Maze2 mounted more efficiently

[pHaestus]

I converted my setup to 1/2" and quickly realized that with the thicker tubing it was going to be a PITA to tighten the stock mounting system down. I had also never really cared for the nylon stuff anyway, so I decided to change it out. I got some 8/32 x 2.5" screws with bolts at Lowe's and then used 2 8/32 nuts tightened all the way to the end of the screw as spacers. Then I slipped these screws through the waterblock and motherboard holes and put a nylon washer on the backside. From here you mount it just like the regular maze2: tighten the nuts in a diagonal fashion. Here's the finished job:



There is enough clearance for the side panel to still close, so it was a success I should mention that eyecannon (from a different forum) gave me the initial idea and that the holes on my A7V-133 were a very tight fit for the 8/32 bolts so I had to take care that the block was actually making good even contact with the core.

[ 11-12-2001: Message edited by: pHaestus ]

[decodeddiesel]

sweet dude, same thing I do with mine, I think it's a lot more assuring to have 4 steel bolts holding your waterblock down than 4 nylon ones. Nice pics too

[jetjaguar]

nice job man ..

[dantheman]

DUDE! GET THE DUST OUT OF YOUR NORTHBRIDGE. Ok, I am done with yelling now. Good idea, but are you really supposed to crank down that far on those bolts? I thought you were supposed to leave gap inside of the springs so that they hold down with a specific force. There looks like there is more liabilty of hurting the core with that method there.

[Kevin]

Yah hehehe the AGP slot and northbridge are rather dusty, but great job with the waterblock! Looks good!
-Kevin

[pHaestus]

I noticed the dust but I was out of compressed air and so I didn't bother with cleaning out the heatsink. I am moving the system to a new case in a couple of days (Lian Li PC70) so I'll clean everything then.

As far as the spring compression goes, I have installed/uninstalled my waterblock many many times and never had an incident with the extra pressure. On the contrary, I saw a 4-5C drop when I started cranking them all the way down. As long as you are careful to make sure the block is flat before you start and tighten incrementally in a diagonal fashion I think that the extra pressure is not a danger. I do know 2 people who fried TBirds from not clamping down the Maze2 enough on the other hand.

[Sled_Dog]

Cool man. I need to cut a spot for my nylons I hate when those things get lose and you have to remove the board to tighten them properly

[decodeddiesel]

sled dog, ditch the nylons they suck. Not only is it about impossible to mount your MAZE straight (those things always get bent and s***), they will stretch out over time. Seriously replace them with the machine screws pHaestus mentioned, you will be pleased with the results.

[UnaClocker]

This is a really nice idea.. I don't know why I didn't think of it. Solves the problem of not having enough room around the block because of all the hoses. I think I'll try that trick in the NanoCube project..

[Kevin]

Originally posted by UnaClocker:
I think I'll try that trick in the NanoCube project..

If nVidia will ever get their shit together and release some nForce microATX boards...
-kev

[pHaestus]

If you do decide to do this, then take a look at the holes around your motherboard. If they are of the smaller variety (like my Asus) then get 6/32 x 2" screws and some extra nuts. You can again use 2 nuts on the end as spacers, but after you put the screw through the Maze2 then add another nut and tighten it down. The 6/32 screws will fit easily through the motherboard holes and so you can just align all the screws and slide the block into place with the case standing upright. I was amazed how much easier this made things. It is really easy to get the block squarely mounted, and the springs have to be slightly compressed to fit on the 2" screws so as soon as you put a nut onto them they help keep the block mounted properly as you tighten it.

[Joe]

Ive seen that done before but it was just for demo. That is a nice idea though.

the only thing I dont like about cutting into that area of the case is causing some structural weakness and flex.

I saw on the pro/mini that any time you cut into that back plate you make it possibly a lil more shaky.

I am planning on some major metal work for DH3 Rev2 that involves cutting away alot of metal. Looking at different ways of making the structure of the case more solid, Thinking of making an actuall frame inside the case to make it more solid.

[pHaestus]

I think it would depend on the case Joe. My Antec (SX1030) is 1 mm steel throughout, and I noticed no difference at all when I cut that hole. With my PC70 this may be an issue.

[UnaClocker]

You know, I was sitting here thinking about this. I'm not so worried about the case strength immediately, because as you remember, I cut a hole like this in Little Stealth, and cases don't get any thinner than that one. What does worry me is I change motherboards every 3-4 months, and no two Socket A boards have the CPU socket in the same place... See the problem? I wonder if you couldn't just leave the springs on top, bring the screws up from below, and just drill 4 holes to get at the heads of the screws with a screwdriver, and tighten through the 4 small holes.. Might get you some more life outta that case if your like me.

[Joe]

Una why not cut out the entire area, and just buy some sheet metal to use there, that way every time you swap a board you just put a new peice of sheet metal in that place, and cut it to match the board.

[Tweekster]

One thought...why not cut the hole slightly smaller, just inside the bolt group..drill 4 holes into the back panel matching the MOBO, make 4 small spacers between the MOBO and back panel and run the screws all the way though the back panel, spacers, MOBO and WB....this would allow good clamping force and give additional support to the WB and hose arrangement...taking the load off of the MOBO.......

[UnaClocker]

That's a good idea too.

[pHaestus]

using the back of the motherboard tray would work but it will be harder. You probably would have to find smaller springs with a stronger tension because otherwise you won't be able to get the side panel back on...

[UnaClocker]

Leave the springs on top of the block...

[gmat]

..or get a Yeong Yang Cube case

[Arcturius]

Or if you're really worried about the board flexing, put a thin piece of neoprene or closed cell foam under the socket, and a piece of 1/8" alum. under that so the bolts can pass through it.

Even better, drill and tap the backing plate, and put 6-32 threaded rod into it with some loctite, so you have the bolts always hanging out the front of the mobo, but connected to a stiff backing plate. It'll put only compression on the mobo, and no twist. Plus, all the bolts will always be lined up perfectly. If you really didn't want the thing to shift, you could even stick the insulation and the plate to the mobo with some goop or something.

You're keeping your chip cool enough that you don't care about the small amount of cooling ability that you'd lose by insulating the back of the mobo, right?