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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 30
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I installed the D-Tek WhiteWater today, but it seems like I fried my CPU.
The directions say to secure the mounting rods with the micro nuts. These are the micro metal nuts that are included in the pack. However it seems like the nuts causes the block to not even touch the CPU. I put the nuts on and then the block. The block didn't get any AC3 on it, so I know it wasn't touching, but continued anyway. Now I get the ASUS voice saying "System Failed CPU Test". Here's my WW installation question: What's the currect way to mount this thing. I've got an ASUS P4PE board. Thanks in advance! |
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#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: in my chair
Posts: 574
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hmm..
I think something should have gone off when you noticed the block wasn't touching the cpu. The nuts should have screwed down and forced the block onto the chip. Are you sure you got them in the right order?? No block will work without firmly resting on the chip. I would disassemble the entire cpu, block and nuts. Invite a friend over and have him/her assemble it using the instructions. Don't help them. Just notice how they interpret the directions. If they do the exact same thing, then call DTEK. If they do it different then just find out what they did and see if it was on better. Hope you figure it out. Good luck.
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#3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 30
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To add more info...
I did go back and remove the micro nuts altogether. By then I think it was too late. ![]() |
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#4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Dallas
Posts: 339
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Post a pic of the install - that always helps
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#5 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 221
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A pic of the install would help. |
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#6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: shanghai, china
Posts: 200
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what cpu do you have? because i'm assuming p4, and even if you booted w/o a heatsink it shouldn't have harmed the cpu
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#7 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 30
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Really?!?! So there's hope? I'm going to take everything out and re-seat everything tonight. It can't hurt.
It's a P4 2.4GHz and the board is an ASUS P4PE. |
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#8 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: shanghai, china
Posts: 200
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I'd recomend sticking to air cooling for a little while until you do somemore research on watercooling...
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#9 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Sweden
Posts: 30
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Your saving grace may be the legendary P4 overheat shutoff, which may have prompted the Asus message. Unlike athlon XP's they will know when they get too hot and should shut down.
Put your CPU cooler back on (properly) and try again. If your computer works fine then you can give the whitewater another go. It should be obvious when it's attached properly. Just think it through a bit more. Take your motherboard out of the case so give you more room too look around and make sure everything is OK. remember to start running the watercooling before starting the computer as well. |
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#10 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 30
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trit187 -
Well, I successfully water-cooled an AMD 1.4 a while back. Do you have one of these blocks and installed it correcly? If so, help me out. If not then go away...there's no need to be rude. |
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#11 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 30
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Thanks, Ewan...I'll give it a go this afternoon.
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#12 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 8
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Um, I had the same problem with my WW and Abit IC7 Max3. With the micro nuts on, there was no way in hell the cpu was going to make contact with the block, just a quick side look will reveal that. I did not use the micro nuts at all and just screwed the rods from under the adapter plate up, they screw in pretty tight, and hasn't come lose on me yet, I have done alot of re-mounts too. The directions do say to use them, but IMO are not accurate, there are a couple of flaws with the given P4 adapter instruction sheet.
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#13 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 30
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sbud,
It's good to know it's not just me. When I removed the WB the second time it was a little hard to remove (seemed to stick to the CPU) and possibly unseated the CPU. After this removal is when I'm getting the problem. I'm going to reseat the CPU and remount the block when I get home and post my results. Thanks for the info! Quote:
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#14 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 30
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Got this reply from Danny at D-Tek
------------------------------------------------------------ HI Brian, You should have got an updated version on the instructions. Were they included with your Whitewater? The micro nuts are not needed with the adapter anymore since the studs now self thread into the adapter. If you used the standard nuts on the studs then yes the block would not touch. Thanks for the heads up in case you did not get an updated version of instructions. Thanks, Danny Salandra CEO www.dtekcustoms.com Office: 949-829-0067 Fax: 949-829-0078 |
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#15 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: in my chair
Posts: 574
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I recieved an error like that last time my cpu chip was loose from making full contact. Taking it apart and reassembling does wonders.
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#16 |
c00ling p00n
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: L.A.
Posts: 758
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Also sent via PM:
OK, the metal bracket for the P4 adapter goes like this: The 4 INNER holes are for the long water block bolts. You want the HEAD of the bolt to be on the side where the holes are beveled. You use the MICRONUTS to secure these bolts to the plate. The micronuts will NOT interfere with the block. Once you have the block studs secured to the plate with the micronuts, you then attach the plate to the MOBO with the other provided bolts and nylon nuts. If you DO have the updated plate, the WB bolts will thread directly into the mounting plate in which case NO nuts are required to secure the bolts.
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#17 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: on da case
Posts: 933
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first hand experience; i work at a pc retailer service center and to test a setup quick and dirty i often boot up with no HS installed on a P4, that should at least get you through post and ide detection.
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#18 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Dallas
Posts: 339
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#19 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 30
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Well, I tried reseating the CPU and waterblock, but to no avail. Still getting the "System Failed CPU Test" message.
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#20 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: U.S.A = Michigan
Posts: 1,243
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Was the block tight to the CPU this time without those nuts?
did you try the CPU with your air cooler ? Same results? |
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#21 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 30
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Yes, the block was tight to the CPU, but same problem. Air cooler...same problem.
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#22 |
c00ling p00n
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: L.A.
Posts: 758
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Did you clear the bios?
__________________
*:-.,_,.-:*'``'*:-.,_,.-:*'``'*:-.,_,.-:*'``'*:-.,_,.-:*'``'*:-.,_,.-:* E6700 @ 3.65Ghz / P5W DH Deluxe / 2GB 667 TeamGroup / 1900XTX PC Power & Cooling Turbo 510 Deluxe Mountain Mods U2-UFO Cube Storm G5 --> MP-01 --> PA 120.3 --> 2x DDC Ultras in Series --> Custom Clear Res "Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity." 1,223,460+ Ghz Folding@Home aNonForums *:-.,_,.-:*'``'*:-.,_,.-:*'``'*:-.,_,.-:*'``'*:-.,_,.-:*'``'*:-.,_,.-:* |
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#23 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 30
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Yes using the jumper. Should I take the battery out as well?
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#24 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: in my chair
Posts: 574
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nope.. wont help.
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#25 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: palo alto, CA
Posts: 164
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hmmm P4's as i recall have termal trotteling so you could practically remove the heatsink while in a game, the game will be painfully slow but will run and not fry the CPU.
yes unplug the motherboard take out the CPU and take the bios battary out for 10 mins it might help. |
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