PC-65 and DTek Rad (placement?)

[GenGoku]

does anyone have a suggestion where i can mount the DTek Radiator in my Lian Li PC-65?

I need the floppy drive cage as there are two HDs under it and the other 5.25" bays are used too. The clearance under that cage is only 5" and width is ~7.5". I've read some people bolting it on top of the case, but i thought that's where the airtrap was supposed to go.

I plan on using:

1xDTek Radiator
2x120mm panaflo (push/pull)
1xWW Block (when available)
1x1250 Eheim
1xT-Fitting for air trap/refill
?xClearFlex

At first i was going to use a BIX but more posts say it's overpriced and DTek's heatercore is better. (maybe because it's bigger?)

Later after becoming familar with watercooling, i'll put blocks on the GeForce4 and Northbridge (nVidia).

Watercooling newbie needs help.

[sn_85]

well the air trap doesnt take that much room so you'd be able to fit a T-line up there with a rad no probs i dont think. and i've seen some ppl have T-lines that dont even go up to the top so it's possible to fit a rad up there.

[GenGoku]

my (low) understanding was that the airtrap was supposed to be the highest part of the system. if the rad is at the same hight, can air bubbles still flow out of the rad, then back up the airtrap?

[Sproket]

Actually there shouldnt be any air in the rad or your system loop at all.

Use the T connection to access your system and for more water volume.

The T connection in my system is the same height as the barbs on the rad. The T connection is below my waterblock. Works just fine.
I would make sure T connection is on the same water line as going into your pump.

Here's a pic:

http://www.chadandjodi.com/watercool/newwater.jpg

[GenGoku]

Thanks Sproket.

So your rad is bolted under the roof of your case?
If so, is the rad flush against the top of the case then the shroud then fan sucking air into the case?
Also, what kind of covering did you make to the top of the case (to let the fan on the rad suck air in)?

One thing i don't understand is when they say bleeding the system. do they mean taking all the water out and putting in a fresh supply? There was another term they used whenever talking about bleeding the system but that word escapes me right now.

BTW, does procooling have a watercooling FAQ?

[UnloadeD]

If I'm not mistaken pc-60 and pc-65 are same on the inside. I doubt you'll be able to fit the dtek rad in there and keep the 3 bays. Also if you decide to put it in the top, the frame is in the way and you'll haveta remove parts of it to possibly make it fit there. I went with a heater core for a Chevy LUV truck and had to modify the barbs on it to get it to fit.

peace.
unloaded

[GenGoku]

Originally posted by UnloadeD
If I'm not mistaken pc-60 and pc-65 are same on the inside. I doubt you'll be able to fit the dtek rad in there and keep the 3 bays. Also if you decide to put it in the top, the frame is in the way and you'll haveta remove parts of it to possibly make it fit there. I went with a heater core for a Chevy LUV truck and had to modify the barbs on it to get it to fit.

peace.
unloaded

You're right, pc-60 and pc-65 are the same inside (mine just comes w/ a window; ya i'm lazy hehe). I know this sounds pretty ghetto, but would the rad setup take a significant performance hit if it was tilted under the cage to fit? I doubt i have the tools to mod a Chevy LUV heater core to fit the pc65--the only tools i have now are philips and flathead screwdrivers and a dremel (on the way).

btw, did you fit it in front or on the top of the case?

[Sproket]

Actually my Rad sticks out a 1/4" outside the case. It goes Rad, shroud, fan, pulling air into case.

Bleed the system of all AIR.

How I prep my system, is I take a 5 gallon bucket. Add my purple ice to distilled water. I usually use 2 gallons of h20.

First I put rad under water by itself. I then take a foot long tubing and while tube and rad is under water I put tube onto both barbs of rad. Then I pull out rad and shake air to top of the tube loop. Then I put rad and tube back under water, pull tube off under water and then put tube back on barb ends of rad under water and pull out. Shake again, make sure your shaking the rad w/ the tubing facing up, if no air present then you rad is free of air. Set that aside.

Then take the rest of your system, pump, water block, and tubing that at this point is ready to go, meaning it put together and clamped and put it under water in the bucket and run it and get rid of the air. Keep an eye on where the 2 end of tubing for the rad are. keep them together, shake water block a little to get any air out. When air is all removed, turn pump off, keep everything under water, hold on the 2 hoses for the rad with left hand, get rad and put it under water then remove the loop hose on rad hold the water in, then connect the 2 hosing for system to rad. Gently pull out of bucket and make sure neither one of those 2 hosing comes off of rad. Then clamp those 2 hosing on rad and your done.

One time one hose came off of rad and I had to start all over. man was I pi$$ed.

Oh well that how I do it. That way you have a system free of any air and it is bleed all the way out.

[GenGoku]

Sproket,

Great tutorial. I'll be sure to bookmark this thread

btw, would you happen to have pics of your rig?

[Sproket]

www.chadandjodi.com/watercool

the last pic is the one of my system.

[JSimmons]

There's no video card in your system...