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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#1 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 109
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well i was wondering what the channels were made of... and to my surprise, it's brass?!?:eeek: but the fins are copper
i did some searching (google ![]() #1 this is a really good read... linky this is kinda of a shock to me since i thought they're made of copper ![]() sorry if some of you know this already, but i would have never figured it. |
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#2 |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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The type of brass used is 70% copper.
Nice link! |
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#3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: home
Posts: 365
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Pretty much all brass is 70% copper. It's the remaining stuff that differentiates among "breeds". And pretty much all brass has comparitively lousy heat transfer (at least compared to aluminum and copper). But don't sweat it. Heat transfer is more than simple conductivity. Wall thickness also plays an integral role. On the upshot, brass has better anti-corrosive properties than aluminum. In the end, you need to either find a manufacturer's data sheet on performance or try it out for yourself. It may not be so bad after all.
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#4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: North of France
Posts: 198
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All rad with channels as BM or all BI family (BIPRO, BIX,..) are made with brass (tanks too only fins are copper). Copper is a very mallable metal and cannot be used for rigid support structures in radiators but only for fins to provide good thermal transfer..
You'd need a thick tube (1mm) to make channels in copper as those heat exchangers used in refrigeration units (Rad Cube) Brass makes it rigid enough to hold the core structure but it is thin enough to efficiently conduct the heat to the copper fins, thickness of these channels is 0.05 to 0.07mm (BI family) so thermal transfer is very very quick between channels and copper fins. And there's no problem at all ![]() |
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#5 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Hollister, CA
Posts: 44
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So how would a full aluminum car radiator compare to a heater core, since it's brass/copper? Seems that all the best car rads out there are Al.
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#6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Oxford University, UK
Posts: 452
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To be honest, I think almost all of the radiators are aluminium.
This is because they are big, and copper's density is 8920Kg/m3 compared to ALuminium of 2700Kg/m3. That would add a lot of weight to the front of the car. |
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#7 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2002
Location: CA
Posts: 78
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most cores are brass for mainly cost reasons. have you compared costs between Al to brass/CU radiators? if you use a '94 RX-7 radiator, a C&R Al rad is $600 new, & a stock brass/CU one is ~$190 brand new. of course, racers use Al because it works better on their cars. this is not to say that you would see similar differences using Al radiators on a PC, since your PC isn't generating 250F water temperature (a reasonable assumption i believe).
this is similar to the the Al vs steel case argument. you know what Al case ppl say about lower temps, but i read that someone did thermal calculations & found it would take temperatures that make the Al case glow white before a 3-4C difference is realized.
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StrongShockModz |
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#8 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Hollister, CA
Posts: 44
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So it's more of a condition on the quality and construction of the radiator and less of the materials used that determines performance, and for PC purposes the effects are negligible almost?
The only reason I'd buy an Aluminum case is because they look so cool and are lighter, not for temp reasons. My Chenbro Junior is pretty hefty with water cooling inside. |
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#9 | |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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#10 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Pa - USA
Posts: 264
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I knew the end caps of the heatercores were brass, but never knew about the channels themselves.
I guess it doesn't matter as even with the brass, they're real good performers for PC watercooling. |
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#11 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az
Posts: 1,264
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Copper is very soft stuff. In order to make those channels Cu, they'd have to be very thick. By using brass they can make them much thinner. This means more airflow and thless material between the air and water.
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#12 | |
Thermophile
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Just shut up ;) ...
Posts: 1,068
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Cheap Bastids ain't they?... |
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#13 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az
Posts: 1,264
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With good brass you're still getting over 100w/mk. Copper is under 400. So you could make it of Cu, but it would have to be thicker. Make it much thicker and its not going to conduct much, if any better. Plus you've got the space wasted by the brass supports that could have been used for fins.
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#14 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Hollister, CA
Posts: 44
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Ok, on the Blackice Extreme, it says the tubes are copper (via Danger Den's site), as well as the fins.
So what's the difference in thermal conductivity between brass and copper? Would the Dtek Customs heater core (and it's variations) be better or worse than the BIX if the tubes are copper as listed? Anyone done any temp testing on these? |
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#15 | |||
Thermophile
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az
Posts: 1,264
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Also, although Detk does sell a heatercore, they did not invent the heatercore nor are they even the first company to sell it. Its probably better to just say heatercore (since there are better ones then the DTek anyway). |
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#16 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Hollister, CA
Posts: 44
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Ok, I guess it's obvious that I'm a noob to these forums and I better pay more attention to the main page of the site. Sorry.
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