Got my Tygon in and it works! - Page 2

sunblade · 05-16-2002, 08:59 AM

I got some Tygon, also, the 1/2 - 5/8OD (grr, thin walls). The problems I'm having with it is that the memory isn't that good. After sitting on the barbs for a while, the ends enlarge and won't shrink back, so little leaks appear if the tubing is re-fit on the barbs (using hose clamps, too). Would thicker walls help this? I've been thinking of just going back to 3/8 - 5/8OD silicone because it can stretch back to it's original shape (well, it has some memory, but not like what I've seen with tygon).

Cyco-Dude · 05-16-2002, 09:24 AM

what formulation tubing are you using? i doubt a thicker wall would help.....

anyhow, about how flexible is your tubing? in between silicone and vinyl?? just wondering....

UpAllNight · 05-16-2002, 09:34 AM

well from my experence with tygon 5/8 od i have it on a 5/8 barb with no problems and no clamp...i even have it on a 1/2 plastic t with no clamps...it seems to stick to the plastic barbs better than the brass...u cant hardly get it back off the plastic barbs...i agree that the memory isnt as good as the silicon but i love the way it looks

just got my tygon 3606(i dont know if the # is right or not its the lab grade) in with 1/8 walls and it sure will bend in alot smaller rads than the 5/8 od stuff...but im worried about getting it over a 5/8 plastic barb

Jim · 05-16-2002, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by deeznuts
hmm, eheim 1250 doesn't need the impeller mod.

Yep you are right deeznuts, I found that out after I did it to my Eheim. No damage but no gain either.
jim

deeznuts · 05-16-2002, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jim

Yep you are right deeznuts, I found that out after I did it to my Eheim. No damage but no gain either.
jim

wait a minute, how did you do it? when i said it doesn't need it, i mean it doesn't need it - the impeller doesn't move at all. so are you saying you just glued it to the shaft anyway? there was no slack on mine, but i guess i could see how you could glue it.

Jim · 05-16-2002, 01:56 PM

No didn't glue it to the shaft, I glued the impeller to the larger part that rotates, the magnet I believe. No good to glue to the ceramic shaft.

Does this make sense to you?
JIm

deeznuts · 05-16-2002, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jim
No didn't glue it to the shaft, I glued the impeller to the larger part that rotates, the magnet I believe. No good to glue to the ceramic shaft.

Does this make sense to you?
JIm

yes, that's what i meant, i got the terminology wrong. so you glued it to that? i didn't bother, i just checked to see if it moved, and it didn't, so i left it. but i guess it worked ok, it probably does help a bit.

Jim · 05-16-2002, 04:25 PM

Deez-
You did the right thing, the Eheim did not need to be glued.
Jim

sunblade · 05-16-2002, 04:58 PM

I have the 3603 formula tubing, too. It does kink a lot, more so than the silicone, but that's due to the thin walls. I also love how it looks, crystal clear, but I'll prolly go back to silicone after my experience with Tygon. To each their own, I suppose. Besides, Danger Den is having a 20% discount on 10' or more purchases of silicone, yay.

sunblade · 05-16-2002, 05:38 PM

Whoa, update...

Well, I took a look at the 90-degree fitting that was leaking ever so slowly, and upon inspection I found that it has a slightly textured surface on the barb, but also a crease down the center on the top and bottom. Sooo, the fitting might be what's causing the leaks by raising the tubing up slightly and letting water through. All my other fittings are different in design, too. I'll try replacing the culprit with a different style of fitting and see what happens.

dantheman · 05-16-2002, 06:16 PM

None of my fittings are leaking at all. They are all holding water quite nicely at this point in time. I coudln't get the impeller and the magnet apart, so I splurged and got a new one for 7 bucks.

Came out of my mini-z fund.

Hellion_Prime · 05-16-2002, 06:41 PM

I have some of the thinwall and thickwall tygon, and I must say, I much prefer the thick wall stuff. They both look good, but the thinwall will kink at the drop of a hat.

--HP

05-16-2002, 09:34 AM	#28
UpAllNight Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: HILLBILLY LAND Posts: 159	well from my experence with tygon 5/8 od i have it on a 5/8 barb with no problems and no clamp...i even have it on a 1/2 plastic t with no clamps...it seems to stick to the plastic barbs better than the brass...u cant hardly get it back off the plastic barbs...i agree that the memory isnt as good as the silicon but i love the way it looks just got my tygon 3606(i dont know if the # is right or not its the lab grade) in with 1/8 walls and it sure will bend in alot smaller rads than the 5/8 od stuff...but im worried about getting it over a 5/8 plastic barb __________________ XP1800 @172x10.5 Maze 3..Ehiem 1250..Chevette Rad 1 120mm panaflo @7v 1" shroud All fits nicely inside my case ambient(74 F) 2.0v Core(33.5) Loaded idle(31.5c) Enermax 431 watt Antec 1030B Gainward Geforce 3 TI200 241/548 Sony CDRW Creative 52x CD Soundblaster Live

05-16-2002, 06:41 PM	#37
Hellion_Prime Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Arlington, MA, US Posts: 90	I have some of the thinwall and thickwall tygon, and I must say, I much prefer the thick wall stuff. They both look good, but the thinwall will kink at the drop of a hat. --HP __________________ That which does not kill me had BETTER do enough damage to keep me from firing back!

05-16-2002, 08:59 AM	#26
sunblade Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: USA Posts: 156	I got some Tygon, also, the 1/2 - 5/8OD (grr, thin walls). The problems I'm having with it is that the memory isn't that good. After sitting on the barbs for a while, the ends enlarge and won't shrink back, so little leaks appear if the tubing is re-fit on the barbs (using hose clamps, too). Would thicker walls help this? I've been thinking of just going back to 3/8 - 5/8OD silicone because it can stretch back to it's original shape (well, it has some memory, but not like what I've seen with tygon).

05-16-2002, 09:24 AM	#27
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	what formulation tubing are you using? i doubt a thicker wall would help..... anyhow, about how flexible is your tubing? in between silicone and vinyl?? just wondering....

05-16-2002, 01:56 PM	#31
Jim Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Illinois Posts: 389	No didn't glue it to the shaft, I glued the impeller to the larger part that rotates, the magnet I believe. No good to glue to the ceramic shaft. Does this make sense to you? JIm

05-16-2002, 04:25 PM	#33
Jim Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Illinois Posts: 389	Deez- You did the right thing, the Eheim did not need to be glued. Jim

05-16-2002, 04:58 PM	#34
sunblade Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: USA Posts: 156	I have the 3603 formula tubing, too. It does kink a lot, more so than the silicone, but that's due to the thin walls. I also love how it looks, crystal clear, but I'll prolly go back to silicone after my experience with Tygon. To each their own, I suppose. Besides, Danger Den is having a 20% discount on 10' or more purchases of silicone, yay.

05-16-2002, 05:38 PM	#35
sunblade Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: USA Posts: 156	Whoa, update... Well, I took a look at the 90-degree fitting that was leaking ever so slowly, and upon inspection I found that it has a slightly textured surface on the barb, but also a crease down the center on the top and bottom. Sooo, the fitting might be what's causing the leaks by raising the tubing up slightly and letting water through. All my other fittings are different in design, too. I'll try replacing the culprit with a different style of fitting and see what happens.

05-16-2002, 06:16 PM	#36
dantheman Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 152	None of my fittings are leaking at all. They are all holding water quite nicely at this point in time. I coudln't get the impeller and the magnet apart, so I splurged and got a new one for 7 bucks. Came out of my mini-z fund.

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