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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 86
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hi, reservoirs are very expensive for what they are made of. i've seen them as cheap as $25 and as much as $80. i find that crazy for a tube and 2 outlets. but that's just my general thinking of things. i always break them down to something simple although they might not be. so i'm thinking about making my own out of acrylic. like pour the acrylic into a mold and hollow it out and put to barbs in there and then make a cap for it. is that all a reservoir is? i haven't started on watercooling yet. but i've pretty much decided what i want for my mobile Athlon XP 2600+. i want a hyrdor L30 pump, maze4 cpu block, chevy pickup single pass heatercore, and some panaflo 120mm fans. i figure thats a very cost effective (cheap) set up that will get me decent cooling. well all i need. i'd like to save money where i can, i already have some acrylic and something that i can cast a rectangular reservoir in. so has anyone made their own? any specs, layouts, parts, pieces? thanks!
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#2 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 81
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![]() Last edited by alexwai; 03-17-2004 at 05:42 AM. Reason: Change the spelling |
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#3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: North Vancouver BC
Posts: 234
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I made a res. out of acrylic sheet quite easily, and it looks pretty good. I cut 6 pieces out of a big sheet of acrylic, drilled two holes in one of the sides, tapped(threaded) the holes, glued the 6 sheets together, screwed in hose barbs and presto - done.
Total Cost(CAD): Acrylic: 5-10 3/8" NPT Tap: 13 Acrylic Solvent: 8 Barbs: 5 ============ ~$35CAD = 25-30 USD And that's including the tap(for making the threads) and the glue - the cost of the tiny amount of glue I used is probably 10 cents, and I've used the $13 tap for 15-20 holes so ~1.30 for the tap usage and you're looking at 10USD for materials and a couple more bucks for tools if you use them for a couple projects. [EDIT: I excluded tools I assume everyone has like a 37/64 drill bit a hacksaw, and some sandpaper for making sure those edges are super-square]
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#4 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 81
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#5 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: North Vancouver BC
Posts: 234
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"mooooo" said the cow. ERTW - UBC P4 2.4B @3.01Ghz 167FSB :: Abit IC7 :: 2x256MB HyperX PC3700 :: ASUS 9600XT :: WD Raptor 2x36GB RAID0 |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Posts: 217
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my res is custom made. acrilyc here too.
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#7 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 229
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Yes, I make my own reservoirs as well. I prefer not to use Plexiglas (acrylic) as it can easily crack and may be attacked by some additives (Water Wetter in particular).
Details can be found here... http://www.overclockers.com/tips1089/ |
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#8 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Brussels - Belgium
Posts: 232
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here
Quote:
My truly conviction is that the best solution is something between a reservoir and a T-line, this is why I made my "airtrap". See here. CD ![]()
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#9 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 81
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#10 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 112
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Yes after time you get an odd effect on acrylic when using water, this has GENERALLY nothing to do with additives. But that's just a fact, replace it after 2 to 3 years, you shouldn't have this probablem before that. The problem with acrylic resovoirs is the bad manufacturing (too much stress causes it to crack or other mistakes in the design / production) and teflon tapes, that generally causes leaks. |
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#11 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 86
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well actually, i was thinking now, that i can just buy one of these Nalgene bottles at school and put 2 barbs in them. they're basically made out of a material like Lexan. it's almost unshatterable. we've dropped them off the 3rd floor of our dorms (filled w/ water) and it didn't crack or anything. if i could be careful and drill it and put in some barbs, i think that would make a great, cheap reservoir and they come in great colors as well.
Turbokeu, that's almost exactly along the lines of i what i wanted to make. how much did it cost you for parts? and i'm assuming you mount that w/ the pipe fittings facing down correct? great idea. Last edited by kaotic504; 03-17-2004 at 09:43 PM. |
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#12 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 229
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I am guessing (until I can get confirmation) that the Di and Tri Isopropyl Alcohol Ethers that are used in Water Wetter to increase the boiling point and suppress the freezing point of water may be leaching out the plastisizers in the acrylic plastic over time. |
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#13 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 229
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#14 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Brussels - Belgium
Posts: 232
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My airtrap costs me about 15US$ on parts. In an early stage of my project: ![]() ![]() CD ![]()
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#15 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 112
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Hey i recognize that PC from your website! I like your work ![]() Yes I am sure Water Wetter does damage the resovoirs, some people said distilled water did, that's not true either. Water over time does though... |
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#16 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Washington DC
Posts: 28
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Best thing to catch the bubbles is to rout the water through the bottle though. |
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#17 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: london, england
Posts: 416
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i presume you mean a bulkhead fitting.... presumably these need a flat surface? |
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#18 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Washington DC
Posts: 28
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#19 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: West Palm Beach
Posts: 230
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Robotech: That looks like a methlab..
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#20 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: london, england
Posts: 416
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#21 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: West Palm Beach
Posts: 230
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I think i'm gonna do a absolute res but cut the bottle in half @ a laser shop and adhere it to the side of a case and call the case Absolute zero =)
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#22 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: atlanta
Posts: 28
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why a flat survace? wont be easy, but you could seal it with siliconewont be the first time someone put a sealed fitting on a curved surface.
not talking a sharp curve or nothing. I would definitly be EXTREMELY careful, and proceed to test it for a few weeks to see if any leaks develop. pressurizing it a bit would be good too to give it a stress test. |
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#23 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az
Posts: 1,264
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I used a 2in diamter clear PVC tube with end caps. I drilled two holes, added barbs and that was that. Cost me about 8 bucks.
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#24 |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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See my sig: easy stuff!
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#25 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: atlanta
Posts: 28
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curious, but I dont really feel like remaking my resevior after 2-3years. what else can you use besides acrylic plexiglass?
lexan someone said? is this good? where do you get sheets of lexan? also, what do you use to seal the sides together? silicone sealant? anything specific? on a more difficult question. Im thinking complicated. I want the top to be sealed but removable. so Im thinking if I had half inch walls, I could drill a hole, and set a threaded plug into them. then put a gasket around the top, and use thumb screws to screw the top down onto the box... just an idea, any thoughts? |
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