swiftech WARRANTY

[pHaestus]

I seriously doubt some kid added lye or scratched block at store. Far more likely that those are just the first spots to expose bare metal and that with inadequate corrosion inhibitor you quickly get problems. I am using antifreeze in all my wced boxes regardless of mixed metal wbs or not. It's better to lose 1C than to hassle with water wetter residue IMO.

[smm2k]

hi nOv1c3
just curious but I was wondering are you using de-ionized water not just distilled water (could not find water specs in your posts)

Also you could use a sacrificial anode in your res, that would absorb the corrosion, so the blocks stay cleaner for longer time.

My uncle uses sacraficial anodes on marine crafts due to saltwater corrosion.

[Gooserider]

smm2k:
hi nOv1c3 just curious but I was wondering are you using de-ionized water not just distilled water (could not find water specs in your posts)

Doesn't matter which, de-ionized water doesn't stay that way, as soon as it comes in contact with metals it starts picking up ions again. BTW as long as the distilled water isn't put in contact with metal, it is effectively deionized by the process of distilling. DI water is just easier to produce, but the DI process doesn't remove non-polar organic contaminants, distilled water gets rid of all the contaminants.

Also you could use a sacrificial anode in your res, that would absorb the corrosion, so the blocks stay cleaner for longer time.

Doesn't work that well, sorry. Also be careful what you use, as the wrong anode material will make the problem WORSE...

My uncle uses sacraficial anodes on marine crafts due to saltwater corrosion.

Note that the environments are TOTALLY different - both in terms of the metals involved and the chemistry of the solvent. The standard anode in the marine world is zinc, but in a mixed Cu / Al WC environment the zinc will attack the Al even worse, rather than protecting it. As I recall, if you are gullible enough to use mixed metals in a WC system, and want to use an anode, the best thing to use is Magnesium, but even with that it doesn't work that well.

Gooserider

[smm2k]

wow gooserider,
you gave me a whole bunch of things to rethink for my xmas setup. Thanks for the info you saved me a few $$$ and some potential headaches.

I feel bad a could not help out nOv1c3 with any solutions though.

[pHaestus]

Antifreeze works in sufficient concentration. Bill suggests 25%

[BillA]

actually it is the domestic automobile mfgrs who make that recommendation
25% for corrosion protection

[Blackeagle]

Bill,

I have no experiance with the new Swifty anti-corrosive product.

What is the mix ratio for use of this anti-corrosive they are marketing?

Thanks

[BillA]

a 2oz container with 1 liter of water
bleh, nice units eh ?

interestingly we were told by a customer that it is also uv reactive
not something we're much into

[Blackeagle]

Thanks for the info Bill! One bottle should do for me then.

[Gooserider]

smm2k: wow gooserider, you gave me a whole bunch of things to rethink for my xmas setup. Thanks for the info you saved me a few $$$ and some potential headaches.

Glad to help out, I feel it is only fair that I help others in return for the help that I've gotten...

That said, my personal recipe includes (among other things)

1. Single pass, automotive heater core rad.

2. DON'T mix metals more than absolutely necessary - (i.e. brass & copper are OK, and so is the solder that fastens them together.) Al and Cu should not be mixed. (I would not even consider a Swiftech block because of their mixed metal composition) Since the rad in #1 is Cu / brass, don't use Al parts.

3. Before starting up the system, give it Airspirit's infamous "*sol enema" treatment.

4. Use distilled (not deionized) water, as the mixer. for Airspirit's coolant formula.

5. Use Tygon or other good quality hose. Put hoseclamps or at least tie wraps on EVERY hose / barb connection.

Gooserider

[nOv1c3]

Originally posted by unregistered
it is difficult to transfer info to someone who is unable to understand what is being said

this statement:
"Even if i was using plain tap water that corrosion should not of been as bad as it is unless there was a breech in the protective coating of the block"
-> is wrong

do yourself a favor, buy 2 more of these wbs and run them with tap water

report back with your 'findings'
(or you could cheat a little and just post the same images)
for you will have the same results

what we have is a 'expert' teener who wants to blame somerone else,
and an old sob telling him to shove it (for the last time)
carry on

Oh i see your back to your old tactics of petty insults ..you a sad little man :/

No need to do a test i already know what the results would be and so do you so stop your bullshit ....

For a fact because i had it apart before i put it in the loop that the second block anodizing was scratch on the intake and outtake so the first one may of been the same way ....


But what we have here is an enployee of swiftech so i,m not suprised at all on his stance

I know anodizing is not the cure all for corrosion but if you think less than a month is acceptable wear level on your anodizing ....sorry thats some shit anodizing work

(for the last time)
F*ck you bill ....carry on

[Tulatin]

Novic, don't be a prick, you're ruining the potential and value of this thread. Now, by my understanding, it's 2 oz to 1 litre yes? That means that 1 oz to about 250-400 ml should handle it correct? Now, for the record - i have run a Swiftech MCW5000P on a TT aquarius Kit - copper rad for four months solid now, almost all on TT's coolant ( i started hydrx recently, and yes, it is mildly uv reactive, as tested with uv cathodes). There is currently no corrosion that i know of, but i still have to crack open the block.

[nOv1c3]

Originally posted by Tulatin
Novic, don't be a prick, you're ruining the potential and value of this thread. Now, by my understanding, it's 2 oz to 1 litre yes? That means that 1 oz to about 250-400 ml should handle it correct? Now, for the record - i have run a Swiftech MCW5000P on a TT aquarius Kit - copper rad for four months solid now, almost all on TT's coolant ( i started hydrx recently, and yes, it is mildly uv reactive, as tested with uv cathodes). There is currently no corrosion that i know of, but i still have to crack open the block.

Who the f#ck are you,to sit there and call me a prick you little F#ck who the h#ll are you to call me a prick ?? ..I,m not ruining the potential and value of this thread ...Its quite the opposite (billa) is by ignoring and denying the facts ....before even knowing the full facks ....


Brfore talking your shit ReRead the full thread and maybe you understand it ..


Like they say a picture is worth a thousand words

[ralf_c]

drop that tone mate i can see why you are upset but that kind of reply might get you banned.

[joemac]

Why would he get banned? It's ok as long as you don't spell out the word right? He is frustrated and venting as any consumer would be after being told by a representative of the manufacture that its all is fault, etc. Really this did not have to get out of control all he did was inquired about a warranty. A simple replacement using the receipt as proof of date purchased should have been enough. My older style of installing my blocks gave some not all people problem. So I look for a solutions for the ones that had and took care of them first etc..

[ralf_c]

didn't mean to defend the swiftech guy at all. to the contrary i totally agree with you joemac, but novic3's reply isn't professional at all, he should have to stoop to that level like that. it only makes him look bad.

well, i guess you can't expect a total stranger to receive you with open arms after you've called a pr!ck

[Joe]

I dunno i am still stuck on what a "Fack" is. I would like to know all the Fack's if you are offering a course!

[Tulatin]

Who the f#ck are you,to sit there and call me a prick you little F#ck who the h#ll are you to call me a prick ?? ..I,m not ruining the potential and value of this thread ...Its quite the opposite (billa) is by ignoring and denying the facts ....before even knowing the full facks ....


Brfore talking your shit ReRead the full thread and maybe you understand it ..


Like they say a picture is worth a thousand words

Well, somebody is having PMS today. I read the thread. The damages are likely your OWN FAULT. Use distilled and some anti-corrosion stuff, and low and behold, a year later not one speck of corrosion. Now, if you open you block and see a scratch in the anodizing, then you're justfied, but otherwise, can it. It's your own fault.

[Archmage]

Let's see here...

The water will flow in a specific pattern as created by the flow of the system and the design of the block. Thus exposure to corrosive elements (I suppose the water contaminants) will not be uniform - the exposure will be of a certain pattern dicatated by the factors stated above. Bill mentioned "turbulence" - I suppose this can be equated to the "exposure" I'm talking about.

This Novice character is getting a certain pattern (pattern is described above) is he not (Are you not?) - Yes - and to say that 1 month is ridiculous - well think about the volume of water that can flow in a whole month (even if the system isn't on all the time). Gradually the effects worsen. 1 month can be a long time in this respect.

Regardless of the presence of a scratch, I think the same pattern would develop. I do not think swiftech anodizing is shitty or whatever; I believe they produce excellent work in terms of the workmanship or whatever the hell that is called.

*Another note: I think BillA, while an expert, comes off as a bit abrasive at times. Maybe he won't want to work on that cuz then it'd take the fun out of it...so that's understandable. But I'll do my best not to piss him off because eventually I'll want to rape his thermal testing procedures/knowledge from him...or uhh...learn uhh...

Uhm - if I'm wrong in my interpretation of what Bill has said...and of my own intuition...then spank me or something eh? blah...I have math/physics+lab/writing work to do now...damnit...procrastinating is much worse in college...I'm still pulling it off somehow.

[Tulatin]

Arch-> you make a VERY valid point there. Let's imagine flow on a 150 gph pump here, for some reason pumping exactly 150 gph. Now, in a full 24 hours of continual use, 3600 Gallons Blast through that block. Wow. Now, imagine a week, 25200 Gallons Pass through. And in your average month, that block will have recieved about 108,000 Gallons of water. WOW. So, with that kinda flow, corrosion is to be expected on naked or damaged material.

[RickCain]

unregistered
AKA BillA - Beware hes grumpy

^ fanboy squared.