PolarFlo -- CPU SF Block and the VGA/CS Block

[Ewout_vB]

The CPU SF PolarFlo Block



Key Features:
- Anodized top
- Super flat and Super Finished 110 Copper base 0.000050 Flat and 0.5-1.0 Ra Microinch Surface Finish (0.0000005" to 0.000001")
- Incredible cooling performance! SECOND TO NONE!
- High Flow design
- 1 centered water inlet and 2 offset water outlets for maximum flow velocity
- Customizable fittings (combine 1/2" and 3/8" fittings) I am buying custom 1/4" threaded brass fittings that are 1/2" for my pipes at Home Depot for the CPU block and for the other 2 blocks, and I will use different clamps for the hoses.

Key Specifications:
- Dry Weight: 10.9oz Size: 3.25"L x 2.60"W
- Height: 2.43" w/Barbs 1.13" w/o barbs
- Displacement: 5.1 cubic inches

The kit includes:
- (4) Mounting screws
- (4) Washers
- (4) Thumb nuts
- (5) Hose clamps
- (1) Y-hose splitter

Cons - Nylon mounting, I am still looking for something to replace this with spring loaded screws or something like that, if anyone knows how to do this for the SF CPU block from PolarFlo, please lol...

The VGA/CS PolarFlo Blocks



The following models depict the different options you have when ordering a PolarFLO Universal VGA/Chipset water block. Each model has a different arrangement and orientation of the connectors as well as a mounting orientation that applies to VGA boards and Chipsets. The unique universal design gives us the ability to meet your specific needs for VGA and Chipset water cooling. Our water block is completely adaptable for future VGA and Chipset designs. The same technology we engineered into your PolarFLO CPU water blocks is engineered into the new PolarFLO Universal VGA/Chipset water block. This is a fully customizable and comprehensive design.

(I like it comes with a cheap deal I'm getting and it works rather well, however I only found one site that tested the VGA/CS blocks, seemed to be... Okay, as you can see the profile on the blocks isn't superb they say it works best with a good pump, well hopefully I'm getting an Eheim 1250 so I'm good .


What I want to do (look below), please note I'm looking to replace the CPU mounting system to a better way. And I will replace all the plastic barbs with brass ones.



reviews:
http://www.cooltechzone.com/reviews/...lowblock_5.php
http://www.gruntville.com/reviews/wc...o_sf/page5.php
http://www.benscustomcases.com/reviews/pfcpusf/
http://www.virtual-hideout.net/revie...k/index2.shtml

So my point of this thread what do you guys think? Have any experience with these blocks? Please note this is the SF version which is not the pre-SF which were baddddd.

[Gooserider]

No experience with those blocks, but I wouldn't go near them with a 20 foot pole. I do NOT consider any design that mixes aluminum and copper to be acceptable (Sorry Swiftech) putting brass barbs into the Al instead of the plastic that is supplied would make the problem worse since now there would be even more mismatched metal.

Otherwise the design looks like it would work, but it isn't anything special - If you believe their claims about "Incredible cooling performance! SECOND TO NONE!" I have this really nice bridge I'd like to sell you It appears to be a basic dimpled base design that was good when it was first introduced but better designs have long since replaced it as performance king.

These guys make great fertilizer of the male bovine variety, which they have spread liberally through their add, but I wouldn't say the same for their blocks.

[Ewout_vB]

Originally Posted by Gooserider

No experience with those blocks, but I wouldn't go near them with a 20 foot pole. I do NOT consider any design that mixes aluminum and copper to be acceptable (Sorry Swiftech) putting brass barbs into the Al instead of the plastic that is supplied would make the problem worse since now there would be even more mismatched metal.

Otherwise the design looks like it would work, but it isn't anything special - If you believe their claims about "Incredible cooling performance! SECOND TO NONE!" I have this really nice bridge I'd like to sell you It appears to be a basic dimpled base design that was good when it was first introduced but better designs have long since replaced it as performance king.

These guys make great fertilizer of the male bovine variety, which they have spread liberally through their add, but I wouldn't say the same for their blocks.

You can use copper fittings too, anyway the problem REALLY isn't that bad unless you plan to use the block for 7 to 20 years. Plus you are using specialized water that has almost no salts in it, delaying it a bit more, so I could run this block for 8 to 12 years, but I wasn't reallly looking forward to that lol.

BTW I'm not looking for the performance, but according to all the reviews they are pretty much second to none atm...

I would be interested in what you made, just know I'm looking at this 3 block set, because it'll cost me 50 bucks .

PS if you have any information showing the whitewater is better, or the swiftech, since that's pretty much my budget, here you go if you didn't see the gruntville review.



The 3 blocks... WhiteWater then PolarFlo and then the Swiftech block

[Ewout_vB]

Okay I got the blocks, even the VGA/CS blocks were really flat and smooth. Not as reflective as the SF block, but VERY close.

Anyway now I have to start thinking how to put it together...

First I want it to flow from the radiator to my CPU, then since it has 2 exits I was thinking lead 1 1/2ID hose to my Northbridge and the other to my VGA chip, then join them together with a Y split, and let them go to the resovoir as one pipe...

Would this be better then having it go as one... CPU then Northbridge then VGA chip?

[AngryAlpaca]

I usually support parallel, but in your case I'll make an exception. The NB block is probably less restrictive than the GPU block, and, as such, you'll be getting more water through the NB than the GPU, and that makes no sense. The one degree difference between the PolarFLO and the WW at idle and load could easily be an error, as gruntville so helpfully points out. They were also using an unlapped WW, and that would seriously affect performance, but that won't matter if you don't intend to lap.

[Ewout_vB]

Originally Posted by AngryAlpaca

I usually support parallel, but in your case I'll make an exception. The NB block is probably less restrictive than the GPU block, and, as such, you'll be getting more water through the NB than the GPU, and that makes no sense. The one degree difference between the PolarFLO and the WW at idle and load could easily be an error, as gruntville so helpfully points out. They were also using an unlapped WW, and that would seriously affect performance, but that won't matter if you don't intend to lap.

The question is if i make it flow in series wouldn't it flow less? Thus my CPU performance would drop, which is fine. But good point... Neither my GPU or NB are super restrictive.

[killernoodle]

The NB and GPU block are basically the same... actually, they are the exact same. I say go for it, and even if there is a slight difference, it will not matter all that much at all.

[mojo-tim]

It never hurts to experiment. Keep some extra hose around and play with different schemes until you find the one that works best for you. Report back of course...

[Ewout_vB]

Originally Posted by mojo-tim

It never hurts to experiment. Keep some extra hose around and play with different schemes until you find the one that works best for you. Report back of course...

Will do, now I'm looking at radiators, but I'm a bit ... VERY VERY LOW on space.

Either i have no space between the dual radiator and the fans, or very little, or i put the fans or the radiator on top the case... :shrug: .

Does anyone know any places to get the Black Ice Pro II (2) radiator? Since that thing is only 25mm thick versus 45 mm, which just allows me to make the water path without a 90* turn... (either way it would be better than a single radiator)

Because I'm so desperate... I'll ask again, Does anyone know where I can get a Black Ice Pro II (2) Radiator??? It is a dual radiator from HWlabs that's only 25mm thick.

[V12|V12]

TIME FOR TROUBLE!!!!

You know... this is going to be quick but... I'd say, with your budget, I'd go for it, if YOU like... so what if it does perform on par, better or a few (~3C) worse than the WW, or any other top rated block? Oh no! You won't reach the max OC Ghz b/c it's a 3C or so diff? WRONG. Everyone, including LOTS of fanboys and Zealots on this forum are all numbers tight-wads. "OMG this block is .5 C/W better! IT'S THE KING," STFU, who cares? It's NOT going to get you any higher in OC'ing than the chip's max rating would permit anyhow. You may get, Oooh 10mhz closer, so what? I OC for the fun of the hobby, and to see how high I can get the chip within practical means... but it does NOT mean I'm going to go out, spend $100-1000's on CNC-millers and other expensive tools and equipment, just to make a few blocks, then let them (machines) collect dust in the garage. But again, folks around here are going to tell you if it ain't the BEST POSSIBLE EVER, then it's not worth getting, or it's trash etc... yet they all flock to BUYING someone else's design, b/c they don't have enough mental know-how and physical skill to make their OWN designs... The block is a good one, It may or may not be the best, but when you're talking about cooling C/W's in the .16's and below... the CPU, GPU etc.. are going to OC as best as physically allowed, another 1C is NOT going to make any huge damned of a difference... the ONLY real difference maker is Phase-Change cooling, or TEC cooling. Water cooling HAS it's limits, very good performance, but don't be fooled into this finite numbers race, which will only lead to at best, near ambient, which nobody around here is realistically going to come close to, without serious technology advances- not a home based CNC-Milling machine and some Cheap copper stock. Say what you want, I could care less. I built my own block with cheap and readily available tools and it performs quite well considering the $5 in parts I spent to make it. And again... "Oh no, it doesn't perform near a WW (no disrespect to cathar etc.)!" I'll bet you $10000 that my CPU will last JUST as long as with a WW, Dtek, DD, or any other block you can mill out and sell for $50+. (So much for a quick reply! lol)And Finally... I got into water cooling to OC, and for the challenge of building my OWN design and unit. I looked and lurked in forums and found the cost some people were speaking of, as utterly OUTRAGEUOS!? I have to spend near 1/3rd the cost to build this WHOLE box, just to cool it better than air? MY ASS IT DOES! Then it became my mission to build a total unit that could cool my CPU, GPU (if need be) and anything else I decided to add to it for under $70... guess what;

CPU block material = $5 at Home Depot.

Heater Core from Scrap yard = $8

10ft 1/2"+3/4" Vinyl Tubing = $ 10

VIA 1300 370gph Pump = $22 (pro deal special back in 2002)

172mm Rotron Fan = $6

Clamps = $0 from scrapyard laying around or on car parts

Reservoir (optional) from home Depot = $ 5 in parts

Goop + Misc Epoxy = $8

Grand total = $64 WHOA OMG?!

Tools used when building in DORMS of college:

1) Drill

2) Small hack-saw

3) Propane torch & solder

4) Screw driver

5) Misc sand paper

6) Desk-corner POS cheap Vise

7) old 1st generation Dremel

As you can see, there's NO drill press, $1000+ milling machine and other non-essential equipment. And most of that, or all of the listed equipment you SHOULD have around your home, apt, room just in case you need to fix or make something for your car, bike, shoes, plumbing etc... So the cost of those things shouldn't even be added to the final cost... but I will to make a point; WATER COOLING---> WELL, does NOT require much money. ANd I was in a dorm at Ohio State with a very space hogging roommate.

I think it's sad that most people new to water cooling, read all of this info and feel they HAVE to buy a $50+ block... oh and wait, nobody told you? You might not want to get a Used HeaterCore b/c it's potentially filled with loose Calcium deposits and what not? That stuff will CLOG the itty-bitty channels of the blocks and severely impede flow in the channels etc... but I guess people aren't intelligent enough to thoroughly CLEAN out their used Core, and TEST it before fully running it on a hot CPU? DUH? SO, $50+ for a block AND another $30-60 for a shiny New XXX-Extreme-Platinum-HyperTubed- New HeaterCore. $80-110 just for the block and HeaterCore? Insane. Here goes water cooling to the money-race like everything else... Unless you've got big bucks to spend on New stuff and machines, then your water cooling = "Bad, inefficient..." and other negative labels... Bah, **** off! Take your expensive cooling solutions to a web site and sell it to noobs who can easily be mislead and ripped-off... Oh wait many of you HAVE! Good day folks and keep water cooling a hobby, not a high $ sport...

BTW—I KNOW some of my forum adversaries will and would love to post a flame, but logically, what good would it do? I do NOT care for your negative opinions toward MY rant(s). It’s my opinion and personal experience, if ya don’t like it, oh well, then just shake your head, call me an idiot and NOT waste YOUR time replying eh? Good times and drinks folks!

[Ewout_vB]

Originally Posted by V12|V12

TIME FOR TROUBLE!!!!

You know... this is going to be quick but... I'd say, with your budget, I'd go for it, if YOU like... so what if it does perform on par, better or a few (~3C) worse than the WW, or any other top rated block? Oh no! You won't reach the max OC Ghz b/c it's a 3C or so diff? WRONG. Everyone, including LOTS of fanboys and Zealots on this forum are all numbers tight-wads. "OMG this block is .5 C/W better! IT'S THE KING," STFU, who cares? It's NOT going to get you any higher in OC'ing than the chip's max rating would permit anyhow. You may get, Oooh 10mhz closer, so what? I OC for the fun of the hobby, and to see how high I can get the chip within practical means... but it does NOT mean I'm going to go out, spend $100-1000's on CNC-millers and other expensive tools and equipment, just to make a few blocks, then let them (machines) collect dust in the garage. But again, folks around here are going to tell you if it ain't the BEST POSSIBLE EVER, then it's not worth getting, or it's trash etc... yet they all flock to BUYING someone else's design, b/c they don't have enough mental know-how and physical skill to make their OWN designs... The block is a good one, It may or may not be the best, but when you're talking about cooling C/W's in the .16's and below... the CPU, GPU etc.. are going to OC as best as physically allowed, another 1C is NOT going to make any huge damned of a difference... the ONLY real difference maker is Phase-Change cooling, or TEC cooling. Water cooling HAS it's limits, very good performance, but don't be fooled into this finite numbers race, which will only lead to at best, near ambient, which nobody around here is realistically going to come close to, without serious technology advances- not a home based CNC-Milling machine and some Cheap copper stock. Say what you want, I could care less. I built my own block with cheap and readily available tools and it performs quite well considering the $5 in parts I spent to make it. And again... "Oh no, it doesn't perform near a WW (no disrespect to cathar etc.)!" I'll bet you $10000 that my CPU will last JUST as long as with a WW, Dtek, DD, or any other block you can mill out and sell for $50+. (So much for a quick reply! lol)And Finally... I got into water cooling to OC, and for the challenge of building my OWN design and unit. I looked and lurked in forums and found the cost some people were speaking of, as utterly OUTRAGEUOS!? I have to spend near 1/3rd the cost to build this WHOLE box, just to cool it better than air? MY ASS IT DOES! Then it became my mission to build a total unit that could cool my CPU, GPU (if need be) and anything else I decided to add to it for under $70... guess what;

CPU block material = $5 at Home Depot.

Heater Core from Scrap yard = $8

10ft 1/2"+3/4" Vinyl Tubing = $ 10

VIA 1300 370gph Pump = $22 (pro deal special back in 2002)

172mm Rotron Fan = $6

Clamps = $0 from scrapyard laying around or on car parts

Reservoir (optional) from home Depot = $ 5 in parts

Goop + Misc Epoxy = $8

Grand total = $64 WHOA OMG?!

Tools used when building in DORMS of college:

1) Drill

2) Small hack-saw

3) Propane torch & solder

4) Screw driver

5) Misc sand paper

6) Desk-corner POS cheap Vise

7) old 1st generation Dremel

As you can see, there's NO drill press, $1000+ milling machine and other non-essential equipment. And most of that, or all of the listed equipment you SHOULD have around your home, apt, room just in case you need to fix or make something for your car, bike, shoes, plumbing etc... So the cost of those things shouldn't even be added to the final cost... but I will to make a point; WATER COOLING---> WELL, does NOT require much money. ANd I was in a dorm at Ohio State with a very space hogging roommate.

I think it's sad that most people new to water cooling, read all of this info and feel they HAVE to buy a $50+ block... oh and wait, nobody told you? You might not want to get a Used HeaterCore b/c it's potentially filled with loose Calcium deposits and what not? That stuff will CLOG the itty-bitty channels of the blocks and severely impede flow in the channels etc... but I guess people aren't intelligent enough to thoroughly CLEAN out their used Core, and TEST it before fully running it on a hot CPU? DUH? SO, $50+ for a block AND another $30-60 for a shiny New XXX-Extreme-Platinum-HyperTubed- New HeaterCore. $80-110 just for the block and HeaterCore? Insane. Here goes water cooling to the money-race like everything else... Unless you've got big bucks to spend on New stuff and machines, then your water cooling = "Bad, inefficient..." and other negative labels... Bah, **** off! Take your expensive cooling solutions to a web site and sell it to noobs who can easily be mislead and ripped-off... Oh wait many of you HAVE! Good day folks and keep water cooling a hobby, not a high $ sport...

BTW—I KNOW some of my forum adversaries will and would love to post a flame, but logically, what good would it do? I do NOT care for your negative opinions toward MY rant(s). It’s my opinion and personal experience, if ya don’t like it, oh well, then just shake your head, call me an idiot and NOT waste YOUR time replying eh? Good times and drinks folks!

I appreciate your concerns, btw always use Demi-Water, most people do anyway, plus I would not buy it unless they tell me what they have used earlier, the calcium deposits created by demi water are about ... none. Plus I do know what I'm looking at performance, 3 C can make a hell of a difference, if you use dead lines for temperatures, will it in reality no... But I would rather have my CPU max it's heat on full load around 60 degrees than 63. Either way that's too high in my opinion.

[V12|V12]

One note... I'd like to appologize for turning your post into some political rant, but I sometimes feel the need to let cooling frustrations out at those who are the elitest and haughty minded about what actually is "good" cooling... again sorry....

60C and water cooling? Something is VERY wrong if you're getting those temps... Like I said, my home-made block is crap by a machinist's standards, but I've NEVER seen temps past 45C in the summer and the room was darn warm! So you should check the TIM (Thermal Interface Material) and what TIM are you using? What GPH pump will/are you using? Etc, I need details playa! J/K Any how post me some detailed info and maybe I and others can help?! Thanks

[AngryAlpaca]

Well, do you want the best stability, and the best temps? (I know, that was a big point) But anyway, the way you listed sounded time consuming (Well it was to read, I didn't quite finish) and troubling. I know from personal experience that the cheaper it is, the harder it is, or I'm just a screw-up, but buying, with all the choices out there, and the older ones that have had their prices dropped to practically nothing second hand. It may even be cheaper to get a real one, than make your own.

[V12|V12]

Originally Posted by AngryAlpaca

Well, do you want the best stability, and the best temps? (I know, that was a big point) But anyway, the way you listed sounded time consuming (Well it was to read, I didn't quite finish) and troubling. I know from personal experience that the cheaper it is, the harder it is, or I'm just a screw-up, but buying, with all the choices out there, and the older ones that have had their prices dropped to practically nothing second hand. It may even be cheaper to get a real one, than make your own.

Tell me, what is so hard about;

1) Buying a 1-1/2" copper end cap and brass/copper plate for the top, and 2 brass nipples

2) Drilling dimples in the base, like the polar-flow or #rotor style

3) Measuring out the correct mounting holes and drilling them with a hand drill

4) Drilling holes in the Top for the Brass nipples

5) Rough sanding or wire brushing the places to be brazed

6) Assembling the block and coating necessary areas with flux

7) Firing up torch, heating metals, applying solder.

8) Cleaning off braze and wet/dry polishing cooled block to a nice gleam

9) Connecting hoses and testing for leaks

10 and finally, installing block and off to cooling?

Literally that is ALL that needs to be done. It really doesn't get anymore simple than that... unless you want to try what I did for my 1st block, which is, instead of using copper for the cap, I used PVC, 2 brass nips, some GOOP adhesive and the same dimpled base plate... that's the EASIEST way and it works... Happy cooling

[Ewout_vB]

Originally Posted by V12|V12

One note... I'd like to appologize for turning your post into some political rant, but I sometimes feel the need to let cooling frustrations out at those who are the elitest and haughty minded about what actually is "good" cooling... again sorry....

60C and water cooling? Something is VERY wrong if you're getting those temps... Like I said, my home-made block is crap by a machinist's standards, but I've NEVER seen temps past 45C in the summer and the room was darn warm! So you should check the TIM (Thermal Interface Material) and what TIM are you using? What GPH pump will/are you using? Etc, I need details playa! J/K Any how post me some detailed info and maybe I and others can help?! Thanks

Lol look at the p4 thermal design sheets from Intel... You can find it at intel.com you can calculate the amount of heat in watts comming from the CPU, although I won't get that far in OCing since my p4's multiplier is locked (damnit) you can get to the limit that you can only transfer so much to the water from the copper. But I won't get above... I hope 42C if i calculated it right... But I'll report my results and everything later... First I have to buy the radiator, fan control, some 120mm fans, a bigger case, and some heatsinks, and mem clips.

[V12|V12]

Sounds like you've got some serious shopping to do! You know, if you've got old Pentium heatsinks and what not... they make PERFECT IC/chipset HS's (HeatSinks)! I actually think that intel purposely designed them in future hopes that a mighty AMD user would honor them by incoroprating them in my Nforce system as momento! HAHA j/k Yeah get the BEST TIM you can get, that saves time and frustration with trying to squeeze out more efficiency from pump/flow configs... good luck!

[Ewout_vB]

Originally Posted by V12|V12

Sounds like you've got some serious shopping to do! You know, if you've got old Pentium heatsinks and what not... they make PERFECT IC/chipset HS's (HeatSinks)! I actually think that intel purposely designed them in future hopes that a mighty AMD user would honor them by incoroprating them in my Nforce system as momento! HAHA j/k Yeah get the BEST TIM you can get, that saves time and frustration with trying to squeeze out more efficiency from pump/flow configs... good luck!

Woot i got my radiator, now I need a finish or grills for the top of my case, ramsinks, 120mm fans, fancontroller, and heatspreaders... That's about it

[Ewout_vB]

I bought a new case, the Chieftec Matrix server sized, in carbon black. And I got my PolarFLO blocks shipped in yesterday, very nice quality. Not one scratch I can find. I also got the fan controller. Now i need to buy a ton of heatsinks, including: Ramsinks for my 9800 pro (8), heatsinks for my mobo chips (bunch), heatspreaders... (might run without for a while), and 120mm fans, i found a cheap deal 5 bucks for expensive 120mm quiet delta fans. So... Then I can show you guys the results.

[rocketmanx]

(I sit smiling at the comp reading V12's initial reply)

Glad to see some practical thinking there V12
Nice to see someone else still has there head back in the real world

If you're 5C above room, how much further do Ya think you're gonna get with water-only anyway.

After saying that I still play around with my system conastantly but that's the part I find fun

BTW- nice to see Ya double A

[Ewout_vB]

I got my fan control, my dual radiator, my new Chieftec Server sized Matrix case (VERY nice), and all i need now are some fans, tubing, and water additives and ofcourse a resovoir.

[pauldenton]

Originally Posted by Ewout_vB

The CPU SF PolarFlo Block
So my point of this thread what do you guys think? Have any experience with these blocks? Please note this is the SF version which is not the pre-SF which were baddddd.

thought the name rang a bell - both the swiftech and polarflo were reviewed by joe at overclockers.com (on what seems like a much more accurate setup, since the gruntville one relies on motherboard temps...)
from the summary the swiftech appears to beat the polarflo hands down....at 1GPM it has lower flow resistance and lower C/W

[Ewout_vB]

Originally Posted by pauldenton

thought the name rang a bell - both the swiftech and polarflo were reviewed by joe at overclockers.com (on what seems like a much more accurate setup, since the gruntville one relies on motherboard temps...)
from the summary the swiftech appears to beat the polarflo hands down....at 1GPM it has lower flow resistance and lower C/W

According to all real try outs with temp testing and performance testing, the PolarFLO beat swiftech senseless though...

[pauldenton]

Originally Posted by Ewout_vB

According to all real try outs with temp testing and performance testing, the PolarFLO beat swiftech senseless though...

hmm - cooltechzone tested the polarflo SF and the swiftech, but with a koolance exos (1/4" ID - 1 L/m with the stock waterblock) - way below what either of them need iirc .ambient temp is not noted - or measured? when they were run overnight...

benscustom tested it against it's predecessor - which it outperformed by a couple of degrees.....

virtual hideout tested the original polarflo only...

BillA tested the original, the swiftech and also the whitewater - which wins hands down unless an extremely weak pump were to be used when the swiftech matches it...


all a bit academic for you since you've already made your choice....

it'll be interesting to see how it all performs when you get your system up and running...

[AngryAlpaca]

That isn't an SF PolarFLO. The PolarFLO does beat most blocks out there, and it's around the same performance as an unlapped White Water, according to crappy testing... I PERSONALLY would advise buying a WW, and lapping it do a decent finish... Those dtek finishes are deplorable!

[Ewout_vB]

Originally Posted by AngryAlpaca

That isn't an SF PolarFLO. The PolarFLO does beat most blocks out there, and it's around the same performance as an unlapped White Water, according to crappy testing... I PERSONALLY would advise buying a WW, and lapping it do a decent finish... Those dtek finishes are deplorable!

According to the PolarFLO salesperson, the results increased UP TO 30 percent... That is not the SF version, that is the old version of the PolarFLO block.