reservoir

siavash_s_s · 01-09-2004, 06:45 PM

what are people making fully contained unleakable reservoirs out of atm? i seriously have no ideas... other than cutting some plexi up and making a square one... which would suck

anything i can make a nice one out of that i could fin din the kitchen etc??

this is vague but im desperate

RedPhoenix · 01-09-2004, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by siavash_s_s

what are people making fully contained unleakable reservoirs out of atm? i seriously have no ideas... other than cutting some plexi up and making a square one... which would suck

anything i can make a nice one out of that i could fin din the kitchen etc??

this is vague but im desperate

Tupperware

Rufus210 · 01-09-2004, 10:11 PM

not sure what you're looking for, but I made one that works quite well out of a tums container

killernoodle · 01-09-2004, 10:35 PM

I think the best ones are made of PVC pipe. They are modular, cheap, can be large, small, internal, external, pretty, ugly, ect.

Mine is made of black 2 1/4" PVC with 2 endcaps. It is internal, wedged between the hard drive cage and the motherboard tray in my chieftec case. The pump is attached directly to the bottom to form a single unit. The inlet to the thing is halfway up and there is a large piece of filter between the inlet and outlet to remove bubbles. PVC can be tapped with a spare fitting cut with a dremel a certain way and can be sealed with most glues.

The fill tube is another barb tapped on the top of the tube with a 1/2" hose leading to the top of the case for a gravity fill.

The system is not restrictive at all and took all of 10 minutes to make and about 6 bucks at lowes.

j3rkoff · 01-09-2004, 10:49 PM

Hehe, I was gonna make mine out of tupperware! I just went w/o one though.

siavash_s_s · 01-10-2004, 03:16 AM

thnx for replies, i was lost for a bit, then i found a white cheese container made of absurdly thick plastic, so thats what im using, just finished sealing it with resin and silicone

that crisis over, im am so stuck on where to put it all (res, hcore) without serious mods... infact im thinking instead of modding the case i can built one out of cedar (that wood is soo classy and smells good too) and 2 or 3 mm thick alumni sheet. if i get to that its gunna be one sexy ass piece of meat

that being in mind can anyone post some links to home made cases (im trying google as i type here too)

thnx all

anjosborne · 01-11-2004, 08:28 PM

i used a 2" pvc "T" it works great and is leak free i had to extend the fill above the level of my radiator though or if i opened it when the system was turned off then it would leak

Rufus210 · 01-12-2004, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anjosborne

i used a 2" pvc "T" it works great and is leak free i had to extend the fill above the level of my radiator though or if i opened it when the system was turned off then it would leak

Is that a pump to the left of your reservoir?? Also you'll probably see a good performance increase if you shroud your radiator fan and/or squeeze a second one on

anjosborne · 01-12-2004, 07:08 PM

yep thats a pump 500gph bilge pump for a boat you would not have to use that though i was looking for a pump that was cheap and this is my first attempt at a wc system seems to work fine though not sure what the life of the pump is but can replace the pump head without having to replace the body of the pump and its only $25 at bass pro shops for the whole pump and like 15 for the replacement
also i plan on shrouding the radiator just havent got to that part yet i am going to build my own water block also when i get the system up and running i'll post more pics should work good enough for me though not trying to break any records just trying to cool my cpu

siavash_s_s · 01-13-2004, 02:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anjosborne

yep thats a pump 500gph bilge pump for a boat you would not have to use that though i was looking for a pump that was cheap and this is my first attempt at a wc system seems to work fine though not sure what the life of the pump is but can replace the pump head without having to replace the body of the pump and its only $25 at bass pro shops for the whole pump and like 15 for the replacement
also i plan on shrouding the radiator just havent got to that part yet i am going to build my own water block also when i get the system up and running i'll post more pics should work good enough for me though not trying to break any records just trying to cool my cpu

using 1 or 2 full stops (.) can help you stay away from the reputation as a crack fiend lol
its like a race reading that comment you posted haha

anjosborne · 01-13-2004, 06:16 AM

ya where do the setences stop and start. lol

Gooserider · 01-13-2004, 08:52 PM

Check specs on that bilge pump - many pumps of that sort are only intended for intermittent duty, if they are run constantly for extended periods they can get hot and melt or otherwise die.

Gooserider

anjosborne · 01-14-2004, 10:12 PM

it is actually for curculating the water in the live wells. So should work just fine for continuous use. I have run it for 24 hours already out on the bench with no problems.

siavash_s_s · 01-15-2004, 04:32 AM

i just thought i should mention that today while making my res/rad holder/box thing
i cut my foot badly.. now it hurts and is bleeding
i got Itchy ass scratches all over my forearms and biceps from cutting alumni sheet with drop/circular/table saws, there is silicone all over my shirt and my foot is really bleeding bdly

word to the wise... put shoes and long sleeves on

siavash_s_s · 01-15-2004, 04:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by siavash_s_s

i just thought i should mention that today while making my res/rad holder/box thing
i cut my foot badly.. now it hurts and is bleeding
i got Itchy ass scratches all over my forearms and biceps from cutting alumni sheet with drop/circular/table saws, there is silicone all over my shirt and my foot is really bleeding bdly

word to the wise... put shoes and long sleeves on

opps forgot to mention all the shavings in my eyes

MMZ_TimeLord · 01-15-2004, 10:04 AM

First off, sorry to hear about your foot... OUCH!

Second... you really need to use safety equipment. Shoes, preferrably heavy work boots are in that catagory, along with safety goggles and gloves.

Third, what kind of blade are you using to try and cut aluminum with? It should be a blade designed for cutting metal NOT wood or plastic. Usually these are for cutting metal and concrete and are an abrasive cutter. (No teeth)

Also, here are my reservior construction pictures. It's made of 1/8th inch acrylic and acrylic tubes. Hope they help you...

Boli · 01-15-2004, 10:39 AM

What did you use to bond it all together?

Butcher · 01-15-2004, 05:48 PM

Cutting oil also helps keep metal shavings from flying about much when cutting sheet metal with power tools.

siavash_s_s · 01-15-2004, 06:28 PM

MMZ, do you know that your a bitch!?

your res looks so much better then mine... mines got resin and silicone all over it... i must make it beat yours!!!

but seriously gj on the res that thing does looke pretty nice, you might wanna put some stainless steel brackets along the edges for the extra style

your comments on the safety go in thru 1 ear and out the other... i dont know why but im the sort of person who doesnt realy mind the hurt... im more comfortable in my brain, not physically ofcourse, with just pants and a shirt lol
(my stupidity)

anyway u goto see the case i made for my res and rad... its indestructible man.
not the very best workmanship ill be the first to say, but thats because the drop saw i used wasnt the best one i had, which was at a work site. it was a really shoddy oooollllldddd makita.

btw i would *love* to see anyone try to cut aluminium with a standard metal cutting blade like grinder blades. its impossible alumni is like dough, itll fill all the gaps in tha blade and it wont work lol.

the best thing for alumni is a fine wood cutting saw sort of thing, not a ripping saw.
preferably one with small teeth, and alot of them
the reason it cut not good is because i didnt have wax.. it disappeared from my garage!!!
*i bet rats ate it*

anyway ill post a few pics of the box later on when i get mah camera back.

btw anyone here know how to *absolutley* make a pexi res look clear. its pretty impossible with sand papare now cos its all together, any chemicals or heat treatments?

thnx alot to everyone who posted

MMZ_TimeLord · 01-15-2004, 07:55 PM

Nuthin but luv for yah Siavash_s_s...

Yeah, I know the problems with gumming up of abrasive blades... some work better than others on Aluminum. I forget which ones now... been WAY too long.

I used Acrylic glue to put together the reservior, so it just bonds to it and dries clear. Usually I just tack it together first... make sure everything is straight and then flow the glue into the gaps... it's like water so it works pretty well. I have thicker stuff, but that's for filling in really bad spots if you ask me.

As for the res looking clear... is it not clear from sanding or scratches? If so and it's open so you can get to the inside... you can use a torch CAREFULLY to "flame lick" the acrylic until it heats just enough to start glazing over. Then remove the heat... I've used that technique to polish up edges of pieces before.

Hope that helps...

Butcher · 01-15-2004, 08:14 PM

Personally, I use a silicon-steel metal cutting blade to cut Al, seems to do the job without gumming up too much.

siavash_s_s · 01-15-2004, 08:33 PM

there is too much silicone everywhere lol
my dad uses windex and is pro at putting silicone in places... i seen him scam customers when he overcuts vanity units around the bowl, and has to fill a 2cm (yes, 2cm) gap with white silicone, and he does it so well u cant tell its not overcut unless you walk up and inspect it, but he wont do it for me cos i goto learn?!

anyway the flame trick isnt bad, but all i have is a heat gun, recon that will work?

yeh i love you too mmz

Butcher · 01-15-2004, 09:50 PM

Silicon isn't the same as silicone. And silicon steel is just a particular grade of tool steel.

MMZ_TimeLord · 01-15-2004, 10:10 PM

That might work... try it on a scrap piece of acrylic... WITH GLOVES ON... Preferrably WELDING GLOVES! or hold it with a pair of LONG pliers or just clamp it in a vice.

siavash_s_s · 01-16-2004, 02:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MMZ_TimeLord

That might work... try it on a scrap piece of acrylic... WITH GLOVES ON... Preferrably WELDING GLOVES! or hold it with a pair of LONG pliers or just clamp it in a vice.

lol i think ill let my fingers do the burning!!

but u know what my latest woaw is...
RESIN DONT HOLD IT TOGETHER!!!

it fell apart...

btw does anyone know if araldite is completely waterproof when dried and set?

im gonna get some acrilic glue stuff tomoz..

btw i found 3 metres of stainless steel reinforced silicone tubing for 23$ australian - how goods that

01-09-2004, 06:45 PM	#1
siavash_s_s Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: here n there Posts: 194	reservoir what are people making fully contained unleakable reservoirs out of atm? i seriously have no ideas... other than cutting some plexi up and making a square one... which would suck anything i can make a nice one out of that i could fin din the kitchen etc?? this is vague but im desperate __________________ buy me a mill

01-09-2004, 10:35 PM	#4
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	I think the best ones are made of PVC pipe. They are modular, cheap, can be large, small, internal, external, pretty, ugly, ect. Mine is made of black 2 1/4" PVC with 2 endcaps. It is internal, wedged between the hard drive cage and the motherboard tray in my chieftec case. The pump is attached directly to the bottom to form a single unit. The inlet to the thing is halfway up and there is a large piece of filter between the inlet and outlet to remove bubbles. PVC can be tapped with a spare fitting cut with a dremel a certain way and can be sealed with most glues. The fill tube is another barb tapped on the top of the tube with a 1/2" hose leading to the top of the case for a gravity fill. The system is not restrictive at all and took all of 10 minutes to make and about 6 bucks at lowes. __________________ I have a nice computer.

01-09-2004, 10:49 PM	#5
j3rkoff Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: AZ Posts: 50	Hehe, I was gonna make mine out of tupperware! I just went w/o one though. __________________ Currently using one large rad, two gallons of coolant, and two 13.5 inch fans to cool my car's engine.

01-10-2004, 03:16 AM	#6
siavash_s_s Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: here n there Posts: 194	thnx for replies, i was lost for a bit, then i found a white cheese container made of absurdly thick plastic, so thats what im using, just finished sealing it with resin and silicone that crisis over, im am so stuck on where to put it all (res, hcore) without serious mods... infact im thinking instead of modding the case i can built one out of cedar (that wood is soo classy and smells good too) and 2 or 3 mm thick alumni sheet. if i get to that its gunna be one sexy ass piece of meat that being in mind can anyone post some links to home made cases (im trying google as i type here too) thnx all __________________ buy me a mill

01-13-2004, 08:52 PM	#12
Gooserider Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: North Billerica, MA, USA Posts: 451	Check specs on that bilge pump - many pumps of that sort are only intended for intermittent duty, if they are run constantly for extended periods they can get hot and melt or otherwise die. Gooserider __________________ Designing system, will have Tyan S2468UGN Dual Athlon MOBO, SCSI HDDS, other goodies. Will run LINUX only. Want to have silent running, minimal fans, and water cooled. Probably not OC'c

01-09-2004, 10:11 PM	#3
Rufus210 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2003 Location: Houston Posts: 15	not sure what you're looking for, but I made one that works quite well out of a tums container

01-11-2004, 08:28 PM	#7
anjosborne Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: St. Cloud Posts: 10	i used a 2" pvc "T" it works great and is leak free i had to extend the fill above the level of my radiator though or if i opened it when the system was turned off then it would leak

01-12-2004, 07:08 PM	#9
anjosborne Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: St. Cloud Posts: 10	yep thats a pump 500gph bilge pump for a boat you would not have to use that though i was looking for a pump that was cheap and this is my first attempt at a wc system seems to work fine though not sure what the life of the pump is but can replace the pump head without having to replace the body of the pump and its only $25 at bass pro shops for the whole pump and like 15 for the replacement also i plan on shrouding the radiator just havent got to that part yet i am going to build my own water block also when i get the system up and running i'll post more pics should work good enough for me though not trying to break any records just trying to cool my cpu

01-13-2004, 06:16 AM	#11
anjosborne Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: St. Cloud Posts: 10	ya where do the setences stop and start. lol

01-14-2004, 10:12 PM	#13
anjosborne Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: St. Cloud Posts: 10	it is actually for curculating the water in the live wells. So should work just fine for continuous use. I have run it for 24 hours already out on the bench with no problems.

01-15-2004, 04:32 AM	#14
siavash_s_s Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: here n there Posts: 194	i just thought i should mention that today while making my res/rad holder/box thing i cut my foot badly.. now it hurts and is bleeding i got Itchy ass scratches all over my forearms and biceps from cutting alumni sheet with drop/circular/table saws, there is silicone all over my shirt and my foot is really bleeding bdly word to the wise... put shoes and long sleeves on __________________ buy me a mill

01-15-2004, 10:04 AM	#16
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	First off, sorry to hear about your foot... OUCH! Second... you really need to use safety equipment. Shoes, preferrably heavy work boots are in that catagory, along with safety goggles and gloves. Third, what kind of blade are you using to try and cut aluminum with? It should be a blade designed for cutting metal NOT wood or plastic. Usually these are for cutting metal and concrete and are an abrasive cutter. (No teeth) Also, here are my reservior construction pictures. It's made of 1/8th inch acrylic and acrylic tubes. Hope they help you... __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

01-15-2004, 10:39 AM	#17
Boli Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Blackburn / Dundee Posts: 451	What did you use to bond it all together? __________________ 1800+ @ 2247 (214x10.5) - STABLE, 512MB PC3700 TwinX Cosair RAM, NF7-S v2.0, GeForce3 Ti200 Parallel BIM, 120.1 Thermochill, Eheim 1048, Maze 3, Maze4 GPU, "Z" chipset, 1/2" tubing, PC-70: 5x120mm & 9x80mm fans. Internet Server & second machine (folding 24/7): 512MB DDR RAM, XP2000+

01-15-2004, 05:48 PM	#18
Butcher Thermophile Join Date: May 2001 Location: UK Posts: 1,064	Cutting oil also helps keep metal shavings from flying about much when cutting sheet metal with power tools.

01-15-2004, 06:28 PM	#19
siavash_s_s Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: here n there Posts: 194	MMZ, do you know that your a bitch!? your res looks so much better then mine... mines got resin and silicone all over it... i must make it beat yours!!! but seriously gj on the res that thing does looke pretty nice, you might wanna put some stainless steel brackets along the edges for the extra style your comments on the safety go in thru 1 ear and out the other... i dont know why but im the sort of person who doesnt realy mind the hurt... im more comfortable in my brain, not physically ofcourse, with just pants and a shirt lol (my stupidity) anyway u goto see the case i made for my res and rad... its indestructible man. not the very best workmanship ill be the first to say, but thats because the drop saw i used wasnt the best one i had, which was at a work site. it was a really shoddy oooollllldddd makita. btw i would love to see anyone try to cut aluminium with a standard metal cutting blade like grinder blades. its impossible alumni is like dough, itll fill all the gaps in tha blade and it wont work lol. the best thing for alumni is a fine wood cutting saw sort of thing, not a ripping saw. preferably one with small teeth, and alot of them the reason it cut not good is because i didnt have wax.. it disappeared from my garage!!! i bet rats ate it anyway ill post a few pics of the box later on when i get mah camera back. btw anyone here know how to absolutley make a pexi res look clear. its pretty impossible with sand papare now cos its all together, any chemicals or heat treatments? thnx alot to everyone who posted __________________ buy me a mill

01-15-2004, 07:55 PM	#20
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	Nuthin but luv for yah Siavash_s_s... Yeah, I know the problems with gumming up of abrasive blades... some work better than others on Aluminum. I forget which ones now... been WAY too long. I used Acrylic glue to put together the reservior, so it just bonds to it and dries clear. Usually I just tack it together first... make sure everything is straight and then flow the glue into the gaps... it's like water so it works pretty well. I have thicker stuff, but that's for filling in really bad spots if you ask me. As for the res looking clear... is it not clear from sanding or scratches? If so and it's open so you can get to the inside... you can use a torch CAREFULLY to "flame lick" the acrylic until it heats just enough to start glazing over. Then remove the heat... I've used that technique to polish up edges of pieces before. Hope that helps... __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

01-15-2004, 08:14 PM	#21
Butcher Thermophile Join Date: May 2001 Location: UK Posts: 1,064	Personally, I use a silicon-steel metal cutting blade to cut Al, seems to do the job without gumming up too much.

01-15-2004, 08:33 PM	#22
siavash_s_s Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: here n there Posts: 194	there is too much silicone everywhere lol my dad uses windex and is pro at putting silicone in places... i seen him scam customers when he overcuts vanity units around the bowl, and has to fill a 2cm (yes, 2cm) gap with white silicone, and he does it so well u cant tell its not overcut unless you walk up and inspect it, but he wont do it for me cos i goto learn?! anyway the flame trick isnt bad, but all i have is a heat gun, recon that will work? yeh i love you too mmz __________________ buy me a mill

01-15-2004, 09:50 PM	#23
Butcher Thermophile Join Date: May 2001 Location: UK Posts: 1,064	Silicon isn't the same as silicone. And silicon steel is just a particular grade of tool steel.

01-15-2004, 10:10 PM	#24
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	That might work... try it on a scrap piece of acrylic... WITH GLOVES ON... Preferrably WELDING GLOVES! or hold it with a pair of LONG pliers or just clamp it in a vice. __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

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