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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#1 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Southern California
Posts: 177
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I finally got the rest of my watercooling parts and spent a good amount of time measuring, cutting the hose, asmbling the whole thing, and my hands are really sensitive--dunno how many layers of dead skin was removed
![]() ![]() has anyone else experienced this and if so, how fast is dtek on replacements? i'm now stuck on my laptop, which has pretty much nothing installed, until i can get a replacement core. after my findings, i shot off an email to dtek last night. hopefully they'll respond soon. [edit] fixed. it seems like the fins of the pro core can soak up a lot of water (externally) which gave the impression of leakage. if you notice the same issues, fill up your rad with water to the barbs and let it dry overnight or longer then do the "shake test." another test suggested was plugging up one barb, attach a tube to the other, place the core and barbs under water, and blow into the tube. you should see air bubbles coming out of the rad, else it might be leak-free.
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Lian Li PC65 / Enermax Thermal Monitor + Rheobus Fioneer 4x DVD-RW (Cendyne) Eheim1250 -> DTek ProCore -> WhiteWater -> Maze4 GPU (in series) AMD XP 1700b+ @ 2.3GHz (11.5x200@1.75v actual) GeForce 4 Ti4200 128MB 512MB DDR PC3200 HyperX 512MB DDR PC3200 TwinX (2x256) Abit NF7-S v2.0 Samsung SyncMaster 900NF Powered by Water Last edited by GenGoku; 07-29-2003 at 03:37 AM. |
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#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: H-town, TX
Posts: 122
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where exactly is your core leaking at? where the barbs are or is one of the channels broken?
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#3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Southern California
Posts: 177
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it's coming out of the channels. barbs are fine.
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Lian Li PC65 / Enermax Thermal Monitor + Rheobus Fioneer 4x DVD-RW (Cendyne) Eheim1250 -> DTek ProCore -> WhiteWater -> Maze4 GPU (in series) AMD XP 1700b+ @ 2.3GHz (11.5x200@1.75v actual) GeForce 4 Ti4200 128MB 512MB DDR PC3200 HyperX 512MB DDR PC3200 TwinX (2x256) Abit NF7-S v2.0 Samsung SyncMaster 900NF Powered by Water |
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#4 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 221
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#5 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Southern California
Posts: 177
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yeah, i read an article that said to use a long screw driver to make an opening for the dtek shroud, so i did that. but i can shake the core and water drips from pretty much everywhere.
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Lian Li PC65 / Enermax Thermal Monitor + Rheobus Fioneer 4x DVD-RW (Cendyne) Eheim1250 -> DTek ProCore -> WhiteWater -> Maze4 GPU (in series) AMD XP 1700b+ @ 2.3GHz (11.5x200@1.75v actual) GeForce 4 Ti4200 128MB 512MB DDR PC3200 HyperX 512MB DDR PC3200 TwinX (2x256) Abit NF7-S v2.0 Samsung SyncMaster 900NF Powered by Water |
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#6 | |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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#7 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Iowa
Posts: 7
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I believe he's referring to THIS page.
I believe the use of a screwdriver was intended to open up a couple fins. Applying pressure would surely cause a leak as per this quote "To install the shroud and fan onto the core, I used a small, blunt rounded tool to open up the fins between the core tubes where the threaded rod will pass through. Avoid brute force to jam the threaded rod through as you could tear a fin from a tube and cause a leak. If you are going to use the threaded rods to fasten the core to the case, don’t rely on a 120mm fan hole pattern to drill the holes in the case." A thing as easy as installing shrouds caused a leak for you.hmm :shrug: |
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#8 |
Big PlayerMaking Big Money
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com
Posts: 4,782
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I wouldn't trust a systemcooling how to on anything other than throwing feces
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#9 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Illinois
Posts: 94
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#10 |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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If it is comming from everywhere then it sounds like it wasn't soldered correctly either from the manufacturer or more likely who ever soldered the barbs in. Probably overheated it and melted the solder holding the top tank together with the channels.
Would be pretty difficult (with any common since what so ever) to damage the channels with the screw driver. And then you should be able to tell for sure that's were it is coming from. |
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#11 |
Big PlayerMaking Big Money
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com
Posts: 4,782
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me? Nah I am best at drinking beer and wasting time playing Diablo2
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#12 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Southern California
Posts: 177
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I called up DTek and was told i'd get a replacement after sending the damaged core via RMA.
for the source of the leak, it didn't seem like only 2 places (ie: where the rods are) since i can shake the core (full while plugging the 2 barbs) and my hand would end up getting wet as well as droplets all over the sink. For the replacement, what would you (everyone) suggest to do when mounting the shroud's rods? hopefully the replacement will get shipped out tomorrow or wed as dtek is also in southern calif too.
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Lian Li PC65 / Enermax Thermal Monitor + Rheobus Fioneer 4x DVD-RW (Cendyne) Eheim1250 -> DTek ProCore -> WhiteWater -> Maze4 GPU (in series) AMD XP 1700b+ @ 2.3GHz (11.5x200@1.75v actual) GeForce 4 Ti4200 128MB 512MB DDR PC3200 HyperX 512MB DDR PC3200 TwinX (2x256) Abit NF7-S v2.0 Samsung SyncMaster 900NF Powered by Water |
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#13 | |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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I read the article:
Quote:
As I posted last week (?), my method was to leave the core untouched, run a zip tie through it to where the head of the zip tie remains pressed against the mount hole (case, shround,etc). Then, clip off the head of another zip tie, and lock the core into place. One of our sponsors (Be Cooling) actually sells round mounting ties: http://www.aquastealth.com/product.asp?0=207&1=238&3=84 Be kind to your core ![]() |
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#14 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Southern California
Posts: 177
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Thanks for the info bigben2k. I'll find some stuff to make a comparable mounting kit from Lowes as $9 shipped is a little steep for me.
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Lian Li PC65 / Enermax Thermal Monitor + Rheobus Fioneer 4x DVD-RW (Cendyne) Eheim1250 -> DTek ProCore -> WhiteWater -> Maze4 GPU (in series) AMD XP 1700b+ @ 2.3GHz (11.5x200@1.75v actual) GeForce 4 Ti4200 128MB 512MB DDR PC3200 HyperX 512MB DDR PC3200 TwinX (2x256) Abit NF7-S v2.0 Samsung SyncMaster 900NF Powered by Water |
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#15 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Illinois
Posts: 94
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GenGoku, I apologize if the image included in the review led to the misunderstanding and subsequent grief you experienced.
In regards to the plastic mounting ties suggested, try an automotive parts store or an auto transmission shop as those fasteners have been used to secure aftermarket transmission coolers to radiators for many years. |
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#16 |
Big PlayerMaking Big Money
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com
Posts: 4,782
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haha oops SCompRacer didn't know you worked for Systemcooling. Iassumed that it was something written by Bob Dyl or Se7en, hence the monkeys flinging feces comments.
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#17 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Southern California
Posts: 177
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and the saga continues
__________________
Lian Li PC65 / Enermax Thermal Monitor + Rheobus Fioneer 4x DVD-RW (Cendyne) Eheim1250 -> DTek ProCore -> WhiteWater -> Maze4 GPU (in series) AMD XP 1700b+ @ 2.3GHz (11.5x200@1.75v actual) GeForce 4 Ti4200 128MB 512MB DDR PC3200 HyperX 512MB DDR PC3200 TwinX (2x256) Abit NF7-S v2.0 Samsung SyncMaster 900NF Powered by Water |
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#18 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dione, sector 4s1256
Posts: 852
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how is this for a much safer, all be it, not as shade-tree a method, of mounting the shroud.
![]() ![]() no poking anything through cores or nothing....
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There is no Spoon.... |
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#19 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Illinois
Posts: 94
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That is a great method of mounting using the tanks Rotor.
![]() I sometimes use aluminum shrouds where the core simply slides in, no fasteners required. Some one side adhesive closed cell foam on the small flanges that retains the core insulates it from rub damage and vibration. |
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#20 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dione, sector 4s1256
Posts: 852
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GenGoku, I see you had the core submerged in that bucket of water, are you positive it is not just water in-between the fins from that, now coming out when you shake the rad.
a sure fire way to test is to completely submerge the rad under water, (in a bathtub or whatever..) then, while having the one inlet sealed off, put some air pressure on the other side, blowing on it should suffice. then see if you can blow bubbles with it... If not, then the droplets you got from shaking, was just trapped water in the fins......
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#21 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Southern California
Posts: 177
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#Rotor, it was exactly that. btw, my water setup is finally complete.
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Lian Li PC65 / Enermax Thermal Monitor + Rheobus Fioneer 4x DVD-RW (Cendyne) Eheim1250 -> DTek ProCore -> WhiteWater -> Maze4 GPU (in series) AMD XP 1700b+ @ 2.3GHz (11.5x200@1.75v actual) GeForce 4 Ti4200 128MB 512MB DDR PC3200 HyperX 512MB DDR PC3200 TwinX (2x256) Abit NF7-S v2.0 Samsung SyncMaster 900NF Powered by Water |
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