GF4 block design

Misantrophia · 08-10-2002, 07:02 PM

I want to watercool my GF4-TI4600, but here in the Netherlands there is no place to buy the DangerDen block or the Swiftech block. So I decided to design something myself.

The block will be mounted to the GF4 using the 4 holes around the GPU.
Holes will be drilled into the base so that little 7mm pins form.
The block has the option to attach a peltier of max 5cm by 5cm.

Has anyone got any comments or ideas for my waterblock?

bigben2k · 08-10-2002, 09:38 PM

Nice.

Consider using a honeycomb pattern, for the drilling part: you'll get smaller pins, but you should have more of them (I think?)

Also, 3mm for the baseplate is OK, but then keep in mind that the ideal flow for it will be fairly high: think 300 GPH effective flow rate. If you can pull it off, you'll have most excellent cooling.

Good Luck!

Can O' Beans · 08-11-2002, 12:07 AM

My opinion

It's a good design. I've seen a few people use this, and it performs pretty good, expecially with how easy it is to make (just need drill press).

I think you might want to put the barbs in the middle on the ends, instead of offset as it is now. You can probably get rid of the 2 rows of holes on each side, as hardly any water will be flowing over there. Basically, put the barbs along the centerline, and just have the 6 main rows.

I'd probably take a Dremel to the "pins" after drilling to round them off a bit. Turbulence is good, but not if it comes from a lot of flow restriction.

Misantrophia · 08-11-2002, 09:19 AM

Would a thicker baseplate be better?

Misantrophia · 08-11-2002, 09:25 AM

double post

bigben2k · 08-11-2002, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Misantrophia
Would a thicker baseplate be better?

Better? No. Safer? Yes.

In other words, if you can't achieve 300 GPH effective flow, then you won't get the cooling that you want. With a thicker baseplate, you'll be able to achieve decent cooling, even with 100 gph.

You've got to choose. Do you want to be watercooled, in quiet peace, or are you shooting for a very large overclock?

Misantrophia · 08-11-2002, 12:33 PM

After reading some of #Rotor work about VDFC I updated my design. Look in my 1st post.

The pump I have is an Eheim 1048. And overclocking is my hobby, but I focus mainly on the CPU, but I already know that when my GF4 is watercooled that I can't resist to crank the speed up.

futRtrubL · 08-11-2002, 02:45 PM

Don't forget about the RAM, without the GPU's HSF blowing on them they may get hotter.

Edward

Misantrophia · 08-11-2002, 03:07 PM

At the momen tI havethis cooler and it blows only over 2 ram chips, and the temp difference between those 2 and 2 without airflow is not that great. and if the temp increases I can always add cooling, passive or active.

08-10-2002, 07:02 PM	#1
Misantrophia Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 6	GF4 block design I want to watercool my GF4-TI4600, but here in the Netherlands there is no place to buy the DangerDen block or the Swiftech block. So I decided to design something myself. The block will be mounted to the GF4 using the 4 holes around the GPU. Holes will be drilled into the base so that little 7mm pins form. The block has the option to attach a peltier of max 5cm by 5cm. Has anyone got any comments or ideas for my waterblock?

08-10-2002, 09:38 PM	#2
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Nice. Consider using a honeycomb pattern, for the drilling part: you'll get smaller pins, but you should have more of them (I think?) Also, 3mm for the baseplate is OK, but then keep in mind that the ideal flow for it will be fairly high: think 300 GPH effective flow rate. If you can pull it off, you'll have most excellent cooling. Good Luck! __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

08-11-2002, 12:07 AM	#3
Can O' Beans Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Pa - USA Posts: 264	My opinion It's a good design. I've seen a few people use this, and it performs pretty good, expecially with how easy it is to make (just need drill press). I think you might want to put the barbs in the middle on the ends, instead of offset as it is now. You can probably get rid of the 2 rows of holes on each side, as hardly any water will be flowing over there. Basically, put the barbs along the centerline, and just have the 6 main rows. I'd probably take a Dremel to the "pins" after drilling to round them off a bit. Turbulence is good, but not if it comes from a lot of flow restriction.

08-11-2002, 09:19 AM	#4
Misantrophia Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 6	Would a thicker baseplate be better?

08-11-2002, 09:25 AM	#5
Misantrophia Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 6	double post

08-11-2002, 12:33 PM	#7
Misantrophia Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 6	After reading some of #Rotor work about VDFC I updated my design. Look in my 1st post. The pump I have is an Eheim 1048. And overclocking is my hobby, but I focus mainly on the CPU, but I already know that when my GF4 is watercooled that I can't resist to crank the speed up.

08-11-2002, 02:45 PM	#8
futRtrubL Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Kingston, Jamaica Posts: 204	Don't forget about the RAM, without the GPU's HSF blowing on them they may get hotter. Edward

08-11-2002, 03:07 PM	#9
Misantrophia Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 6	At the momen tI havethis cooler and it blows only over 2 ram chips, and the temp difference between those 2 and 2 without airflow is not that great. and if the temp increases I can always add cooling, passive or active.

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