you would be able to get really cold temperatures with it but only until the lump on the core disociates away, then you need to keep shovelling more on, plus you can't make your own, high pressure needed to do that.
2nd, don't try a compressor system without freon, it only works because the freon vaporises when heated, this takes away alot of heat. You can't get air to liquify using normal compressors, and using the little expantion will get you almost no heat transport.

Edward
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