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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums.

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Unread 05-07-2002, 08:25 PM   #1
BobMont
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Default Inexpensive watercooling setup

Well, I'm thinking of building an inexpensive water cooling setup.

I've been looking at the Via Aqua 1300 (from becooling).

I haven't picked out a waterblock or a radiator yet, anyone know of any good deals on either? (Its for a socket athlon, and I want the system to be completely 1/2")
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Unread 05-07-2002, 09:35 PM   #2
Cyco-Dude
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heres a guide for an inexpensive H2O setup
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Unread 05-08-2002, 12:02 PM   #3
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I'm sure if you were to email BeCooling and ask, they could install 1/2" barbs into the UnaBlock for ya.. Can't come close to the price of the UnaBlock when your doing a budget system.
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Unread 05-08-2002, 12:26 PM   #4
BobMont
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UnaClocker: so you recommend the Rio 180 or the Via Aqua 1300?

And as for the UnaBlock, it's just a plain 'U' right? How effective is it compared to something like the Maze 1?
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Unread 05-08-2002, 01:21 PM   #5
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Go with the via aqua they are a litle cooler running.

As for the block, not exactly but close enough. The think about that block is that it will be good enough for something to play with if you are on a tight budget.
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Unread 05-08-2002, 02:21 PM   #6
BobMont
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So for the most part, its better to have the pump in line, not submersed in the res (since it lets out heat into the water), right?

But on the other hand, it's easier to have it in the res, and it takes up less space.

Still trying to decide how I want to do it.

Last edited by BobMont; 05-08-2002 at 02:29 PM.
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Unread 05-08-2002, 02:29 PM   #7
BobMont
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Oh, and UnaClocker... your cheap setup... the pump is 1/2" the WB is 3/8" (guessing), and the Rad is 5/8"... isn't that a real bitch to work with, I mean, having to change the Rad to fit the hose size is pretty common (tho I hear a few car rads that are 1/2"... if I remember correct one was a toyota camry, forgot what years), but having every compenent in your WC setup a different fitting is just a little ackward to me.

Oh, and wheres a good place to get a heatercore.... since the bad thing is, I live in an area where mechanics, etc. are just comeplte ****ing asshole piece of shits (sorry if that offends anyone.. but I just mean in my area)... they would proabbly try to charge $100 or so for the rad you say is about $20. And someone told me not to get one from a salvage yard, because it will be rusted, and not work well.
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Unread 05-08-2002, 02:40 PM   #8
BobMont
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oh, sorry, heres the correct list of Heatercores around 5"x5" (close to 120mm)

geo tracker 5-1/2 x 5-3/4 x 1-1/4 (1/2" in/out)
toyota corona 5-1/4 x 5-1/2 x 2 (1/2" in/out)
suzuki samuri 5-1/8 x 5-5/8 x 1-1/4 (1/2" in/out)

Can't promise you that the info is correct, but I'm pretty sure it is.
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Unread 05-08-2002, 02:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by BobMont
So for the most part, its better to have the pump in line, not submersed in the res (since it lets out heat into the water), right?
RIGHT!

A Ford Escort heater core is around $23.00 at Auto Zone, but not 6 X 6 I think it is 6 X 10.

Also Tygon is cheaper at US PLastics if you are buying 10'. I am changing my silicon over to tygon so I am going to be selling some fresh silicon with the used stuff soon.

Silicon is next best to Tygon in my opinion.
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Unread 05-08-2002, 02:58 PM   #10
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Bobmount-

I went over to the Fedco site (heater cores) and looked up the Geo tracker heater core, ah, it is $96.00!

That is not for the inexpensive cooling rig. Even a Chevette heater core is pricey. If you want a huge heater core the Caprice in around 1975 is about $26.00 or so. But it is 11" tall!

Also the late model heater cores are aluminum, and you may be mixing copper (block) with aluminum. I know water wetter is suppose to neutralize this but I did not go there.
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Unread 05-08-2002, 03:02 PM   #11
BobMont
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Well if I was going with a real cheap setup, i was thinking of just getting Vinyl tubing from someplace such as home depot. Think it's worth getting silicon or tygon for such an inexpensive setup?
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Unread 05-08-2002, 03:07 PM   #12
BobMont
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And Jim, actually I wanted a 'small' heatercore with 1/2" in/out. And I didn't look at any prices.
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Unread 05-08-2002, 03:08 PM   #13
BobMont
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Oh, also Jim, actually the waterblock (the UnaBlock) is aluminum
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Unread 05-08-2002, 04:10 PM   #14
Jim
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BobMount-

I am not familiar with that block, so that works out as both are aluminum.

If you don't have it here is a link to Fedco, good to use for reference.
Fedco

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Unread 05-08-2002, 04:12 PM   #15
BobMont
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nice site... how realistic are the prices there compared to most local shops? (roughly)

since, obviously, I'm looking for the cheapest (but effective) heatercore thats of reasonable sixe, hopefully about 5" x 5".... and, of course, it would be a really nice added bonus if it has 1/2" in/out

Last edited by BobMont; 05-08-2002 at 04:15 PM.
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Unread 05-08-2002, 04:18 PM   #16
Jim
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I think the prices are on the high side. Go to Google and run up 'Auto Zone' and check out that site for prices. But, be careful the prices on the site don't match the prices in the Auto Zone stores.

Don't ask, I don't know why!
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Unread 05-08-2002, 08:31 PM   #17
BobMont
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Hmm, there any case you guys recommend? (preferably one thats not too expensive, either comes with out a PSU, or with a good/quiet PSU, and good size to fit this watercoling setup, specifically the radiator)
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Unread 05-08-2002, 09:42 PM   #18
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I like the Antec cases using a model 840 now that has the Antec 412W power supply.

But I wish I had room under my desk for the next taller Antec's full size server case. (sorry forget the model #) Then I could easily fit the radiator inside the case.

There are other cases available, some one hopefully will add to the thread about that. I don't think you can go wrong with the Antec power supply. For example my 3.3 v rail has deviated only .02 volts according to MBM. Thats steady voltage.

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Unread 05-09-2002, 11:30 AM   #19
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Hmm.. Let's see.. First.. The UnaBlock is kind of a stretched U design. Water enters, travels an inch to the right, and exits. So it's a very flat bottommed U.
It is aluminum, and I haven't made a direct comparison of it to a Maze2 yet because I have it running on a closed loop system that is a royal PITA to fill/bleed. From what I can tell, it's performing wonderfully. AND I have it setup with a BlackIce classic.. All copper radiator, no worries because I have water wetter in the water to eliminate corrosion. I did recommend Royal Purple in my buyers guide, so they won't have a problem either, if they don't take shortcuts.
I recommend the Via Aqua pump, because it has a better reputation than the Rio, and because it has a higher flow rate. I have my UnaBlock setup with a Rio pump, and with that highly restrictive radiator, the water comes out in a trickle. (Still does the job though.. )
As for buying a heater core, 9 out of 10 mechanics are assholes, but auto parts stores are auto parts stores. Most of them are part of national chains, go to one of the national chains, and start asking there. Fedco's site lists everything way over the price it should be. As a last resort, Carparts.com might be able to hook you up, I know they used to list the heater for a '77 Ford E100 Van at like $13.. But they were out of stock, and they'd usually give you a call and try and talk you into something else.. Still a good way to get a good deal, ask them to give you any other heater core they have, just do it at the same $13 price.
As for cases, name brand = not budget. I usually go into the cheapest computer store I can drive to (about 35-40 miles from my house), and buy the cheapest case they have. Last I heard, that was about $23. heh. Saves shipping, and it is functionally as useful as any name brand case. The only thing you might want to do is buy a decent power supply for it, seeing as how they always come with a deer.
How is Tygon with UV? Zoson says his dye-lite isn't lighting up inside the Tygon as well as it did in his silicone tubing. But then, he is using Blue dye-lite, so that probably has alot to do with it.
Different size fittings.. Well, if you run silicone or tygon, it won't be an issue. But being a budget setup, you'll probably use vinyl. Like I said in the article, you'll just have to be inventive. For the radiator, what I did was go to the hardward store, and pick up a pair of 3/8" hose barbs, and pick up some JB Weld (it's an epoxy with steel in it), and glue those hose barbs onto the ends of the tubes coming from the radiator. Worked great.
Hmm, I think that's all the questions.. Hope that helps.
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Unread 05-09-2002, 12:14 PM   #20
BobMont
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Well, I gotta say, i have to be one of the stupidest people... I just realized that my current case is almos tperfect for what I want. The Codegen 9001 case, it runs at about $40 + ship with a 300w PSU (I'm still using that PSU in the comp... it doesn't seem to be that great of a PSU, but my computer is 100% stable, and I can even overclock as far as my MB will do... which isn't far at all). Whats nice about the case is, the whole bottom has CDROM slots, and has a HD cage screwed in the middle of them... but it might get a little tight, since the case is not too tall, and the top is sorta 'wasted' because above the door there is a spot for 1 FD and 1 CDROM, and theres abotu a gap the size of another cdrom, and I am going to have atleast 2 cdroms and 1 HD, but I will probably also have a reobus, and another HD (or another 2, for either a raid 0 or raid 5 setup). I'm pretty sure that it wont have enough room for all that + a heater core .. but with just 2 cdrom and 1 CD, I should be able to fit a desent sized heatercore (about 7" x 6" I estimate).. with the completely vented front, I would get some really good airflow threw the heatercore.

Anyway, i'll do some measurements later, and see what kind of room the case would allow.

As for the tubing, with Silicon or Tygon I would be able to stretch it to fit a variety of fittings?

Hmm, also, what are the fittings on the UnaBlock?
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Unread 05-09-2002, 02:59 PM   #21
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Yes I have 1/2" silicon tubing attached to 1/2" and 5/8" barbs no problem or leaks.
Not sure about tygon yet, not installed so far.
Why 2 CD Roms?
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Unread 05-09-2002, 03:14 PM   #22
BobMont
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Well, thats easy enough, 1 DVD (16x Lite On), 1 CDRW (32x or 40x Lite on).

On a good note, I just noticed that the digidoc 5 has mounting for a HD.. so I could essentially have the DigiDoc + HD in the top CDROM slot on the case, and put the other 2 drives in th door (eliminating the HD rack). But still I do intend on doing a real nice rad setup... maybe not with this comp then.
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Unread 05-09-2002, 03:16 PM   #23
BobMont
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Oh Jim, what kind of radiator you got? (since I do prefer antec cases much more over this one... well, this case is actually pretty nice... but antecs also come with a great PSU)

Did you have to do any case mods to fit the radiator?
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Unread 05-09-2002, 04:15 PM   #24
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I have the Antec 840 with a Ford Econoline (van) 1985 heater core.

My heater core is out back of my case.
Like this:



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Unread 05-09-2002, 04:17 PM   #25
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Here is the completed setup:

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