Cleaning Old System - In with New -PICS

Shreder-X · 07-19-2003, 01:53 PM

The setup as of right now the Res. Hanging onto the case

My thinking on the best placement for the Rad.
Sweet look case right

7/28/03 - Just a little note i have done my research and it appears my memory sucks ass Corsair TWINX512-3700PT i am running it at 250mhz FSB 3.0ghz with cas at 3-8-4-4 timings. Will not go any farther

seems everyone has this problem which is bullshit. My temps are good though still 40c at 3ghz i would love to get this going but memory is now holding me back.

Ohh and i know i have the pump running to the waterblock which is bad.. i just forgot the order i hooked the tubes up when i set this up at midnight last night after work. I will have it radiator waterblock res pump probably.
UPDATE: Well i've gotten everything running in some sort of order.. first without the watercool setup now i just started it up first time still trying to figure out how to fit it all in the system.. but i will add pics soon with the current setup. Getting avg. 40c temp on my 2.4c no overclock though i only have one 120 vantec stealth on my rad which takes two. I have two 90cfm fans coming. The cleaning with lysol and pinesol almost got my tubes clear again pretty damn close. My waterblock on the other hand just took hand scrubbing of the aluminum casing and leaving the copper the way it is. I relapped it with 600 wet/dry paper highest i could get at lowes. looked better. Now i will leak test the setup overnight.

P.S - On to a mobo questions. I have a abit is7 with corsair twin 3700 running and my 2.4c proccessor i ran through the cas timmings down to 2.5-5-3-3 was my lowest ability to run clock. That is without touching ddr voltage and just testing each slot putting down one and starting. I have GAT on auto it has like turbo, street racer and F1 settings. Help me to understand what to do now should i change the FSB from the 200 its running at now like 201 etc. slowly up? or should i increase voltage and try to lower timings?

I am changing over to a new system and with that comes changing the watercooling setup with new radiator and tubing and resevoir. The old system served me well but it has got to change. The only keeper is the Swiftech MCW5000 waterblock but it was very dirty and it had to be cleaned so i read up on cleaning systems in the forum and went with the lysol pinesol distilled water combo and am rinsing through my old system right now i have some pics and i will update as i get farther along with this change over project and the cleaning.

The Pieces of Swiftech MCW5000 Block apart 1
The Pieces of Swiftech MCW5000 Block apart 2
The Pieces of Swiftech MCW5000 Block apart 3
The Pieces of Swiftech MCW5000 Block apart 4
The Pieces of Swiftech MCW5000 Block apart 5
The cleaning proccess running 1
The cleaning proccess running 2
The cleaning proccess running 3

pakman · 07-19-2003, 09:09 PM

also take a look inside your pump. I just recently swapped out pumps, and even after the previous pinesol cleansing (which cleared the tubes), there was a nice layer of greenish/white on inside of the pump (kind of like what the inside of your swiftie looks like). I think the pinesol didn't do a complete job as I'm starting to notice a slight film on the fill tube... I am guessing the new BIX2 rad which I recently installed has added something to my coolant mix...

edit: either that or, maybe my swiftie MCW-50 is the culprit (alu/copper mix). Both Maze3 and Z-chip blocks are clear. Or possibly the residue from the algae/bacteria treatment I am using (made for humidifier water tanks). If the tubes cloud up quickly again, i will take everything apart for a thorough cleaning incl. taking apart WB's and using a water jet to flush out the rad.

as for lapping, I think 600grit wet/dry sandpaper will suffice. I think most people consider anything above that overkill. key is to use a flat block or surface for sanding.

MMZ_TimeLord · 07-21-2003, 09:09 AM

For lapping the block, I personally go at least to 1000 grit wet/dry (in the wet mode). And, yes, a flat block (preferrably glass or marble) works best for that.

As for the resedue, I'd suggest something with citric acid in it as it should not harm the brass, copper and aluminum in your system, but should be able to to cut through the "film" you are seeing on the block. Any of the orange based cleaners should do.

You may want to preheat the water/cleaner solution before filling the system for cleaning as it will give it an edge in breaking up that stuff.

Good luck!

pakman · 07-21-2003, 09:40 AM

if the cloudy tubes starts again, this system is getting a full hot enema...

Shreder-X · 07-27-2003, 08:49 AM

bump

pakman · 07-27-2003, 10:58 AM

getting cloudier... but I'm not ready for a good cleaning yet...

about to start on another watercooling system based on a shuttle xpc case...

07-19-2003, 01:53 PM	#1
Shreder-X Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Clarkson - Potsdam NY Posts: 24	Cleaning Old System - In with New -PICS The setup as of right now the Res. Hanging onto the case My thinking on the best placement for the Rad. Sweet look case right 7/28/03 - Just a little note i have done my research and it appears my memory sucks ass Corsair TWINX512-3700PT i am running it at 250mhz FSB 3.0ghz with cas at 3-8-4-4 timings. Will not go any farther seems everyone has this problem which is bullshit. My temps are good though still 40c at 3ghz i would love to get this going but memory is now holding me back. Ohh and i know i have the pump running to the waterblock which is bad.. i just forgot the order i hooked the tubes up when i set this up at midnight last night after work. I will have it radiator waterblock res pump probably. UPDATE: Well i've gotten everything running in some sort of order.. first without the watercool setup now i just started it up first time still trying to figure out how to fit it all in the system.. but i will add pics soon with the current setup. Getting avg. 40c temp on my 2.4c no overclock though i only have one 120 vantec stealth on my rad which takes two. I have two 90cfm fans coming. The cleaning with lysol and pinesol almost got my tubes clear again pretty damn close. My waterblock on the other hand just took hand scrubbing of the aluminum casing and leaving the copper the way it is. I relapped it with 600 wet/dry paper highest i could get at lowes. looked better. Now i will leak test the setup overnight. P.S - On to a mobo questions. I have a abit is7 with corsair twin 3700 running and my 2.4c proccessor i ran through the cas timmings down to 2.5-5-3-3 was my lowest ability to run clock. That is without touching ddr voltage and just testing each slot putting down one and starting. I have GAT on auto it has like turbo, street racer and F1 settings. Help me to understand what to do now should i change the FSB from the 200 its running at now like 201 etc. slowly up? or should i increase voltage and try to lower timings? I am changing over to a new system and with that comes changing the watercooling setup with new radiator and tubing and resevoir. The old system served me well but it has got to change. The only keeper is the Swiftech MCW5000 waterblock but it was very dirty and it had to be cleaned so i read up on cleaning systems in the forum and went with the lysol pinesol distilled water combo and am rinsing through my old system right now i have some pics and i will update as i get farther along with this change over project and the cleaning. The Pieces of Swiftech MCW5000 Block apart 1 The Pieces of Swiftech MCW5000 Block apart 2 The Pieces of Swiftech MCW5000 Block apart 3 The Pieces of Swiftech MCW5000 Block apart 4 The Pieces of Swiftech MCW5000 Block apart 5 The cleaning proccess running 1 The cleaning proccess running 2 The cleaning proccess running 3 __________________ Running: Lian Li PC-62 (In Retro Spec i guess longer is not better then taller) ABIT IS7 + Intel 2.4C at 3.15 on 5/4 Divider. OCZ 3700 Gold 2x256mb Danger Den RBX Black Ice Extreme 2 Via-Aqua 1300 - One year and still sorta kicking This setup was ran continually for 6 Months and not one problem! Last edited by Shreder-X; 07-28-2003 at 07:19 PM.

07-21-2003, 09:09 AM	#3
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	For lapping the block, I personally go at least to 1000 grit wet/dry (in the wet mode). And, yes, a flat block (preferrably glass or marble) works best for that. As for the resedue, I'd suggest something with citric acid in it as it should not harm the brass, copper and aluminum in your system, but should be able to to cut through the "film" you are seeing on the block. Any of the orange based cleaners should do. You may want to preheat the water/cleaner solution before filling the system for cleaning as it will give it an edge in breaking up that stuff. Good luck! __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

07-27-2003, 08:49 AM	#5
Shreder-X Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Clarkson - Potsdam NY Posts: 24	bump __________________ Running: Lian Li PC-62 (In Retro Spec i guess longer is not better then taller) ABIT IS7 + Intel 2.4C at 3.15 on 5/4 Divider. OCZ 3700 Gold 2x256mb Danger Den RBX Black Ice Extreme 2 Via-Aqua 1300 - One year and still sorta kicking This setup was ran continually for 6 Months and not one problem!

07-19-2003, 09:09 PM	#2
pakman Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: WA State Posts: 76	also take a look inside your pump. I just recently swapped out pumps, and even after the previous pinesol cleansing (which cleared the tubes), there was a nice layer of greenish/white on inside of the pump (kind of like what the inside of your swiftie looks like). I think the pinesol didn't do a complete job as I'm starting to notice a slight film on the fill tube... I am guessing the new BIX2 rad which I recently installed has added something to my coolant mix... edit: either that or, maybe my swiftie MCW-50 is the culprit (alu/copper mix). Both Maze3 and Z-chip blocks are clear. Or possibly the residue from the algae/bacteria treatment I am using (made for humidifier water tanks). If the tubes cloud up quickly again, i will take everything apart for a thorough cleaning incl. taking apart WB's and using a water jet to flush out the rad. as for lapping, I think 600grit wet/dry sandpaper will suffice. I think most people consider anything above that overkill. key is to use a flat block or surface for sanding.

07-21-2003, 09:40 AM	#4
pakman Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: WA State Posts: 76	if the cloudy tubes starts again, this system is getting a full hot enema...

07-27-2003, 10:58 AM	#6
pakman Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: WA State Posts: 76	getting cloudier... but I'm not ready for a good cleaning yet... about to start on another watercooling system based on a shuttle xpc case...

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