Going springless on the waterblock mounting

CheeseBall · 05-29-2003, 11:05 PM

I have my setup up and running w/ my custom block I made. I'm using the steel mounting kit for the Maze2 from dangerden. My block is a little taller then most and I have a Y fitting joining the 2 outlets. These two things together make it a little tricky getting my one outlet line (coming off the Y) where I need it to be (the reservoir). Right now I just have the res outside my case w/ the side panel off. I have the springs tighten down to where they're almost fully compressed but there is still quite abit of flex when playing w/ the tubing.

I see three main options:
1) Using an L fitting right after the Y fitting. This would help alot in not bending my tubing so much, which would mean my block isn't being tweaked too bad.
2) Not joining my 2 outlets w/ the Y until just before my reservoir (or just getting rid of the Y all together and having two inlets into my res).
3) Mounting my block w/ out the springs and bending my outlet to the max w/ out kinkage.

I don't like 2 because that would mean more tubing hanging all around my case, and more clutter. And I would have to cut an extra hole in my res if I didn't join it back up w/ a Y. Although maybe this would work the best (hopefully I have enough tubing for it).
I don't like 1 that much because I know the L fitting will kill some flow (I have 5/8" fittings on most everything except the Y). Is using an L fitting that big of a deal, or should I not worry about the flow loss?
As for 3, mounting w/ no springs might be abit dangerous, and then on top of that I will have a 3" bend radius on my outlet. Am I just asking for trouble?

Please let me know what you think the best course of action is at this point and why. I am using clearflex60, pump is a maxijet1200 if anyone cares.

jaydee · 05-29-2003, 11:49 PM

All the blocks I have made and the hundreds of mounts I have done over the years I have never used springs. Yet 95% of the time I get a near perfect imprint of thermal compount with it evenly squished out the sides. Once you do it a few dozen times you can start to feel when it is leveling off on each corner. Also I uses a thick soft rubber washer on the back of the mobo where the bolts go through. Helps level a bit to.

CheeseBall · 05-29-2003, 11:58 PM

So if I do go w/ a no spring mount, how much do I still have to worry about the amount of force the tubing is putting on the block one way or another?

jaydee · 05-30-2003, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by CheeseBall
So if I do go w/ a no spring mount, how much do I still have to worry about the amount of force the tubing is putting on the block one way or another?

Wouldn't worry to much. The bolts themselfs will do most of the support. It you pull down on the tubbing the top 2 nuts and bolts will take most of the force. Just make sure you don't over tighten the nuts and try your best to keep them level.

I never had a problem before. I have put a lot of pressure on the block from side force. Even picked the mobo up by the block and swung it around before (wouldn't recommend doing this with hardware you might still use) and the block didn't budge.

05-29-2003, 11:05 PM	#1
CheeseBall Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Colorado Posts: 176	Going springless on the waterblock mounting I have my setup up and running w/ my custom block I made. I'm using the steel mounting kit for the Maze2 from dangerden. My block is a little taller then most and I have a Y fitting joining the 2 outlets. These two things together make it a little tricky getting my one outlet line (coming off the Y) where I need it to be (the reservoir). Right now I just have the res outside my case w/ the side panel off. I have the springs tighten down to where they're almost fully compressed but there is still quite abit of flex when playing w/ the tubing. I see three main options: 1) Using an L fitting right after the Y fitting. This would help alot in not bending my tubing so much, which would mean my block isn't being tweaked too bad. 2) Not joining my 2 outlets w/ the Y until just before my reservoir (or just getting rid of the Y all together and having two inlets into my res). 3) Mounting my block w/ out the springs and bending my outlet to the max w/ out kinkage. I don't like 2 because that would mean more tubing hanging all around my case, and more clutter. And I would have to cut an extra hole in my res if I didn't join it back up w/ a Y. Although maybe this would work the best (hopefully I have enough tubing for it). I don't like 1 that much because I know the L fitting will kill some flow (I have 5/8" fittings on most everything except the Y). Is using an L fitting that big of a deal, or should I not worry about the flow loss? As for 3, mounting w/ no springs might be abit dangerous, and then on top of that I will have a 3" bend radius on my outlet. Am I just asking for trouble? Please let me know what you think the best course of action is at this point and why. I am using clearflex60, pump is a maxijet1200 if anyone cares.

05-29-2003, 11:49 PM	#2
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	All the blocks I have made and the hundreds of mounts I have done over the years I have never used springs. Yet 95% of the time I get a near perfect imprint of thermal compount with it evenly squished out the sides. Once you do it a few dozen times you can start to feel when it is leveling off on each corner. Also I uses a thick soft rubber washer on the back of the mobo where the bolts go through. Helps level a bit to.

05-29-2003, 11:58 PM	#3
CheeseBall Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Colorado Posts: 176	So if I do go w/ a no spring mount, how much do I still have to worry about the amount of force the tubing is putting on the block one way or another?

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