My new watercooling setup - comments..?

007 · 09-09-2002, 06:26 PM

Here's a few pics of my new watercooling setup, which consists of:
EpoX 8K3A+, 768MB TwinMos PC2700 RAM, unlocket XP1800+, Seagate Barracuda ATA IV 80GB, GF2 MX200, DD Maze2, Eheim 1048, 12mm vinyl tubing (gonna replace that with silicone tubing), Blackice Rad, resevoir from a model airplane and Chieftech big tower:

The Front:

Front Open: Fanbus and drives:

The Goodies Inside ;-)

The Radiator 'fanduct' made by me ;-). It's completely seperated from other heatsources, keeping the water and the inside cool:

Pump and the suspension making it totally quiet, drives and MB:

Rear of the rad and exhaust fans (today i've siliconed the rad to the duct, so that all airflow goes through the rad - don't know if it has improved anything, but it can't hurt

And finally the exhaustfans from inside (they are running, so my Mavica digi-cam must have pretty good close-time ;-)

Comments/suggestions are welcome, if you want specific pictures of anything, or explanations, please write me or here in the forums:
It's running pretty smooth at 1838MHz (10,5*175 and 2,00V) temps are:
idle: 41C and load 46C - using the XP diode (i think, no one seems to know where to find a program, that can tell me whether it uses the diode or the in-socket thermister (spelled right?

).
Any ideas how to get i higher? and do you think it's safe to up the volt's to 2.2?

BTW: the temp. on the front is the waterblock temp, measured on top of the block

gmat · 09-10-2002, 05:58 AM

I like the suspended 1250

Those fans are full of dust man... A good cleaning won't hurt

Ah and this backside cut would be wayyy nicer with some trim...
Oh why is the PSU not horizontal ? Looks weird...
Have fun.

g.l.amour · 09-10-2002, 09:33 AM

it looks a bit like my case, inexperienced, cutting too much away with a dremel... trial and error stuff. i was thinking myself of buying a new case and mounting all my stuff again so i have learned from my previous errors.

honestly, looking at the front it looks tidy, but as gmat points out; digging on the inside and the back reveals some imperfections. looks like from the practical point u got a good cooling setup, and for some of us that is more important than the beauty contests.

but euh, tell us what u think of it yourself, stuff u would do differently and such.

cheers

SCompRacer · 09-10-2002, 01:30 PM

I did something similar in my first water cooled case 007, except I had the radiator at the top and the fan mounted on the outside of the rear panel drawing air through the radiator. The angled baffle had foam on the edges to seal against the case sides. I cut the old panel out above the PS since it originally held two 80mm fans. I made a new plate from aluminum to cover the hole for a 120mm fan.

You can get a thin piece of metal and install it over your cut out area on the rear of case. Just mark and cut holes for your radiator and power supply, screw or rivet it to rear of case. That will give your PS some support.

If I understand correctly, you are blowing air through the radiator rather than drawing air through it. Otherwise you would pick up heated air from the PS. I tape my sensor to the top of the CPU touching the core.

nikhsub1 · 09-10-2002, 01:54 PM

The 8K3A/+ uses the on CPU diode with an XP CPU.

Kevin · 09-10-2002, 02:20 PM

hehe yeah that it is a pretty dusty fan setup there and the hose is a lil brownish looking, but AWESOME job with the radiator shrouding and suspended pump mount!
-Kevin

SCompRacer · 09-10-2002, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by nikhsub1
The 8K3A/+ uses the on CPU diode with an XP CPU.

It was in response to his "BTW: the temp. on the front is the waterblock temp, measured on top of the block."

007 · 09-11-2002, 03:39 PM

Thanks for all the nice words. Yesterday i tried upping the volts to 2.2 - shouldn't have done that - fried the MB and possibly the CPU

No matter what i try, it won't boot - the led-diosplay on the MB wouldn't show any codes, and the PSU just powers the fan down after a fwe seconds... tried it with the incase PSU - it won't do anything at all - not even power up. i have an extra 250W - it powers up the PSU only, and the RPMK on the fan falls as it was going idle). the 12V line showed 13,5 just before i died - think that's the explanation...
any advices?

I have a MSI KIT266 Pro2 RU lying around, gonna put that in tonight, and se if it's gonna boot... I also have a spear locked XP1700 - gonna put that in too, to see if the MSI will boot with that, to se if the CPU is fried... other than that, things are fine here in Denmark... (very upset about trying the 2.2V!!!)

BTW: i know about the back - it's UGLY

gonna fix that with some sheet-metal i have lying around - should be nice and clean... and yes - it is the first WC setup, i've made with alle the stuff inside the case (was getting pretty tired of not being able to move it around...). and the fanbus on the front - gonna make a new plate and align them all - it's just difficult, because the front won't close, if they aren't in exactly the right place...

gmat · 09-11-2002, 03:51 PM

Sounds like the 12V line blew up. Overload, maybe.
That's why overclocking is an extreme sports

- the risk.
There are PSU's around with overload + overtemp shutoff protection. They are expensive but such is the price for peace of mind (and health of components)

g.l.amour · 09-12-2002, 02:16 AM

i don't get it, if i up the vcore too much from PSU point of view, then my pc will start to crash randomly (i think). back off the vcore and i'm okay again. my PSU is a 250W model (think i get first prize for the lightest PSU on this board) and whenever i go over 1.8V , it seems like it can't take that.

i was once able to blow up mobo and proc, but that was by letting the WB sit loosely on proc, until after 5 sec i smelled a nice processor roast. i will not smoke weed anymore before doing infrastructural work on my computer.

gmat · 09-12-2002, 04:11 AM

The PSU output is transformed and regulated on the mobo itself to feed the CPU.
It's pumping the 5V and 12V lines - thats why modding the vcore will stress those lines.
The 12V line is commonly sollicited to power modern CPUs and GPUs, because transporting high currents with 12V is way more efficient than doing so with 5V.
Thats why by modding the vcore *directly* to 2.2 he may have produced a fatal overload, which is fatal with an unprotected PSU.

g.l.amour · 09-12-2002, 07:56 AM

thx

pHaestus · 09-12-2002, 11:05 AM

Quote:

i will not smoke weed anymore before doing infrastructural work on my computer. [/b]

If Canadia really legalizes, this warning should be on every baggie

hmale · 09-12-2002, 02:27 PM

Often times the most overlooked component in any system is the PSU. It is just not sexy enough for some of us to pay attention to.

For better or for worse the "enthusiast"...overclockers and such need to pay very special attention to the PSU. PSUs with sufficient power, good line regulation, and safety mechanisms will more than pay for themselves in the long run.

Cheers!

pHaestus · 09-12-2002, 03:50 PM

For the price, I thinkthat the 400W Sparkle PSU is hard to beat. It has a LOUD fan in it by default however, and can benefit from substitution of a thermally controlled 80mm fan.

I have found cases where improved PSU resulted in 100MHz higher overclocks, but I have similarly seen cases where RAM upgrades solved the problem. So YMMV.

bigben2k · 09-12-2002, 04:04 PM

I started another thread in the hardware section, about using a couple of 300W to make a 600W PSU. Post your comments!

{clicky} Go to the thread

09-09-2002, 06:26 PM	#1
007 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2002 Location: Denmark Posts: 31	My new watercooling setup - comments..? Here's a few pics of my new watercooling setup, which consists of: EpoX 8K3A+, 768MB TwinMos PC2700 RAM, unlocket XP1800+, Seagate Barracuda ATA IV 80GB, GF2 MX200, DD Maze2, Eheim 1048, 12mm vinyl tubing (gonna replace that with silicone tubing), Blackice Rad, resevoir from a model airplane and Chieftech big tower: The Front: Front Open: Fanbus and drives: The Goodies Inside ;-) The Radiator 'fanduct' made by me ;-). It's completely seperated from other heatsources, keeping the water and the inside cool: Pump and the suspension making it totally quiet, drives and MB: Rear of the rad and exhaust fans (today i've siliconed the rad to the duct, so that all airflow goes through the rad - don't know if it has improved anything, but it can't hurt And finally the exhaustfans from inside (they are running, so my Mavica digi-cam must have pretty good close-time ;-) Comments/suggestions are welcome, if you want specific pictures of anything, or explanations, please write me or here in the forums: It's running pretty smooth at 1838MHz (10,5*175 and 2,00V) temps are: idle: 41C and load 46C - using the XP diode (i think, no one seems to know where to find a program, that can tell me whether it uses the diode or the in-socket thermister (spelled right? ). Any ideas how to get i higher? and do you think it's safe to up the volt's to 2.2? BTW: the temp. on the front is the waterblock temp, measured on top of the block

09-10-2002, 01:54 PM	#5
nikhsub1 c00ling p00n Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: L.A. Posts: 758	The 8K3A/+ uses the on CPU diode with an XP CPU. __________________ :-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-: E6700 @ 3.65Ghz / P5W DH Deluxe / 2GB 667 TeamGroup / 1900XTX PC Power & Cooling Turbo 510 Deluxe Mountain Mods U2-UFO Cube Storm G5 --> MP-01 --> PA 120.3 --> 2x DDC Ultras in Series --> Custom Clear Res "Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity." 1,223,460+ Ghz Folding@Home aNonForums :-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:

09-10-2002, 02:20 PM	#6
Kevin Slacking more than your weird uncle Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: San Diego, CA (UCSD) / Los Angeles, CA (home) Posts: 1,605	hehe yeah that it is a pretty dusty fan setup there and the hose is a lil brownish looking, but AWESOME job with the radiator shrouding and suspended pump mount! -Kevin __________________ I used to throw hot coffee all over the ass of the horse there, then whip him while he was kickin' at me. Those f***in things are crazy.

09-11-2002, 03:39 PM	#8
007 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2002 Location: Denmark Posts: 31	Thanks for all the nice words. Yesterday i tried upping the volts to 2.2 - shouldn't have done that - fried the MB and possibly the CPU No matter what i try, it won't boot - the led-diosplay on the MB wouldn't show any codes, and the PSU just powers the fan down after a fwe seconds... tried it with the incase PSU - it won't do anything at all - not even power up. i have an extra 250W - it powers up the PSU only, and the RPMK on the fan falls as it was going idle). the 12V line showed 13,5 just before i died - think that's the explanation... any advices? I have a MSI KIT266 Pro2 RU lying around, gonna put that in tonight, and se if it's gonna boot... I also have a spear locked XP1700 - gonna put that in too, to see if the MSI will boot with that, to se if the CPU is fried... other than that, things are fine here in Denmark... (very upset about trying the 2.2V!!!) BTW: i know about the back - it's UGLY gonna fix that with some sheet-metal i have lying around - should be nice and clean... and yes - it is the first WC setup, i've made with alle the stuff inside the case (was getting pretty tired of not being able to move it around...). and the fanbus on the front - gonna make a new plate and align them all - it's just difficult, because the front won't close, if they aren't in exactly the right place... __________________ AMD XP1700@2400MHz (1.925Vcore (11x200), 1.5GB DDR3200, Epox 8RDA3+, Seagate Barracuda IV 80GB, Seagate 7200.2 120GB, Seagate 7200.2 160GB, WW ClearTop (CPU) Twinplex GF4 (GPU) w/ 2x120mm on heatercore from Accord '92 and Eheim 1048. To be further upgraded! (RAID 5, HD/PSU/NB cooling etc.)

09-12-2002, 04:04 PM	#16
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I started another thread in the hardware section, about using a couple of 300W to make a 600W PSU. Post your comments! {clicky} Go to the thread __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

09-10-2002, 05:58 AM	#2
gmat Thermophile Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: France Posts: 1,221	I like the suspended 1250 Those fans are full of dust man... A good cleaning won't hurt Ah and this backside cut would be wayyy nicer with some trim... Oh why is the PSU not horizontal ? Looks weird... Have fun.

09-10-2002, 09:33 AM	#3
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	it looks a bit like my case, inexperienced, cutting too much away with a dremel... trial and error stuff. i was thinking myself of buying a new case and mounting all my stuff again so i have learned from my previous errors. honestly, looking at the front it looks tidy, but as gmat points out; digging on the inside and the back reveals some imperfections. looks like from the practical point u got a good cooling setup, and for some of us that is more important than the beauty contests. but euh, tell us what u think of it yourself, stuff u would do differently and such. cheers

09-10-2002, 01:30 PM	#4
SCompRacer Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Illinois Posts: 94	I did something similar in my first water cooled case 007, except I had the radiator at the top and the fan mounted on the outside of the rear panel drawing air through the radiator. The angled baffle had foam on the edges to seal against the case sides. I cut the old panel out above the PS since it originally held two 80mm fans. I made a new plate from aluminum to cover the hole for a 120mm fan. You can get a thin piece of metal and install it over your cut out area on the rear of case. Just mark and cut holes for your radiator and power supply, screw or rivet it to rear of case. That will give your PS some support. If I understand correctly, you are blowing air through the radiator rather than drawing air through it. Otherwise you would pick up heated air from the PS. I tape my sensor to the top of the CPU touching the core.

09-11-2002, 03:51 PM	#9
gmat Thermophile Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: France Posts: 1,221	Sounds like the 12V line blew up. Overload, maybe. That's why overclocking is an extreme sports - the risk. There are PSU's around with overload + overtemp shutoff protection. They are expensive but such is the price for peace of mind (and health of components)

09-12-2002, 02:16 AM	#10
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	i don't get it, if i up the vcore too much from PSU point of view, then my pc will start to crash randomly (i think). back off the vcore and i'm okay again. my PSU is a 250W model (think i get first prize for the lightest PSU on this board) and whenever i go over 1.8V , it seems like it can't take that. i was once able to blow up mobo and proc, but that was by letting the WB sit loosely on proc, until after 5 sec i smelled a nice processor roast. i will not smoke weed anymore before doing infrastructural work on my computer.

09-12-2002, 04:11 AM	#11
gmat Thermophile Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: France Posts: 1,221	The PSU output is transformed and regulated on the mobo itself to feed the CPU. It's pumping the 5V and 12V lines - thats why modding the vcore will stress those lines. The 12V line is commonly sollicited to power modern CPUs and GPUs, because transporting high currents with 12V is way more efficient than doing so with 5V. Thats why by modding the vcore directly to 2.2 he may have produced a fatal overload, which is fatal with an unprotected PSU.

09-12-2002, 07:56 AM	#12
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	thx

09-12-2002, 02:27 PM	#14
hmale Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: MIami, Florida Posts: 169	Often times the most overlooked component in any system is the PSU. It is just not sexy enough for some of us to pay attention to. For better or for worse the "enthusiast"...overclockers and such need to pay very special attention to the PSU. PSUs with sufficient power, good line regulation, and safety mechanisms will more than pay for themselves in the long run. Cheers!

09-12-2002, 03:50 PM	#15
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	For the price, I thinkthat the 400W Sparkle PSU is hard to beat. It has a LOUD fan in it by default however, and can benefit from substitution of a thermally controlled 80mm fan. I have found cases where improved PSU resulted in 100MHz higher overclocks, but I have similarly seen cases where RAM upgrades solved the problem. So YMMV.

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